Processing deer hide for rawhide backing

[ty_in_ND]

So, I'm not sure if this is the right place for this question, but since I figured I'll be using the rawhide for bow backing, it should be ok!  Anyways, I have a deer hide sitting outside right now waiting on me to do something with it (it's below freezing now, so it should be okay, I think!).  I was going to donate it, but I am planning on making soap from the tallow and from the quick reading I did on the subject, it sounds like lye can be used for processing a hide.  Since I need the lye to make the soap, I thought I might as well give it a shot!

Rather than trying to Google my way to an answer this time, I thought it wouldn't hurt to come here and ask.  How do you process a deer hide in order to get rawhide?

Thanks!

[Bayou Ben]

Have you looked on the primitive skills section of this site?
BowEd has a good write up on processing a deer hide. 

[Hawkdancer]

If you are going to remove(slip) the hair, a weak lye solution will do that in about 3-5 days.  You do have to wash the hide if you decide to tan it.  You can also shave the hair with a scraper.  Several good posts here about the process.  BowEd is as good as you will find for advice!
Hawkdancer

[bradsmith2010]

I do  mine as simple as possible,,
I put salt on it,, let it lay flat till dry,, and stiff,,(hanging it up is probably better)
then I just cut strips as needed,, I shave the hair off,, and glue it on the bow,, sand as needed,,

[Morgan]

I just did my first about a month ago. I found some drain cleaner that was all lye, can’t remember the concentration. On here someone mentioned putting enough lye in water to float an egg. A quart of the stuff in 3 gal of water suspended an egg in the middle. Put the hide in and stirred daily for about 3 days. I was worried about the lye and stuck the hose in the bucket and stirred the hide while bucket was overfilling. About 95% of the hair come off doing this. Then I put the swollen rubbery looking hide in a bucket with 2 gallons vinegar and a gallon of water and left for another couple days stirring daily. Pulled the hide and removed any remaining flesh and scraped off the epidermis and remaining hair from hair side. This worked well and was a good deal easier than I thought it’d be. I have another hide that I’ll try hydrated  lime instead of lye on. The temps when I did this was mid 50’s day and mid 30’s night. I understand that matters.

[upstatenybowyer]

I'm sure there are many ways to go about it. However, IMHO, when it comes to processing deer hide BowEd is your man. He's been doing it all (brain tanning, rawhide, ect.) for a long time and his "rawhide-along" will tell you everything you need to know. 

[ty_in_ND]

Thanks everyone! I did glance at the primitive skill section, but I didn't see a sticky about it. I'll Google BowEd + rawhide + primitive archer, I'm guessing that will get me what I want.

[Bayou Ben]

http://www.primitivearcher.com/smf/index.php/topic,63406.0.html.This
Still worth a read even if you are using lye.

[BowEd]

ty_in_ND....There's a fella with a step by step U tube video I happened to look at too.I was curious and found out we were'nt much different.He uses lye to dehair and softens in the frame.I just do the dry scrape method and rope it dry.I've done it the way he shows before too but prefer dry scrape and rope dry.He has done it both ways too but complains about back problems.His way of beam dehairing contributes to it IMHO.Think the guys name is Joshua Albanese.Very articulate video.I would consider him an expert in all facets of hide work including beading and quill working with brain tan.Like said many ways to skin a cat.
My thread is on page 2 of the Primitive Skills thread.All tools needed can be made for yourself in a primitive situation if you want.
I'll get into the difference here.....Dry scrape and roping dry I can put hide into plastic bag for breaks while roping dry.It'll make a hide that's 20 to 25 % smaller in the end than rawhide size but will be thicker and more robust.
Softening hide in the frame means your stuck there till you finish and you better stay till finished as it will turn back to rawhide.It'll make a hide a bit larger than the rawhide but will be thinner overall.I don't use any chemicals then either removing hair.Nor do I need all of those containers for water.
Both methods produce a very good product.Either way enjoy the final outcome as it's wonderful stuff to work with.That's for brain tan leather though.
For rawhide you want that hide stretched as much as possible in frame while drying.There won't be much excess stretching while applying it to the back of your bow then producing waste of rawhide.Rawhide is tough stuff and even a thin layer will keep splinters down and extra thickness is not needed IMHO.That's the reason why thin goat hides are so valuable for these bow backings but yearling deer are a very close 2nd.The excess you don't use I just give it a little spray of insect repellent like OFF or something and hav'nt had any bugs ever eat it.It'll keep for years that way.
I truly believe the indians just smoked the rawhide to keep bugs away in a primitive situation which would work fine too.

[ty_in_ND]

Thanks for the link, Ben!

And thanks for chiming in, Ed!! I will definitely look up that YouTube video in addition to reading your write up.  I'm not dead set on using lye, but, as I said earlier, since I need it to make soap, I will have it handy.  The hide itself came off of a doe I took, so I don't have antlers to judge how old she was.  But, guessing from her size, she's no older than 2.5 years, so hopefully that will yield some nice rawhide for bow backings...