Author Topic: Problems getting my woodslicer blade cutting good, problem finding the drift too  (Read 4167 times)

0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic.

Offline toomanyknots

  • Member
  • Posts: 3,132
Well I am on my 3rd woodslicer, one blade I used on a 10" craftsman, the other on a 14" grizzly, both with great results. I have not had any trouble finding the drift and then compensating the fence to the blade drift on either, and after that, I usually get great cutting results, usually almost glue-able quality cut, with very little sanding needed. I ordered a second woodslicer for the my 14" grizzly, (my old one I have been using probably everyday since this spring, it is dulllll.....) for cutting  up some hickory into backings mostly. I needed a new one anyway though. But man, I cannot find the drift for nothing. I have cut a bunch of mdf and boards, following the lines, setting my fence, etc, and it just ain't working. I mean, it is like I get a different angle every time I cut a line to check the angle. It is not consistent. I only recently started using a bandsaw this year, so I am still novice and all, just as a heads up. I have never had my wheels perfectly aligned, I have had them as close as I could get though. I am not super sure still how to properly tension a blade. I usually use the indicator nut as a guide, and if it is walking around as it cuts or something I will increase the tension a bit, etc. I am pretty sure I got my roller guides good too. I don't set them with a dollar bill like most people do. It don't work on these guides, when you try it, the tightening of the nut to tighten the roller guide in place actually moves the roller guide, so when I try to set it with a dollar, it always comes out way to tight, I mean the blade will not even move it is so tight. I always thought I should buy some better guides, but I never really knew which ones to buy. I don't know if I should try to tune the whole thing up all over again, or what. The main thing that is killing me, is how on earth does the blade drift keep changing every time I follow a line on a board to find the blade drift!. I've been messing with it all yesterday, and all today. Man. No matter what I do, I still get crappy cut quality it seems as well.
"The way of heaven is like the bending of a bow-
 the upper part is pressed down,
 the lower part is raised up,
 the part that has too much is reduced,
 the part that has too little is increased."

- Tao Te Ching, 77, A new translation by Victor H. Mair

Offline Badger

  • Member
  • Posts: 8,124
  Chris, is your blade tracking in the center of the roller? Also see if it is tracking in the same place on both rollers. If thats all ok I would double check my roller for debri that may have stuck to them. If you have a small dremel with a 3/16 stone bit you may be able to sharpen your blade, just give them a touch on the underside. It takes me about 10 min to hit all the teeth and it seems to make them at least as sharp as when they were new. Only if you have at least 4 teeth per inch. I set my guides right up against my blade, right behind the teeth just for reference..

Offline artcher1

  • Member
  • Posts: 1,114
Sounds like it's the blade itself. Tooth set could be different side to side, or one side is sharper that the other. Blade could have come like that or you could have caused it yourself by not having the thrust roller/guides set properly. Or you could just need more tension on the blade. I've gotten blades longer than they should to be. Hope you get things straightened out........Art

Offline Tom Kurth

  • Member
  • Posts: 29
Most people put way too much tension on bandsaw blades according to a couple articles I've read in major woodworking magazines. Try this: raise your blade guard as high as it will go. Hold a fingertip in the middle of the exposed blade about 1/4" from the blade. Now push the blade over with the index finger of the other hand. If you have proper tension, you should be able to push the blade over to meet the first finger WITH MODERATE PRESSURE. If you have to strain or it hurts your pushing finger, you have too much tension. Excess tension, counter-intuitively, can create a bellied out cut and can eventually distort the frame of your saw. Also, don't feed the wood too fast. Keep in mind that once the gullets between the teeth fill with sawdust, they can cut no more. Thus, unless you have to make very sharp turns and so need a narrow blade, three- to four-teeth per inch blades are the only ones you really need. The three and four tooth blades cut faster because it takes longer for the bigger gullets to fill with sawdust. Higher tooth count blades do not cut any smoother and should only be used for thin material and the previously mentioned sharp turns.

Best,
Tom
Best,
Tom

Escape to Missouri

Offline toomanyknots

  • Member
  • Posts: 3,132
Thanks for the advice guys. Steve, this is a brand new blade actually, fresh out the package. Do you mean is it tracking in the same place on both wheels? I have never been able to get my wheels perfectly co-planer, the blade is centered in the top, but a little off center on the bottom. Never the less, I have still been able to get good quality cuts, so I don't know what to think. Artcher and Tom, I will check the tension on the blade, using your advice Tom. I have never used the flutter method, just the indicator for the most part to tension blades, so it might be the tension maybe. It is weird I can't find the blade drift angle, maybe I should use a thicker hardwood board instead of mdf which the blade can cut threw easily? Because the wood I am going to be resawing is 1 1/8" to 1 3/8" wide hickory.
"The way of heaven is like the bending of a bow-
 the upper part is pressed down,
 the lower part is raised up,
 the part that has too much is reduced,
 the part that has too little is increased."

- Tao Te Ching, 77, A new translation by Victor H. Mair

Offline Badger

  • Member
  • Posts: 8,124
Maybe look up the thickess of the wood sicer, it may be a tad thicker and they might have their own tension guide. Unless Toms post was allready for a woodslicer.

Offline toomanyknots

  • Member
  • Posts: 3,132
Maybe look up the thickess of the wood slicer, it may be a tad thicker and they might have their own tension guide. Unless Toms post was allready for a woodslicer.

Okee Dokey, will do. I know I'm doing something wrong. I hate always trying to figure these things out over the internet,  ::).
"The way of heaven is like the bending of a bow-
 the upper part is pressed down,
 the lower part is raised up,
 the part that has too much is reduced,
 the part that has too little is increased."

- Tao Te Ching, 77, A new translation by Victor H. Mair

Offline stickbender

  • Member
  • Posts: 3,828

     How high above the wood are placing the guides?  Are you maybe too high?
Just guessing here.

                                                    Wayne

Offline toomanyknots

  • Member
  • Posts: 3,132
As low as I can.
"The way of heaven is like the bending of a bow-
 the upper part is pressed down,
 the lower part is raised up,
 the part that has too much is reduced,
 the part that has too little is increased."

- Tao Te Ching, 77, A new translation by Victor H. Mair

Offline Badger

  • Member
  • Posts: 8,124
  I hate when that happens, I haven't used wood slicer for a while but they have a good reputation for blades. I am having s similar mystery problem on my belt sander.

Offline stickbender

  • Member
  • Posts: 3,828

    Uh oh.......similar problems......that is one of the first signs before....... they come...... :o ::)  Or it could be the machines are getting ready also...... :o


                                                                        Wayne