Which bow design to make???????

[Canoe]

Howdy S.S,

I've made a few Red Oak Board Bows for hunting.  And, I've just reread the TBB-1. 
Your question was about a 2-1/2" wide and 62" long bow.  I'd say it's a bit short - it could be done, but you'll get some stacking.

What is recommended in the TBB-1 is a length of 64" to 67", and a width of about 1-7/8".  But, go ahead and try 66" by 1-3/4".  Keep that width until about 13" from the tips where you begin your taper to 1/2".  This is a stiff handle design.  So, you'll have to glue on a riser, that's no real challenge.  (If you decide to go this rout, I'll walk you through the glue-up if you want.  A good glue line / surface can be obtained by following a good glue-up procedure.  I've never had a riser pop off for me.)

The TBB-1 is a real good read, and there is a section on stiff handle design - check it out.  Also, Jawge's web site is a very valuable, informative guide.  It has a number of Build-Alongs.

Good luck,
Canoe



     

[Aries]

I posted the bow i was talkin bout with the 1/3/4 fades at 67" long. the topic is  called       new red oak (pics)   Ty

[southern shooter]

I have looked at some of ya'll's creations.  WOW!!  Beautiful pieces of work. 

I have several 3/4" X 1 1/2" X 72" red oak boards that I plan to fashion according to Jawge's plans.  Then I want to pursue some of the others ya'll have made.

There is something I like about the Pyramid style bow.  Not sure what it is.  But, I would like one.  Since I have the board that is already 2 1/2" wide I might save it for such a plan.  If I fashion it close to its full length then I would have room to pike it if need be...as has been mentioned.

Eventually, I would like a stout bow that I can drag through the woods and swamps of Louisiana.  That is why I was thinking of a rugged, shorter bow with some strength behind it.

Anyway, if I go with a pyramid bow what kind of draw weight is realistic given the type of wood and its dimensions?

Thanks 

[Aries]

the bow i posted took about 1/1/2 of set with 55 lbs. which really isnt too bad cause it still has the speed. if you made a bow that was wider than mine with similar weight you could expect it to be even faster because it would have more wood(more mass) to compinsate for the set and would have a higher earlier draw weight. so... you can make a great 55 lb bow if you make it like like round 2" i would say with the same length. or make it longer(72") with the 1/3/4  at the fades. im about to experiment with a 1/1/2 x 72" long and 1/8 tips at 55lbs. i anticipate 1/1/2 to 2" of set but it might turn out pretty dang fast due to the needle tips... (hopefully ) ill be posting it and its comparable speed when it is finished. Ty

[George Tsoukalas]

One last try. LOL.Make a bend in the handle bow.  Wide bows are tougher to tiller. Adding handles creates difficulties and makes tillering difficult. Handles pop off unless they are put on correctly. When you tiller the handle needs to eventually sit on top of the board and the taper of the handle must extend into the board. Jawge

[southern shooter]

Ok, Jawge.   I will do a bend in the handle bow.  I have a board already set aside for the project.  Also, I have read through your site and printed of the articles for me to study.  Let us see what happens.  I will save the wide board for later.

Thanks.....   

[George Tsoukalas]

Good for you. I think you have increased your chances for success. Jawge

[Canoe]

Howdy S. S.,

Yes, I'm sure you can't go wrong with advise from Jawge.  Get a few well tillered bows under your belt, and then you can do pretty much anything you want. 

(But, don't ignore the stiff handled ALB for a huntin' bow )

Good Luck, post pic.s,
Canoe

[southern shooter]

Canoe, what is a stiff handled ALB?

Jawge, in building a board bow bend-in-the-handle longbow, am I aiming for an elliptical tiller or circular tiller?

Thanks

[George Tsoukalas]

The board bow buildalong shows an elliptical tiller. That is what I recommend. If you look at the bow in that buildalong you'll see the handle barely bends. Cuts down on kick. Now you can modify the width to 1 3/8 for 45-50#. Please note there is no narrowed handle. No glue on pieces. The handle is the widest part. Yes, this is intended as a first bow. But I must say that when I pick up a board that's all I build and I've built a lot of board bows. Bend in the handle bows are actually very paleo. They've taken more game over the millennia than ANY other bow or compound. Jawge

[southern shooter]

Thanks Jawge...and, just so I am clear...this is the one that DOES NOT have the 4" stiff section in the handle area?  The lines for tillering the belly meet in the middle and run out to the tips? 

Thanks

(this is not what I am looking for...correct?)


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[Canoe]

Howdy S. S.,

A "stiff handled ALB" is the bow I described earlier.  ALB is "American Long Bow."  The ALB is different from the ELB (English Long Bow) in that an American white wood (oak, ash, Hickory...) is used which requires a wider bow than the traditional ELB made of yew.

For the type of bow you are building, there are a few Build-Alongs that have pictures and guides - look for then in the Build-Along section of this site.

Here is a real nice Build-Along, but it's for a stiff handled bow, check it out anyway...   

http://poorfolkbows.com/oak.htm

Good Luck,
Canoe