Author Topic: Tillering questions  (Read 4547 times)

0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic.

Offline bushboy

  • Member
  • Posts: 2,256
Re: Tillering questions
« Reply #15 on: October 14, 2013, 11:41:46 am »
A good floor tiller will go a long way!get it really close by eye and feel.put the shortest string that you can fit without struggling to much.exersise it on a tillering stick maybe pulling 10" for 20 to 30 times ,hook it on a notch at about 10" ,take a few steps back and assess quickly(maybe take a pic).this all has to be done as quick as possible.mark it with a pencil where to remove wood and where not to.when your happy go to a low brace of 3",exercising well as you go making sure to sight down the limb with every chance you get to see where the wood is beginning to show signs of stress(set).you would see early on in your case that the outer limbs were working to much and starting to deform.study the brace very closely as this will speak volumes as to how even your tiller is.I constantly run my hand up and down the back juring the whole process to feel for splinters.return it to the tillering stick until you are confident to go to brace height.if you don't understand some of the terms I have. Used just ask ,somebody will fill you in(not sure if there is a bow building glossary on here somewhere?) There are many ways to skin a cat and this is just one.
Some like motorboats,I like kayaks,some like guns,I like bows,but not the wheelie type.

Offline Joec123able

  • Member
  • Posts: 1,769
Re: Tillering questions
« Reply #16 on: October 14, 2013, 02:34:24 pm »
Sorry... it's not quite that simple.



Well basically, yes it is that's the simplest way to define it

What about draw weight, draw length, tiller shape, back profile, tip deflection, and symmetrical limb bend? Do they matter?

Lol
I like osage

Offline skarhand

  • Member
  • Posts: 180
Re: Tillering questions
« Reply #17 on: October 14, 2013, 02:47:42 pm »
(not sure if there is a bow building glossary on here somewhere?)

I found this very handy:

http://www.primitivearcher.com/smf/index.php/topic,978.0.html

Its located in the Archive section.

Offline Tiredtim

  • Member
  • Posts: 109
Re: Tillering questions
« Reply #18 on: October 14, 2013, 03:07:02 pm »
(not sure if there is a bow building glossary on here somewhere?)

I found this very handy:

http://www.primitivearcher.com/smf/index.php/topic,978.0.html

Its located in the Archive section.

Very handy.  Thanks

Offline Danzn Bar

  • Member
  • Posts: 4,166
Re: Tillering questions
« Reply #19 on: October 14, 2013, 06:55:40 pm »
What adb said on removing the hinge,I always put a mark on either side of the part that is bending to much and mark it NO,so I am sure to stay off of that till it comes back in with the rest. :)

I do that too and sometimes I wrap masking tape around a hinge or area that I don't want to touch until you don't see it any more.
DBar
Integrity is doing the right thing when no one is looking

Offline Tiredtim

  • Member
  • Posts: 109
Re: Tillering questions
« Reply #20 on: October 16, 2013, 11:36:22 am »
I've taken y'all's advise and it is working.  Del, I'm making the fade not as long.  And Pappy, I did just what you said.  I wrote "NO" where the hinge or whip tiller was.  I may have a bow that pulls less than I want it to but I have learned a great deal.  Thanks to every one.

Offline adb

  • Member
  • Posts: 5,339
Re: Tillering questions
« Reply #21 on: October 16, 2013, 04:00:10 pm »
Better to have a well tillered lighter weight bow, than a poor heavier bow.