Newbe here just starting my first bow (maple board bow) looking for tips

[lostarrow]

 Yeah, but you know those guys from Ontario,............. they might tell you all kinds of BS.    Just wanted to let you know about the moisture thing because in my experience, when the maple blows (especially if it's too dry ) it doesn't give you any warning,and it goes off like a gunshot.Most every other wood will complain a bit before giving up.  Not trying to scare you ,just be aware is all. The grain doesn't look bad at all ,but you have to look at it from the ends,edges and the face to get the full picture. Is that the edges shown in the pics?

[Bsmitty27]

Would you suggest backing it?  I'll bring it in the house and try to convince my wife to keep it in the bathroom.   The pic will be the back of the bow. It's only 1 1/2 " wide.

[ionicmuffin]

i think 1.5 inches will work but it will take more set if you want to get a higher draw. 2 inches would take less set but will have a bit more massive, so its going to take set, you could bend the tips to reflex, but thats more that you have to work on. Set happens, its not going to stop the bow, just make a few fps slower and lower the draw a bit. not much of course.

[lostarrow]

Is the edge grain as good as the face? That will be the decision maker.  It looks to be rift sawn(end grain running  face to face on an angle.) I prefer this cut for board bows (some don't) A backing will sometimes save a less than perfect stave ,but it isn't a miracle maker.  It does tend to take some of the danger factor out if it blows ,but that's always a crap shoot. If the grain looks good, you don't need to back it. Lots of my bows are 1-1/2 " wide just start a little longer. Not a bad Idea for your first bow anyway. The tendency is to come in under target weight on first bows . If you leave it long,you can always Pike (shorten it ) to gain some weight.  Kitchen or bath is the most humid in the house ,just make sure it's not over the heat register. Just about anywhere (away from wood stoves and furnace ducts) in the house will be better than the garage when it gets cold.

[George Tsoukalas]

If you leave it at 1.5 in and 3/4 inch thick wide you'll get 50#, if you do your job. If you rip it to 1 3/8 in wide you'll get 45#. Your first will be easier to tiller without a glued on handle. Back it with linen, burlap or silk. More on my site. Jawge
http://georgeandjoni.home.comcast.net/~georgeandjoni/index.html

[jimmy]

I know everyone has their opinions.  This one is mine.  This bow is very smooth and accurate quick.  I have many fine bows made of Osage, but this maple board bow is good enough to hunt with or anything else.  It is 66" tip to tip.  1 1/8" wide, last 14" tapering to 3/8".  4" handle, 2" fades.  Handle is 3/4" thick.  At fades, limbs have an even thickness taper to 7/16" thick (6" from tips).  Last 6" of tips remain stiff.  Handle and fade sections are heavily heat treated to strengthen and prevent too much bend.  Handle is built up with leather and wrapped for comfort.  The handle will barely bend when fully drawn.  Make this bow and make it correctly and you won't be disapointed.  It is safe and effective.  Also, it only has about 3/4"-1" of set.

[Bsmitty27]

I would be ecstatic if mine turned out 1/4 as nice.
Thanks
Brad

[Bsmitty27]

Need a little more help. I am following the link posted by bub but was wondering what should be used to laminate the handle?  I was going to use a quality wood glue. But you guys would know best.
Thanks

[dmc]

Hey Brad, I have two maple board bows and a red oak board bow that were
glued up using Tite bond three. That stuffs works fantastic.
Best of luck.

[bubby]

any of the tight bond glues will work fine, Bub