Design check - working handle paddle bow from California Bay Laurel

[Wingit]

Hey all, first post!

I'm working on a shorter and relatively narrow stave of Bay Laurel (SG .57). I want to get a decent draw length out of it, so I'm making it working handle. However, I want the grip to be relatively narrow for comfort; a paddle bow fits the bill. I've attached grainy photos of the roughed out back and side profiles.

It's 54in nock to nock, with a 1.25x4in handle section sweeping to a widest point of 1.75in a third of the way down the limb. Then it pyramid tapers to 3/8in nocks.

How would you guys tackle the tiller? I'm assuming elliptical until the widest point, and circular thereafter (with slightly stiff tips for string angle). This is my 30th overall, but my first paddle bow and my first working handle bow. Foreign territory.

I wanted to get 45 at 26, but that seems unreasonable with the dimensions the stave granted me. Maybe 45 at 25?

[Pat B]

Welcome to PA.  Are you planning to sinew back this bow? With the over all length and your intended draw length I think it would be a good idea. I'm not familiar with Cali Bay Laurel.

[Wingit]

I've never sinew backed before, and I'm afraid I haven't got access to any. I'm considering rawhide, but I might want to heat treat it first if I go down that route.

Bay is a meh wood. I heat treated a 66 unbacked flatbow, 1.75 at midlimb, and it blew in tension.

[bassman211]

I just finished a ground blind bow for my son. It is 44lbs at 27.5 inch draw, and has 3 inches of reflex, and 54 inches long. It is a clean piece of Osage though with sinew backing, and snake skin over the  sinew. I know nothing of the wood you are using, but I would also back it with sinew if you want a longer draw bow from a meh wood. Go to trade on here, or check ebay for sinew. Good luck.

[Wingit]

Makes sense. I think I'll try to get it to 24 unbacked, but if it blows I'll sinew the sister stave.

FYI for anyone else reading this, CA Bay Laurel is also known as Oregon Laurel or Oregon Myrtle. Seems to be better known by those names, now that I think about it. I'm going to ask Dick Baugh next time I see him, I think he and Tim Baker made a bow out of it many years ago.

[Aaron1726]

Etsy is another source for sinew.  Lots of folks selling it on there, some are really overpriced but you can find some good deals too.  I bought a 1/2 lb recently for $32 on there

[Del the cat]

Regarding tiller... I think the curves are so subtle it will be virtually impossible to distinguish between some unspecified ellipse and the arc of a circle. Basically I'd aim for arc of a circle but slightly stiff in the centre section (inboard from the widest point).
Del

[M2A]

Welcome to PA. One of my favorite designs now is an eastern woodlands style credited to the Choctaw, the "Grayson bow". Very similar in design to what you have. Competed the design in hickory, elm, locust and shooting one in now of osage. Don't know anything about the wood your using but seems a bit lighter. I try and get limbs working mid limb then work in and out from there. Sounds like you have a good plan by getting the mid and outer limbs working. I'd do that watching for set then work my way back to the handle to get to the draw lenght i want. I think you will need to have an almost circle tiller to get the draw lenght by the end on this piece and thats fine. A suggestion, if you know the wood is tension strong trap the back 1/8" on each side, works well for me. Hope that all makes sense. With the dimenisions you have and draw/poundage you want I know it can be done with the woods I have worked with. Good luck on the build, put up lots of pictures of the finished bow
Mike