Black locust static recurve build along

[George Tsoukalas]

That so nice an =d is looking really good. Jawge

[Aaron H]

Yep, looking real nice

[Mo_coon-catcher]

Well I got a bunch of the tillering done today. I knew it's was still quite a bit over weight, so I took a couple sets if scrapes from each limb and beaded it up at a full brace. So I worked on evening out the limbs. Once they were even I put it on the tree and pulled it back to 50# which was at about 20". What I didn't realize until I pulled it back and it took me a minute to realize I had a hing starting mid too limb. It wasn't too horrid so it took a bit to realize it, but te damage was done and I had the spot fret on me. With the deflex I put in the fades I was trying to avoid working the fades too much too soon and ended up stressing the midlimb. But I cleaned up the hinge and evened up the limbs, I checked the tiller in the tryck window and it looked much better. I put it back on the tree, watching the bend more closely. I had to touch just outside the fades a bit, but it pretty much just pulled straight track to 26" to hit 50#. So after shooting in and cleanup with just shy of 50# at 27". I'm afraid to push the bow any more than this, it's alreay a prety sharp bend and has taken just shy of 1" of set. I got ahold of the guy I'm building it for to see if he would prefer me make the handle bend and push it back to 29". Or if he was happy with a 27" draw. So here it is at full draw on the tree. I wish I wouldve taken more pictures i between first full brace and full draw, but it went pretty quick. And it shoots very smoothly and pretty quick with a 27" draw even with the still heavy built levers.ill keep updating as I get the finish work done. The pictures at at first full brace, full draw, and unbraced.

Kyle

[BowEd]

Man those curves always look sweet.Nice work with very little set I'd say.Lucky you had enough meat to adjust the fret away.Shoot her in a bit and dress her up heh???

[FilipT]

Could it go till 28"?

[Mo_coon-catcher]

It's possible I could take it on back a bit more. If I didn't over stress that one spot I probably would. I did notice that the lower limb, whih is the left in the tree is still a bit stiff. So I could take a couple scrapes and ease it on back a smidge. Though I feel like it'll gain some more set if I pull it back much more. I'm going to shoot it in for a bit and see how it settles in. I've only got about 40 shots through it at the moment so it will probably shift a little. And it feels very smooth in the hand, so the tiller in the hand is probably a little more even than it is on te tree, even though I did try to replicate the same hold points on the handle and string as I was shooting it. I'll have to get an in the hand draw picture.

This bow also has the thinnest limbs of any bow I've made. The thinnest spot, which is where I had e hinge, is only about 1/4-5/16" thick. Yet still pulls 50#. Usually they turn out closer to 3/8" at there thin points.

Kyle

[BowEd]

I was going to mention that about that left limb Mo but figured you took a pic at an angle there so that could skew the look a bit.Must be wide enough to get the limbs that thin.Hope she holds together for ya.

[Mo_coon-catcher]

The limbs are 1 3/4" wide till mid limb then tapering to 3/4" 27" fade to nock.. Once I get it shot in im going to narrow the tips down a bit to about 3/8" at the knocks. I did a bit more looking over of the tiller pictures. It looks like the fades aren't really working much if at all. And it has taken a bit less set than I initially noticed, closer to 1/2-5/8". So I might tweak the tiller a bit and see if I can shoot it into a 28" draw and if it doesn't take any more set see if it wants to go the 29". I intended it to be a 29" draw, might as well see if I can make it happen.

Kyle

[Mo_coon-catcher]

Sorry about the long absence with no updates. Classes started back up and I've got a 2 hour commute each way. And I ran into that typical iPhone issue of memory space being full and can't take any pictures. But I fixed that by deleting phantom pictures. So I missed a step of two, but I've delayed some work until I could take pictures again.

But, I got the horn nocks and brush nocks glued on. I used super glue for the overlays and epoxy mixed with horn dust for the brush nocks. I ahaped the inside curve of the horn with a rasp and scraper to get it as close as I reasonably could and used the epoxy to finish filling the gap. I've got the new slimmer profile for the hooks doodle out. But before I fully rasp then out I'm going to shape out just the nock to see where the string alignment shifts to and redraw as need be. I don't have near the amount of material id like to work with and keep the string centered. But it should be anoigh to be acceptable. What I have drawn out is: 3/8" at the nock, 1/2" at the start of the horn and 5/8" and the rear, then tapering to the full width in 3". I can make it a bit wider but not much, maybe 1/16".

What do you all think, before I hack away? I think it should be fine personally, but I'd like another opinion or two

Kyle

[lebhuntfish]

That's starting to look pretty good bud!

Patrick