Daniel, I've only worked with steam a couple of times. Everyone develops a work pattern that works for them. Tracy is correct you can steam the stave, BUT you have to quick with the clamping process. I think I remember PatB saying you have about 15 seconds to get it clamped. My limited experience say that's real close, 30 seconds maybe, 60 seconds and you're wasting your time. If I had a bunch of the hand squeeze type clamps instead of the screw down C-clamps, I might do more steaming. But, I just can't work fast enough to get the clamps on the stave. And you'll really need to put some shims under parts of the limb to raise the lower side of the twist. I just can't work that fast.
Here's a third way to remove you prop AND induce reflex all at the same time. This "might" be the best way to the job because it will do both at the same time. You can use you heat. There's no time clock on the clamping. You can straighten string alignment. And it's probably faster than the pipe wrench process. It does require you building a caul. I some times think I spend more time building tools, form and cauls than I do making bows.
Buy two 2x6 six feet long and a 1x6, six feet long. Mark the one 2x6 the way you want the reflex to be. There are several build-alongs on making cauls. Determine the length of bows that you're most likely to build. I mostly build 58" to 62" bows. So, I made my cauls 60" long. I like a 3" reflex. More than that it's difficult for me to do the early tillering. Less than 2" is not enough. Others will have there own thoughts and preferences. I'm just stating what works for me at the moment.
Layout one 2x6 with the reflex you want and cut it out. A bandsaw is best, but it can be done with a jigsaw. Mark down from the top curve 1 1/2". Cut out the bottom arch. Now you have a 1 1/2 by 1 1/2 arc. Use it to layout out your arc on the second 2x6. Cut the second 2x6. Match them together. Glue and screw them together. Drill pilot holes so they don't split on you.
Now you need to sand them smooth with no twists or dips on the top. Remember, you're going to be clamping your stave to them. If there is a dip or a twist in the top arc you'll have that same dip and twist in your stave. A belt sander is great and fast, but also great is quickly making a dip or twist. A rasp, sanding block and scraper can also be used.
Now you have an 1 1/2" deep by 3" wide arc. Lay it on the 1x6 and mark the 1x6. Cut out that arc. Now measure down 1 1/2 from the top of the arc on the 1 x 6. Lay the 1 1/2 x 3" arc on the line you just marked. Screw and glue them together. What you now have is a form with a 1 1/2 by 3" arc attached to a 1/6 with and 1 1/2 backing above that arc.
You're now ready to clamp down, straighten and untwist your stave. Reduce your stave to floor tillered. The less amount of wood you have to heat correct the better. Some might even take it to a full brace. Clamp the handle in the middle and on both ends of the handle section. The handle CAN'T move right or left or you will end up with one limb taking more reflex than the other limb. I know
If you just clamp the limb flat against the caul, you're more than likely going to still end up with some prop twist do to spring back after you unclamp it. I like to go 20% more than I need to allow for the spring back. So, you'll need to put shims under the stave in key places to create this addition correction. Also, if you need to align the string you can do that by clamping the stave to the backboard 1x6.
If you're doing string alignment and prop twist correction at the same time, you'll find that you'll need to loosen some clamps to allow the limb to move because you're clamping the stave horizonally and vertically at the same time.
Once you get the stave clamped heat slowly. Keep the gun 3 to 4 inches above the stave. Don't rush the process or you'll either not get enough heat to make the corrections or you'll scorch the wood. Do one section at a time starting at the handle. I do about 3 to 4 inches on one side of the handle then do the other side of the handle. I keep alternating this way until I get to the tips.
Plan for about an hour with the heat gun in your hand. Leave it on the caul at least over night. Wait at least 3 days for the wood to stabilize before working. So, it might as well stay on the caul that long anyhow.
