Nock point

[DC]

I did it on the same side of the tree ie. the same plumb line. I swung the bow around and measured to where the arrow pass would be if the bottom was the top. I'm thinking that with a wonky stave getting the handle level could be a problem and if you get the level out you may be weakening the wrong limb. We'll see

[BowEd]

DWS....I believe your right but don't see why it should'nt work for someone else either.My arrow passes are usually 1.5" to 1.75"above center on all my bows.Pressure point on bow hand is dead center on bow.Right on the Y of my thumb and index finger pretty much using a bulbous type handle.I always cant my bows when I shoot except when taking pics for full draw and I usually take pics after bow is shot in.I always demand perfect arrow flight/hit where I'm looking/and very little or 0 hand shock.The string nock is usually around 1/4" above arrow pass on string with little variation on all bows and arrow snaps on under it.If that little variation is sting walking then so be it.I shoot split finger.The proof shows me no change tiller durability of my limbs.I shoot a lot on new bows and all my bows in general to say this.

[DC]

I started a new bow using this method from the get go. Trying to figure out anything on an existing bow just seemed to confuse me. Anyway I'm only to about 6" of string travel on the longish string. Probably just barely to brace height. As I pull it down it looks like it goes to the left and then back to the right. Am I seeing things or is this normal?

[Dances with squirrels]

DC, it could be normal. Just realize, what's normal in one bow design may not be normal in the next. Much about how a bow acts on the tree, and in the hand, during the draw depends on its design. Is the bow you're talking about of symmetrical design or asymmetrical? Symmetricals tend to have a bow hand fulcrum that slides more under the hand as the bow is drawn, and they take longer in the draw cycle to 'correct'. They're also more prone to tipping initially in the draw. But if the bow is held stable in the tree, this sliding fulcrum can reveal itself in how the hook drifts relative to the line. It can very well be that properly tillered in the end, it drifts away from the line a bit, then back nearer as it approaches full draw.

BUT, it seems odd to me that you're seeing it happen so early in the draw. Asymmetrical bows tend to tow the line earlier, but even they don't go back and forth in just 6" of draw. If I were you, I'd make double/tripple sure nothing is tipping initially, even a hair. Watch the handle section very, very closely when you first pull the rope. Clamp it down if you can.

[DC]

One thing I have to keep reminding myself is that it's the straight draw we're after. I keep thinking of things that can change the way the hook moves, like the asymmetry you mentioned. I think, wait, that's not right and then remind myself that as long as the hook is going straight down everything is cool because that's the objective. When I get this tillered out I'm going to re-rig the tree and pull it the way I used to. That may help me suss this out.

[Dances with squirrels]

Keep in mind too, balance at full draw is most important... not exclusive though. In other words, dynamic balance at full draw is the goal, but not the only one, because the greater the percentage of the draw, and the more closely, that the hook follows the line, the better that bow will treat the arrow, the archer, and itself. As you hone in on it, you'll feel it and see it... and soon, you'll expect nothing less.

[DC]

Just to double check. The hook following the line is "balance" right?

[Dances with squirrels]

Yes, it's basically dynamically balanced if and when actual shooter fulcrums are accurately mimicked on the tree, and the hook is on the plumb line at full draw.

Once you get there, you can even further 'fine tune' it by putting a real fulcrum under the handle(allowing the bow to tip), and then adjust relative limb strength so the bow sits level at full draw, i.e. 'placing' the precise location of the fulcrum where wanted by weakening the stronger limb. This method is also quite revealing of how things relate to bow functions.

You could do any of this stuff this with any bow you have made previously. It's humbling though