Yew long bow - knots issue

[freke]

Hi,
Started a new yew longbow build, it comes from a short log that I split and spliced. Target is ELB style, 70-74" +#50@28",  with of bow stave is now 35-40mm now and wider at the knots, thickness is about 35 mm.

The issue is that both limb has knots relatively close to the ends that I do not know how they looks inside the stave (yet), and I feel not that experienced with yew and I have come out underweight before when I dodge knots.

I have add a couple of pictures one from each side, the pen marks shows roughly 30 mm, they are roughly located 7-8" from each end.

If anyone could tell how I best approach this, gut feeling says take down the thickness but in what step should Ii go and what should II look for and what to avoid?

Thanks,
Jonas

[superdav95]

i would work around the knots a bit to clean up and see what you got before doing the splice.  if most of the edge knots get removed during narowing up and still look workable then i would continue.  best of luck that is some knarly looking yew there. 

[Hamish]

For a 50lber in yew, I wouldn't go more than 28mm wide, unless its really light thick ringed yew, then 32mm for an ELB( I have made 55-60lbers from 1" wide fine ringed yew).

Rough the stave down to 35-40mm like you have marked out, that should still give you plenty of meat to reassess the knots, and how they run. Then rework down to 28-32mm wide depending upon the quality of the stave,
My personal approach with any knots regardless of the species, is to leave extra wood around the width at that point., and the depth too when roughing out.

Now many people just shave it off flat down to the layout line, right through the knot and still get good shooting bows. Then they fill any hole with a dutch plug. Some people do the same thing but end up with firewood. Regardless yew seems to tolerate a little more grain violation, and pins than most other bow woods, but push it too far and it still breaks.

[Hamish]

I downloaded and enlarged your photos; ring count looks fairly low so I would go with 32mm or so wide. For the knots near the tips I would shave them off square, as these are going to get tapered in width a lot by the time you get to floor tillering.

[freke]

Superdave, the bow s already spliced.

Hamish, Its indeed fast grown yew ( I build upon what I found ), I will aim for 32 mm then at start.

 I have work knots before but this looks more difficult than usual as they are on opposed sided ( and I feel uncomfortable with yew, judging how thick wood I need ) and I need to go around or enlarge, good thing is that they are closer to the tips so it can be in the more narrow stiff area

[Del the cat]

Yeah, as people have already advised, just leave a little extra width. At 8" from the tips You'll only be about 20mm wide (and a bit thinner) anyway, and the knots may have disappeared.
Just proceed slowly. A clean back is the important thing, you can always plug or patch the belly .
The knots presumably come out from the centre of the branch, so may well disappear off the belly (see sketch)
I think you'll be ok.
Del

[freke]

I have work the stave this weekend and one side with the knot that concerned me most turned out pretty nice, much as Del guessed.  I have also taken down the sides so it is about 33-34 mm most of the length except closer to tips where it drops  some, thickness is about the same ( little thicker in at mid).

Remaining is the other side where I am not sure how to deal with or at least not decide, it had two relatively big knots sticking out sideways and one smaller raised on top. The bigger two have I now reduce and don't think will give me any issue but the raised knot is left to deal with, and leaving me with two options, either remove it or keep it work aground it - advice how should I think here?

The knot is about 7-8" from the potential nock if bow ends up 70"-73", and about 40mm leaving about 25 mm to the where it raise up. Initially I was thinking about keeping the raised knot but  now am I not so sure.
With a draw of about 28" what is an optimal length of an ELB at 50#, splice is about 4" ( not to forget it will not bend in handle)?

Thanks,
Jonas

[Hamish]

You're in a good range at 70-73" for a 28"draw, stiff handle, elb. Leave it full length it will give you a little bit to play with if it turns out lighter than intended.

What I would do is draw the width of the limbs of the bow on some plywood or paper, and take measurements. Transfer these to the stave along the centreline and it will show you exactly how much wood you need. You might even avoid most of the knots.

Are you using a longer upper limb, or equal length? There are many variations for an ELB, eg straight taper from the handle to the tips;  or width of the handle, and 4" either side of the handle then tapers to 3/4" , 8" away from the tip, then down to 5/8-1/2 at the tip.

The 2nd variation is better for limb stability, to prevent twisting on the side plane.

[freke]

You're in a good range at 70-73" for a 28"draw, stiff handle, elb. Leave it full length it will give you a little bit to play with if it turns out lighter than intended.

What I would do is draw the width of the limbs of the bow on some plywood or paper, and take measurements. Transfer these to the stave along the centerline and it will show you exactly how much wood you need. You might even avoid most of the knots.

Are you using a longer upper limb, or equal length? There are many variations for an ELB, eg straight taper from the handle to the tips;  or width of the handle, and 4" either side of the handle then tapers to 3/4" , 8" away from the tip, then down to 5/8-1/2 at the tip.

The 2nd variation is better for limb stability, to prevent twisting on the side plane.

Thanks Hamish, I was consider an inch longer upper, then follow the second of yours suggested layouts.