is this terminal?

[Badger]

 Rasp it out and retiller, follow the grain lines. If the bow has a crown or rounded belly it may not have much effect on the weight. Maybe shorten up the draw a few inches.

[Marc St Louis]

Use thin crazy glue, it should work its way to the ends.  Clamp hard

[simson]

I would do like Marc said, warming up with the heat gun before applying the glue helps.

[Springbuck]

I'm with Marc.  This is exactly how twisted grain splits when you try too hard to twist it straight, and apple usually twists.   Just happened to me on a BL stave with rollercoaster wobbles and some snakes.  I was trying to coax the limbs into approximately the same plane at the fadeouts, but the thicker handle section split a lot like that,  and lifted in two kitty corner spots on the belly side. 

 I'd glue it down with the strongest glue you have access to, and keep going cautiously.  If the split was close to the grip, you may consider gluing down the splinter, flattening belly side, and adding another little slat to stiffen the handle a bit.

[Limbit]

Superglue will just soak right into the wood because it is so viscous, but if you also tilt it in the direction you want it to go and then clamp it for a bit, it will set fine. Also, like I said, bind it after you get near the max range for your tiller. Use thin nylon thread and bind it tight. If there is an issue with the bind throwing off your tiller, do a mirror bind on the opposite limb. That is how the Taiwanese aboriginals fix their bows when they split like that...and they do split like that a lot because the wood they use is so incredibly thin ringed and snakey that it is next to impossible to get through making a bow without some minor splitting going on. The wood (Orange Jessamine) also checks like crazy, but still makes a hell of a good bow wood and binds looks pretty unique if you get the right string.