elm stave advice- how to prep and season?

[richpierce]

I found 3 elm saplings at our local park where the township stacks trees they cut so folks can use them for firewood.  They run about 2.5-4" in diameter and are reasonably straight, relatively few knots etc.  I peeled the bark (tough work as they had been sitting a while) and underneath were small worm diggings, right at the inner bark/sapwood border.

First order of business is how to season elm, as I have never worked it for a bow.  I split a lot of it for firewood- tough work.
Seal the ends?  Split the saplings now (will cut them with circular saw in half if I must)?  Seal the backs or not likely to check?

thanks,
rp

[Hillbilly]

I would split them now, if you try to leave them round, they will split themselves as they dry-better for you to control where they split. I woud seal the back (and ends) on any summer cut wood. Elm isn't that bad to check, but I had an unsealed summer-cut elm stave check really badly once.

[Pat B]

Just be sure the wood was recently cut. It doesn't take long for fungi to invade whitewoods especially.
  I haven't used elm much so others will have to give you more info about it.     Pat

[JackCrafty]

I've used elm (cedar elm) that grows here in Texas....cut in the spring.  I remove the bark the same day, split into staves (much easier when green), seal the ends with wood glue.  The next day I rough out the bows and steam bend/straighten if needed. Then set them aside to dry.

I've not had a problem with checking.....and elm dries fairly quickly.  I think the tech sheets on kiln drying state that elm can stand up to higher than average temps during the drying process.

The worm problem gets pretty bad on some logs...so you might want to steam the staves (to kill hidden worms) even if you don't plan on bending them.

[richpierce]

Thanks, guys, will get at splitting and sealing tonight.