Propeller removed from sinewd bow limb

[BowEd]

That's my project here.It will help to align the tips.I'm wondering if someone has done this a time or two and the results.The limbs are recurved midlimb on out to tips.I plan on using dry heat [belly side]with the limb in the vice and a pipe wrench with softer buffer wood in the jaws.Think the glue will hold up?

[BowEd]

Maybe some of you horn bow bowyers out there have more experience with this.

[Pappy]

I have done it with minimal twist,key is to heat really slow and just enough to get the limb to move. Not as hot as I usually would and they have turned out fine.
   Pappy

[Keenan]

Pappy said it right. Heat cautiously as you could ruin the sinew if you get to hot. Sometimes prop twist will happen if the sinew is thicker on one side,thus pulling uneven. If this is the case it will be more stubborn to remove as you will be fighting the sinew. I had that happen on one sinewed bow and after trying unsuccessfully to straighten, I ended up adding a little more sinew to the weaker side of the limb. If you are still plenty thick you might be able to slightly correct just by scraping appropriately

[ojibwatbowyer]

I got the same problem with a board bow with sinew on it, I intentionally over drew it though, wanted to see what would happen 

A frined of mine also over drew one of my sinewed short flat bows, it    draws 22" normally, man he must have drawn it to 26". It held but theres a crack along the lower limb, and the only thing holding it together is the sinew. its was pretty epic.

[Bryce]

Pull the limb just past where you want it to go then lay sinew down at an angle. So when it shrinks it pulls the limb over. And holds it in place.

[PEARL DRUMS]

Pappy and Keenan are right on. Ive done it with skinned bows as well. Heck I have moved sealed bows that never hurt the finish. Careful, slow heat and just enough is key. Hide glue will stick right back down if a tad lifts.

[BowEd]

Thanks fellas.....Good info for me.New ground to cover for me here too.I tried and did'nt get it to move much.The propeller is about 15 to 20 degrees from midlimb to tip.So I left it in.This bow does'nt have sinew the last 6" to the tip so I heated that slowly and twisted that with it in the vice and got lucky with the string alignment at brace pretty good.No twisting etc.Also one limb had more reflex than the other.Limbs were even thickness etc.So I steamed the sinew and bent it over my knee some to match it to the other limb.I put it in a 4 to 5 inch brace at about 45 to 50 pounds to get there and got lucky there too as the brace is just 1/8" positive tiller and looks good.These sinewd bows are different creatures for sure......LOL.This billeted 62"R/D cedar bow has developed over drying time of the sinew cracks along the side of both limbs now.Just down from the sinew line.Not big but hairline type and intermittent and so far just on one side.I'm filling them with thin superglue.I read Jim Hamms' statements about the sinew pulling sapwood on yew bows ripping it or delaminating it.This cedar bow is all heartwood but that might happen here too I don't know yet.I will pull and tiller it a lot closer to my draw weight and length today of 52 or 53 pounds @28".My other sinewed bow gained 6 to 7 pounds over the last few months with winter here from 58 to 65 pounds so I'm shooting lower this time......LOL.
I appreciate you guys insight here and I'm not on here every day as some are but will post my results.

[Marc St Louis]

It depends on the wood.  I tried it with a whitewood and it was ok but when I tried it on an Osage bow the sinew started to lift after awhile.

[BowEd]

Yea Marc I guess it can be a crap shoot once in a while.I'm not going to put birch bark on this bow till I've shot it at least 200 times.......LOL.

[Blacktail]

OR just sand down the heavy side of sinew...