Hey, that actually turned out pretty well!
So, looking at the pics closer, just some thoughts for next time. One of the disadvantages of recurves is that they often have massive outer limbs in order to ensure stability. Since the tip is not more or less aligned with everything else, it provides leverage for TINY misalignments of stresses and forces to torque the limbs sideways and create vibration, etc..
In this bow, starting only 1-1/2" wide was probably fine, but on a recurve or severely reflexed tip, if you taper the WIDTH of the limb down too early, as you noted, the limb BELOW the recurve is the problem. If it is 1/2" by 1/2" at the BASE of the recurve, there is no reason for the limb to bend the way you want it, back toward the string, because it can bend sideways as easily as it can bend backwards. The recurve provides the off-center leverage, and BTW it is amplified by the reflex, or setback handle, too.
So, keep a recurve limb WIDER further out the limb. If I make a bow 64"x 2" wide, say, with 5 or 6" recurves, I might taper the limbs only the last 10". You can always smooth a little away later. So the base of the recurves is almost an inch wide x the 1/2" thickness.
But, we don't like heavy tips, right? Well, tough, you need the stability. However, you CAN bnlend a little away, improve the tiller, mess with the trapping, or the cross section, reinforce the curve with cables, backings or overlays, etc, and most IMPORTANTLY shorten the limb. Shorter limb means less weight at the tips, cuz it's GONE! The recurve takes care of the energy storage, smooth draw, etc...
