Can I fix this tiller?

[Salsify]

So I was bringing this osage self bow to completion, and has Im sure you can see from a quarter mile off it came out just a wee bit whip-tillered. >_> <_<
I’m obviously somewhat new at this so live and learn but is there some way to dix it? It’s pulling 52# at 27”(my draw length) I’m in the process of flipping the tips a bit to fix the string angle, maybe this will get it bending less in the outer portion? Is there anything else I can do?

It’s 62” ttt, stiff for 8”, 1 3/8” wide at the fades too 5/8” tips

[Pat B]

Get more bend near the fades and flip the last 6" of the tips.

[bownarra]

For a 27" draw and if you are new to this make sure you use a longer stave. It will help until you have a bows under your belt.

[Del the cat]

The tiller is pretty good over the length of limb that is actually bending
It's just that there's about 3-4" out of the fade on each limb that's not doing much.
I'd get the limbs moving from just out of the fade, to get the tiller better and then heat treat the entire belly to bring the weight back up.
You can always flip the tips a little after that.
Del

[bjrogg]

If you can get it bending just a little out of the fades it might take some stress off the rest of the limbs and make them a little stiffer.

I agree with all the advice you have been given. 4 more inches of limbs would have really helped. I do think you have a nicely distributed bend over the area that is bending. Could have used a little more working limb and tweaked a little more out of the fades.

[RyanY]

You can almost always fix tiller if you’re willing to go down in draw weight. How much set did it take? IMO 62” ntn (not ttt) is the lower limit of a longbow for a 27” draw length with an 8” handle and fades since working limb length and draw length would be equal. If you get your tiller right it won’t stack. Some designs are even safer with regard to not stacking if they bend more in the inner limb like a pyramid, holmegaard, or mollegabet style bow.

[NonBacked]

To follow-up on Ryan’s comments – I’m guessing your bow has taken a pretty good amount of set. The tiller is nice and even and anything else you do to it will add to your experience, but won’t do “much” for the bow. If you add more stress to the limbs, it will take more set. If you change the curvature of the limbs, you will lose more weight.

It’s a “shooter” right now. It will probably lose a little draw weight, maybe 2 or 3 pounds, after a couple hundred shots. I would put a finish on it and call it “GOOD”.
H

[Yooper Bowyer]

I kind of agree with nonbacked, I don't know as much about how wooden bows tick as some other people here, but I do know how beginning bowyers work. (I was in your shoes not long ago  )  Unless you can reasonably expect the bow to improve enough to make your extra work worth while, I would leave it at pretty good and shoot for perfect on the next stave.

[scp]

A lot would depend on the target draw weight. As Del said, you can scrape the fades and heat treat the whole belly. I might even try first to heat treat the outer half limbs only.

[sleek]

The right limb mid limb is a touch stiff. Id get that coming around a little more to better match the left which looks really good to me. Then, id cut off one inch from each limb tip, and you should find your tiller is less whipped with a slight GAIN in draw weight.

That said, there isn't anything wrong with a whip tillered bow, and they shoot lighter arrows very nicely.  How much set has it taken?

[RyanY]

I also notice that it looks like your tiller tree is measuring 27” from the belly of the handle. If that’s the case you’re overdrawing the bow by a couple inches by most peoples measures which would explain the stacking string angle.