Red elm, red oak, persimmon, small diameter hickory

[wood_bandit 99]

I am going to cut some of the woods stated and I have the trees growing about 6" thick, give it take an inch or more. I have a 3" persimmon and hickory tree growing. I was wondering if there is anything I need to be warned about cutting warping the woods properties drying, speed drying, checking, and woods properties as a bow wood(horrible at compression etc.) do i need to follow a ring or only use sapwood or heartwood anything you have ever found about this wood and this wiol be my first few trees to cut and split. Any tips are helpful thanks!

[chamookman]

I'd wait to cut 'til the sap is running this Spring - then the bark will pop right off. No messing around establishing a back - easy-peasy. Bob

[Pat B]

I agree with Bob.

[adb]

I don't. Cut it now, when the sap is down. A bit more work to remove the bark, but it'll season quicker.

[Pat B]

Do a little test..cut half now and half after the sap rises and you make the judgment call. 

[George Tsoukalas]

You could cut one now if you are anxious to get started. Seal the ends. Remove the bark. Rough it out and even get it bending a few inches.
Wait about a week before putting it near heat.
I pout my bows near a radiator. I have forced hot water.
It should dry faster if roughed out.
I'd leave the bulk of it for the spring.
Jawge
http://georgeandjoni.home.comcast.net/~georgeandjoni/index.html

[Eric Garza]

I agree with George. If you want wood to work now, I'd only choose one of the trees and leave the others until the sap starts flowing in spring so their bark comes off easier.

It's been my experience that different woods take to speed drying differently, with some warping more easily, some checking worse and others holding up quite well. Winter-harvested hickory seems to hold up well to speed drying in my experience, and it can tolerate some back violations associated with cutting the bark and cambium off. It does take longer to dry though, since it's so dense. I've never had luck speed drying elm, it always warps for me, even when clamped to something to keep it straight. I'd cut that tree in the spring, split it as best you can (elm is a beast to split), peel the bark, seal the back and ends, and leave as a non-bending stave for a couple years to let it dry and season slowly.

But that's just me. Feel free to experiment, and let us know how things turn out.

[George Tsoukalas]

Be careful when removing the bark. The rings on some whitewoods are pretty hard to chase.
Get close with a drawknife and then remove the rest with a scraper.
Jawge