Author Topic: V grooving handle joints  (Read 1431 times)

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Offline DC

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V grooving handle joints
« on: May 14, 2017, 03:02:53 pm »
I've been thinking about this. So far just thinking. If you cut one 60 degree groove, you double the gluing area. If you cut 10 60 degree grooves you also double the glue area. If you cut a million grooves you double the area. See where I'm going? When does this grooving all of a sudden change to a flat surface? This is what over thinking does ;D. I'm assuming that the one groove would be stronger because the joint reaches farther into the wood but I not sure. How deep is the ideal set of grooves? Anyone else tried to wrap their head around this?

Offline Jim Davis

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Re: V grooving handle joints
« Reply #1 on: May 14, 2017, 04:18:14 pm »
I had a commercially made hickory flat bow that had a splice that looked just like what you see in cheap door and window frames--about 3/4 of an inch long. A handle block was glued on the belly side. It had been stored in a shed for years and the joint let go the first time I strung the bow.

I cleaned up the joints and reglued it. I kept it for 6 or 8 years and shot it from time to time. It was still holding when I gave it away.
Jim Davis

Kentucky--formerly Maine

Offline willie

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Re: V grooving handle joints
« Reply #2 on: May 14, 2017, 10:12:45 pm »
when the grooves become small enough where they do not mesh together, but just fill with glue and the high points are the only points of contact, then you will have a flat surface with possibly excess glue.