If Craftsman in the US is the same as we get here in Canada , it's quality makes it worse than useless. It makes it genuinely dangerous. I was just saying this to a friend on the weekend whose router gets stuck in the on position (trigger lock wont disengage) I've used their Mitre saws, planers, routers and other sundry tools and found them all the same (all at various friends ,never mine). I work with these tools professionally, but I'm not being a tool snob . I have a variety of tools in my own shop ( not brand loyal) . I have had the benefit of finding out over the years which tools are worth the money ,when I was working in various cabinet shops , and factories. There are of course various quality differences in many tools , but I think for a 14" bandsaw you will find that most are made off shore. Do a quick research on Grizzly and you may find it's no different than Craftex, Toolex ,etc. It may use a different factory for it's higher end stuff. Up here ,the benchmark for quality is a company from Quebec named General. It is heavy duty stuff that you will see in high school and college woodshops because it can take the abuse. However , to compete with the imports that flooded the market ,they produce a second line that is still called General but the logo is different . It's made from parts manufactured to their specs overseas and inspected and assembled here. Still very good ,but not quite the same fit and finish.
Check out the other saw's if there is a big price difference with the Grizzly,it's likely going to be the same parts just different paint job.
Sounds like you might be putting too much tension on the blade ,as well. When setting up , leave the guide blocks back , get the blade tracking in the center of the tire (tuning by hand at first) tighten the blade so it's snug and then while running loosen it slowly with the tensioner until it starts to vibrate just a little. then tighten it only enough to stop the vibration. You will find this really has no correspondence to the makings on the tensioner for the blade you are using. Now tighten in the guide blocks with a scrap of paper in between them and the blade. Support bearings behind the blade should not spin until you apply force to the blade. They are not used for blade tracking , only support during cutting. I always take an old grind stone or whetstone to round the back of the blade while it's running as well. This takes off any burr and lets you cut smoother curves as the back edge wont get hung up in the saw marks. Using blades with less teeth / inch will give you a smoother cut and be easier on the motor.
You may already know this , in which case we will chock it up to info for those that may not.
PS : I've had my off shore 14" bandsaw for over 20 years and used it quite heavily . Had to replace the capacitor last year ($5) the casting for the guide blocks was repaired(I don't know how Mom broke it but I'm guessing ,user error
) One new set of cool blocks about 15 years ago ($15-20 at the time). Keep the motor and the switch blown out , and clean it often and you should have no problems.
Good luck! Let us know what you buy. I'm sure you'll be posting the baby pics
