Author Topic: Rings (Read 3755 times)

E. Jensen · « **on:** January 08, 2016, 08:11:40 pm »

Both of these are down to the outside ring. Took it to the cambium/phloem layer then scraped that off. So none of the first ring taken off. Question is, would any of you go down deeper, or roll with it? The first is elm, the second is hickory.

Hrothgar · « **Reply #1 on:** January 08, 2016, 08:28:23 pm »

I would probably leave the elm as is, the first ring of the hickory looks a little pithy, I would go down at least another one. The third is nice and wide if you don't mind working that far.

E. Jensen · « **Reply #2 on:** January 08, 2016, 09:31:54 pm »

I can't even see the first rings on the hickory they are so small. I know hickory is tough though so idk

DanD · « **Reply #3 on:** January 08, 2016, 09:38:28 pm »

The hickory looks to me like the chain might have dulled on the saw, cut 1/2" to 1 " off the end to determine if that top ring is punky. If it is take down 1 more and should be good to go. Never worked with elm but it looks good to go.
Dan

E. Jensen · « **Reply #4 on:** January 08, 2016, 10:41:28 pm »

Was cut with a hand saw this morning. Looks like I'm taking it down some

Dances with squirrels · « **Reply #5 on:** January 09, 2016, 07:45:53 am »

Was the hickory a standing, live, healthy tree?

The outer ring or two does look punky on the left side of the picture, but maybe it just looks like that because of how it was sawed or due to tear out when it fell, etc. I'd cut 1/2" off the end with a smooth cutting miter saw or something to get a better look at it.

E. Jensen · « **Reply #6 on:** January 09, 2016, 10:40:24 am »

I have no clue it was sent by someone else. I'd guess cut living, as it was sopping wet when I got it. There are about 5-10 rings on the end for the width of one of those fatties nearer the pith. I want to be lazy and just call it good. But I know taking all those thin rings will yield a stronger, denser bow.

I got excited because I rummaged through my closet and found about 4-5 staves that I either didn't want to tackle before or didn't feel I had the skill before and wanted to crush them all but I should be patient and do it right. Still haven't decided about the elm.

simson · « **Reply #7 on:** January 09, 2016, 11:20:15 am »

If like to have a two tone colored stick (sap + heartwood) go further!
otherwise I'm convinced the first ring works.

E. Jensen · « **Reply #8 on:** January 09, 2016, 11:22:59 am »

I'm so back on forth now, because yes I love two tone!!! Are there different properties between elm heat and sap that I should consider?

Jim Davis · « **Reply #9 on:** January 09, 2016, 11:46:52 am »

When they used to make handles out of hickory, the sap wood was preferred. Hickory is very strong in tension. If that stick has no punk in the outside, there is no reason to go work the back. It is much harder to chase a hickory ring than with Osage or locust, or even ash.

E. Jensen · « **Reply #10 on:** January 09, 2016, 08:55:39 pm »

Well I committed to bringing them both down. Wasn't too bad. Elm had a lot of pin knots and flatter crown so took a while

E. Jensen · « **Reply #11 on:** January 11, 2016, 09:30:26 am »

Take off your ring hats and put on your bow twist hats. No point in a new thread for a quick question on the same bow. Twist in the limb on the last 6-8inches or so. What would you guys do. Try and take out, or put a side nock on it? Or a little of both.

Pappy · « **Reply #12 on:** January 11, 2016, 09:36:15 am »

Personally I would take the twist out, I never leave it if I don't have to. Hickory and Elm both work well with heat, so pretty easy to straighten up.
Pappy

E. Jensen · « **Reply #13 on:** January 11, 2016, 09:44:45 am »

Square end and yank with a wrench and then heat?

Pappy · « **Reply #14 on:** January 11, 2016, 10:05:18 am »

You can do it tat way, I always use a form and shims so to over correct as some will come back.

Pappy

Primitive Archer