Limb Length?

[tradrick]

I finally got around to finish backing my bow.Right now its roughed out,handle shaped,and backed.Now I'm getting ready to cut my nocks in.The bow is 72'' ttt.After cutting the nocks that would 70''ntn.For a better balanced bow should I make the top limb 1 1/2'' longer?I plan on cutting in a arrow shelf and I shoot 3 under.My draw length is roughly 27''.This is a redoak board backed with sheetrock tape.When measuring for the longer limb should I be measuring from the fades or from the center of the handle?Thanks tradrick

[Pat B]

Whether your bow is symmetrical or asymmetrical doesn't matter. What does matter is that it is tillered properly for it's use. If you shoot with a 3 under grip, that should be a consideration before you tiller and not an after thought. You should also tiller for the bows length, the shooter's draw length and the desired weight. Piking should be done as a last resort and not a goal.
 

[Kenny H]

I think thats a really good question. I was wondering that myself. I recently changed over on one of my bows to shooting three under. I don't understand really how you would tiller it different. would the nock point and shelf location determine if the bow should be shot three under or split? Do most of you guys tiller your bows with a longer top limb? I tried to tiller mine with a little bit of pos. tiller to make up for this because I didn't know. My self bow cannot be shot three under. Why is that?

[artcher1]

Personally, I can't think of one good reason to make one limb longer than the other. But that 's getting the cart before the horse. First and foremost consideration in handle layout is your grip. Or type of grip (straight/high, medium or low wrist) you'll be using. That alone determines arrow pass placement (distant above dimensional center).

Shooting three fingers under negates the upward pressure needed for split fingers thus taking pressure off of the lower limb. Eliminating the need for positive tiller. But it's still wise to have just a little for insurance. 

My self bow cannot be shot three under. Why is that?

 Where is your arrow pass in relation to the bow's dimensional center?

ART B

[Kenny H]

I cut a shelf one inch above center of the bow.

[artcher1]

What type of grip were you using? Does the bow balance (on your finger) also at dimensional center?


One inch above center requires you to use a rather straight wrist grip to balance out both limbs using split fingers. So shooting three under would allow you a grip somewhere between a straight to medium I'm guestimating.

ART B 

[tradrick]

The 1 1/2'' longer top limb came from Deam Torges video.Suppose to make it balance better in your hand when shooting.But this probably more for a split finger shooter.I have heard doing a even tiller for three fingers under before,I guess I just forgot about that one.Will my 27''draw be ok on a bow that is 70'' ntn.I'm going for a real longbow.Something that  draws smooth and is forgiving.The arrow shelf will be cut in about 3/8''not all the way to center.The grip I'm thinking of shaping similar to a Howard Hill style.Thanks for your help.Tradrick

[artcher1]

Dean likes the bulbous handle and in its own rights it has some merits. For one it allows the limbs to work clear through the fades and into the handle.  Makes for a comfortable grip also. But when you shoot that type handle with a low contact grip you really don't have much of a choice except to make the upper limb longer. Problem with that is it really screws up equal limb mass which is one of the culprits of hand shock. Think in terms of equal limb mass, equal limb strain and proper hand grip per arrow pass design.

Your bow length is fine for your draw length.  I'm not big on cutting a shelf even close to center, although I do cut in shelves into many of my bow.  But I try to leave enough wood in the handle as if adding onto a 3/4" wide handle.  A handle 3/4" wide by 1 1/2" deep will handle most anything thrown out it.

ART B