bending Rowan?

[Radon]

Hi all,

as this is my first posting here, I'd like to introduce myself:
My name is Stefan, from southern Germany.
I've been making bows for just over a year now (so I consider myself an uttely beginner). So far two or three of my bows survived and currently I'm shooting a 45#@28" Maple bamboo backed flatbow which to my delight still holds most of its original perry reflex.

Now my Problem:
My next project starts with a rowan stave, however, that stave is only 66" long.
Plan is a bow of about 55# @ 28" with a max. draw length of 29 1/2".
Do you guys think these measurements are realistic with a "D" tiller bow?
I also thought that it would be nice to bend small recurves.
So far I never heat bend dry wood. Has anyone of you already recurved rowan?
Would you steam it or use dry heat?

Greetings from Germany
Radon

[Pat B]

Welcome to PA, Radon.     66" for a 28" draw should be plenty of bow. I have never worked Rowan(we call it mountain ash) but I have seen some nice rowan bows on here. I would treat it like whitewood and keep it wide at least 6" to 8" out from the handle before tapering to the tips.
   A general rule of thumb about heating wood is wet wood use steam, dry wood use dry heat. I use a heat gun and olive oil. Having not worked rowan I don't know which is best for it. Some woods work well with steam but others prefer dry heat.  Recurved tips, even if only slightly recurved will give you a better string angle at full draw and prevent stacking and finger pinch. By "D" bow are you referring to the cross section shape or the "D" profile of the strung bow?     Pat

[a finnish native]

I make my bows from rowan also. it's definitely a realistic figure. just remember to keep the belly of the bow flat. rowan is not that good in compression so it can cryshal easily if the belly is round.

[medicinewheel]

hi radon! - herzlich wilkommen!
gruß aus der eifel, frank

ps: post some pictures of your stuff; everybody here cares!

[Radon]

Hi all,

thanks so far.
I'll keep you updated 

Radon