fletching bites hand

[hatcha]

The last couple of dozen arrows I've made, I've taken to wrapping B55 from fletchings to shaft - if nothing else than for aesthetic reasons (helps to colour-code to the bow etc) but just yesterday I fell foul to "shootin' groups" and tore off about an inch of the tail-end of a feather with another arrow.

Now I gotta strip the B55, the damaged feather, smooth the shaft, re-finish it (black auto paint), glue on another feather, then re-wrap new B55...

Oh the price we pay for our vanities 

[JW_Halverson]

Vain for sure.  I'd just shoot it "as is" until it flat wore out or got lost!

[dmenzies1950]

I do the same as Outback Bob. There must be some disadvantages or everyone would do it, though I've never had any negative results. It's super easy, and way quicker than cutting and sanding each quill.            Dale   

[Jim Davis]

As others have said, taper the front end of the quill and add that drop of Duco. I never use a rest on my self bows and never get cut.

Jim Davis

[4dog]

Used some super glue around and on the wrap, got it a bit think in a spot , ripped my hand to and knuckle up, filed it a bit , reglued , no probs.

[bubby]

I use clear nail polish on the wrap instead of ca glue

[Jim Davis]

Vain for sure.  I'd just shoot it "as is" until it flat wore out or got lost!

Me too. That's always my way of  dealing  with a fletching that gets a  section torn off at the back end. I straight fletch my shafts, and even with one feather totally missing, they fly pretty good. (I refletch those when I come in from shooting.)

[swamp monkey]

Success!  Because the flething was already on the arrow I decided to leave them on. I filed the leading edge down some and wrapped the front part of the fletch with upholstery thread. 

Nary a fletch bite to be had.

Thanks for all the tips.  I feel better prepared to deal with future arrow sets and trouble shoot future problems. 

You guys are great.

[Jacko]

In my experience this is mostly a Tuning problem. I often get shouted down when this question pops up around the campfire in my neck of the woods because it's too hard and besides Traditional Archery Equipment is simple ?? Correct Arrows Spine Brace Height and Nocking Point are best established with Bare Shafts, there is plenty on the Web on how to do this.

Once Correct Spine and Nocking Point and Brace Height are established then follow the excellent advice given so far in regards to trimming the Quill.

With a Tuned Bow and Matched Arrows it is no problem to shoot with wet Feathers that are laying on the Shaft, they will Fly straight and True. With Hunting Arrows the extra thought and effort really pays dividends with cleaner Arrow Flight and better performance penetration wise from the Arrow. Our Forefathers knew this stuff hence the old saying about any Stick will shoot an Arrow but a good Arrow is a heap of work. I'll add any Tuned Stick will shoot an Arrow to the Phrase

regards Jacko

[chamookman]

I do it same a Pappy - works great. At the Marshal get-together My Bud Wirwicki got sliced pretty good. He's just finished a set of arrows - the leading edges had been wrapped with thread. Using a CA glue to fletch and secure the wrapping. First shot sliced the dickens out of Him. On inspection, there was a tiny curly-cue of glue (think of the top of a soft serve ice cream cone) on the wrapping. OUCH ! Bob

[Pat B]

I seal fletching wraps with super glue and when it cures I sand it with very fine emory cloth, add a bit more glue and sand it again. It is like having a solid band and it is smooth.
 Another thing I started doing is adding a Floppy Rest to shoot off of. It still feels like you are shooting off your hand but the floppy really protects your hand.