bamboo questions

[freke]

Hi
I have considering back one of my projects with Boo, I have disassembled a Chines cooking basket and achieved two perfect sized flat lamells 1/4-1/8" thick. It has no outer raw side left, the inside seems left and feels a little spongy, and my glue test revile it is not perfect to glue on so I plane to sand it down. 
My thinking was to apply with hide glue and an iron, but is this wise?
What glue suits bamboo best, in case hide glue isn't recommended.

More questions,
Strength, I have tested two bend the lamells and they area really flexable. I am not sure about how dry they area, and I have heard that fly rod builder bake the wood in a hot box, is that some thing I should do also for backing?

I have done some test stripes, one I accidentally darken by too much heat - it looks good and feels as flexible as the other - but can this be used for backing?

I read that tapering the backing towards the tips, can that be done on both side?

Thanks in advance,
Jonas

[PEARL DRUMS]

My best guess? Its no good at all. Especially after being steamed and formed into a basket shape. Its a lot of work on sub-par materials only for it to fail sooner than later.

[PatM]

The nodes will be shot. I wouldn't use it,

[freke]

okay, thanks better ask before I wast the build

[Ballasted_Bowyer]

I am a beginner but here's my experience.    I get my bamboo cheap from the trimmings at a local bamboo farm. You might have a landscaper in your area who maintains a yard or park with moso or vivax that has to be cut back occasionally. You want the biggest diameter and oldest piece you can get. The bigger diameter lets you get the bamboo thinner. The older stalk will have a thicker wall so you can get a flat glue surface. The nodes are further apart near the top of the culm so if the cell wall is thick enough you want to take your boo from up high. The nodes are stiff spots but you want to leave them because if you violate the nodes the backing WILL break. The main thing is not the species but the quality. The bamboo should be at least 3" in diameter and be three or more years since sprouting. The straighter it is the better.

[Eric Krewson]

3" will work but you will have a high crown on the back of your bow unless you make it narrow.

I prefer a minimum of "4 like these culms in the picture I cut a while back.

[Ballasted_Bowyer]

Eric, how well does that black bamboo keep its color? Those are gorgeous.

[PatM]

Doesn't that look Green?

[Ballasted_Bowyer]

Ah, it is. I had my screen dimmed so as not to disturb Sleeping Beauty.

[Eric Krewson]

The bamboo in the picture is Giant Timber Bamboo, it turns tan just like other bamboo when it dries.

[freke]

I live in Sweden so cannot find locally grewn, and I do not know of any fly rod dealer at the moment selling good quality boo.
But there are a good chance to find bambo for sale in some garden shops, I have seen some up above 4" and they have all been yellow.

If I should go looking for bamboo, what should I look for to determin if its good quality?
and what should I avoid.
Should the boo be one stripe, or can I have joint in the handle?

[PatM]

You can join it in the handle. Bamboo changes colour just like cut grass for hay does. It will turn paler green if dried in the dark but the slightest amount of light bleaches the green out completely over time.

[freke]

Now have I get hold of a log about 4", bow full length:), 

I have learned is should be a thin stripe, is there any general rules, and use hide glue works for this kind of job or is some glue better for Boo?
It will stick to a carrier of Ash.

[Ballasted_Bowyer]

For me, glue responds to boo the same as wood. So, any wood glue that holds up in your climate will work fine. The main thing is to make sure you have no gaps between laminations. I use titebond 3. But I live on the west coast of Oregon which is a temperate rainforest--no cold weather. I have to protect from rain though.

[Aaron H]

Unibond 800 is a very good glue, as is Smooth On epoxy