Crack on belly

[Postman]

This belly crack appeared as i was attempting to reflex a limb a weeee bit more with the heat gun.... It's about 5 inches from the bottom  nock on a 58" NTN bow. Filled it with superglue, then added more to the entire area when it dried.  I think the crack is only in the outer  growth ring that comes to a point to the right of the crack. Was thinking I could wrap,(probably dental floss or sinew? ) Finish the tiller and shoot away..... Bow has been shot a bit before the limb was re - reflexed.  The good news is the reflex took nicely.

Also, I was wondering if y'all building Torges' "HOB Style" have noticed assymetrical limbs tending to develop hinges a few inches outta the fades on the lower limbs late in the tiller proccess, even with concerted efforts to make the limb stronger there. (that's why i was trying to get more reflex)

Whaddaya think?
John

Oh - those cut trees..... Anybody near Shen. County VA need some hickory or oak? or just firewood? Power company came thru and cut and de-limbed TONS on the nat'l forest by me... come and get it! I'll help ya load! you can drive a truck right up to it.





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[n2everythg]

I think that one is prob fine and you wont have any issues. Never know til you try tho.
Doesnt look very deep. prob on one growth ring.

I had a black locust do that on me. used super glue and then wrapped in sinew just to be sure.
been shooting it for 2 yrs with no issues.
wade

[Gordon]

If the crack is a result of heating then it's probably not an issue. If you don't like how it looks just put a thread wrap around it and another on the other limb for artistic balance.

I build all my bows with asymetrical limbs and have not seen the hinging problem you describe. Are you sure you're not taking off too much wood near the fades?

[Postman]

I tried to "sneak up' on the fades and tips, and it kinda sprung in early shoot - in. My other 2 osage efforts were similar - probably need to do a grid behind to make sure i'm keeping the bottom limb stiffer than i "see" ....
 Bow is only  about 45# @ 27" but it's a gift for a nephew who has never shot bows at all, so that's probably a good thing, startin' him out low.

[Gordon]

I don't rely solely on how the arch of the limbs look to my eyes until the late stages of tillering. That's because a bow's shape can change substantially as it approaches final tiller (paricularly with high tension woods like vine maple). Instead I run my fingers along the back and belly to make sure that the taper is correct and even. As I get closer to target weight I use my eyes more and more to detect flat spots. It's hard to end up with a hinge if you use this method.