I have been finding a method that works for me;
(1)The river cane used came from an area along a creek near Winston-Salem, NC. Lots of it growing and it reaches about 8-12 feet tall. It is completely dried.
I cut the nock end at the diameter I wanted it to be. I did not worry about the node locations, which I think would make a better arrow if I had. I used a course file to lower the nodes some, then used 60 grit sand paper to smooth it down a bit more. In the past I have tried to use a stove burner to straighten the arrows by sight. This is the first improvement I learned; I used a yard stick to draw a thick straight line 36 inches long on my work bench. Also added a block of wood to bend the shaft on. Laying the cane shaft on the line, I would find that a part of the shaft would lay along the line, but then bend away. I used a propane bottle burner to heat the shaft where it deviated away from the line and bend it in line. As I rotated the shaft other deviations became easily obvious and would correct them. Quickly the shaft would rotate and stay pretty dang close to the line.
(2) I have never liked the wood shaft insert into cane for an arrow (personal preference). I always thought the insert idea was great for atlatls, but not arrows. I have tried a few but never turned out like I hoped. I took the straightened cane arrow and put it against a grinder wheel, grinding the stone point end. I ground it to the center (1/2 way) of the shaft at an angle, that removed shaft back about 3/4 of an inch. Turned it to the opposite side and did it again. This leaves the end pointed and open like a birds beak. I selected a stone point and heated the points base while also heating the pitch ( I used arrow hot melt) and dabbing some on the base. I then heated the end of the shaft some to make it malleable at the point and pressed the stone point into the beak. Adjust the point (it's hot) using a piece of leather to align with the shaft all around its perimeter (center it). Let it cool to where you can spin the shaft and see if all is aligned. They will spin as good as any carbon or aluminum arrow I've used with broad heads, if centered correctly.
(3) I did the exact same grinding but less angle to the nock end. The grinding will create a sharp edge in the mouth, that I am certain could cut a string. I used a very small round file to flatten and round the bottom of the nock mouth or beak. The last step was to wrap the stone points and just below the nock with sinew to strengthen and hold it all together.
I can't wait to get feathers on these and shoot them!
Thanks for looking, Lyman
