Black Walnut Sapling advice (Tiller check on pg 2)

[bubbles]

There are still some pith channels visible near the top tip, as the pic shows.  Anybody think that will be  a problem?

[Josh B]

The pith channels won't hurt a thing.  You can decrown it to save your width,  BUT...don't get carried away!  Very little wood off that high crown will make a huge difference.   Josh

[bubbles]

Allright, I'm getting to the end of tillering - thought I'd get some opinions on where to go from here.
 
It's 40#@23" and I'm having a little trouble dropping the weight.  What do you guys think so far?  The last half of the  bottom limb took a lot of reflex from the sinew, while the top limb stayed pretty straight.  What`s the procedure for tillering after sinew has changed the way the bow is in the unstrung profile?  It's currently at a 5" brace, which I though was sufficient since it's a short bow. 

[BOWMAN53]

if you apply the sinew evenly you shouldnt have to do much retillering after its cured.

[bubbles]

I guess the sinew was not applied evenly then.

[BOWMAN53]

opps i guess i miss read that. if the bow is bending evenly when drawn then i wouldnt worry about the unbraced profile.  the tiller looks good to me.

[Bogaman]

I wouldn't be that concerned about the reflex as it is unstrung. Tiller is more important. And it looks to me like you did a very good job on that. I've made a few walnut stave bows and sinewed all of them. Such is the nature of walnut. They do make a beautiful bow in my opinion. One of the nicer looking woods. They just need some help to make them efficient and durable.
Nice Bow!

[bubbles]

Cool, thanks guys, I guess I'll just take it slow and careful for these last few inches.