Author Topic: Best way to do v splices for handles and spliced in tips.  (Read 1108 times)

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Offline Mafort

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Best way to do v splices for handles and spliced in tips.
« on: April 22, 2020, 09:39:51 am »
So I’ve read everything from taping down some paper and then cutting to making pencil marks and cutting. I’ve got a bow I’m looking to splice some recurved tips on the bows tips. I’m putting a wood lam on the belly and sinew backing it so the splice is going to be secured. Also I’ve got a pair of Uber straight billets of Osage that I’m wanting to splice to make a bow with. Any advice for my first time?

Offline dylanholderman

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Re: Best way to do v splices for handles and spliced in tips.
« Reply #1 on: April 22, 2020, 10:45:55 am »
Whatever your method practice on some board stock/scrap pieces first

Offline PatM

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Re: Best way to do v splices for handles and spliced in tips.
« Reply #2 on: April 22, 2020, 11:13:50 am »
Regardless of how you mark the lines it will mostly depend on your ability to actually cut on those lines.

  There is a huge margin for tidying up  your V  cut and likewise finessing the inserted end to fit.    Don't just cut both and then give up if they are not perfect right away.

Offline mmattockx

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Re: Best way to do v splices for handles and spliced in tips.
« Reply #3 on: April 22, 2020, 11:38:55 am »
Whatever your method practice on some board stock/scrap pieces first

+1, excellent advice. A practice run on a new technique is always a good idea.


There is a huge margin for tidying up  your V  cut and likewise finessing the inserted end to fit.    Don't just cut both and then give up if they are not perfect right away.

Also a very important point. For the V cut I would go so far as to say the male side of the splice should be cut slightly oversized and then sanded to fit perfectly into the female side instead of trying to make them perfect right off the saw.


Mark

bownarra

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Re: Best way to do v splices for handles and spliced in tips.
« Reply #4 on: April 22, 2020, 12:24:12 pm »
Cut the female first. Sand the sides until perfect then measure, mark out and cut the male part. I cut the male part 1-2mm wider to leave room to make the fit.
If you accidentally make the male part too small when fitting cut a bit off the tip.
The male part should be 0.5mm wider when finished so that the parts naturally hold together.
There should be no light showing through the joint when fitted.
If you don't manage to do such a great job then 15 mins of steaming the joint then clamping until cool solves most issues!
Also there is no need to add a wood underlay to the joint. They don't need any support back or belly.
Using hide glue is a good idea too :)