Osage longbow

[Aries]

I am looking to make an Osage longbow for target shooting purposes.  The stave i am using is currently 77.5 in. long, and I have followed out my back ring throughly.
the whole of the bow has taken a backset of about 3 in.   
On one end, roughly 5 in. from the end of the stave, the wood takes a smooth kick back towards the belly of the bow. this kick cancels out the reflex the bow could have. I am looking for opinions on what to do in this situation.

This is to be a character bow, there are a few substantial knots in the wood, but nothing that cant be compensated for. I like to see the good things that can come out of not so good wood.

[Pat B]

Osage bends(or straightens) well with dry heat. You can remove the deflex to give you back the full effects of the natural reflex...or you could just go ahead and tiller the bow with the bent tip for more character.    Pat

[Aries]

Good idea. So say i straightened out my stave and have my 3in of back set. is the 77in an agreeable length for an osage bow. I want to keep it long (at or above 72) but dont know how well the wood suits this approach, or even if this extra length has any benifits. that is my quandry

[Pat B]

If you are using this bow for primarily target shooting I wouldn't go over 72". Osage will handle a longer length but your limbs will be carrying extra weight that isn't necessary. What draw weight are you shooting for?    Pat

[Hillbilly]

I definitely wouldn't worry about chopping 5" off a 77" osage stave. I usually make osage bows about 63." At 72", it should make a good narrow ELB-type bow.

[Aries]

I am planning on my draw length to be at 28".  Would leaving a narrow, static handle, on this design be agreeable? I dint like the massive archers paradox produced by a wide handle

[Hillbilly]

At that length, you wouldn't need much width with osage unless you're going for mega weight. 1" to 1 1/4" wide should be plenty for a bendy handled longbow design. If you want a stiff handle, I would cut the stave down to  at least 64-66" and make it about 1 1/2" fades to midlimb tapering to 3/8" tips.

[mullet]

  Everything Hillbilly said but,If it's a stiff handled ,I'd make it almost center shot on the rest.

[Pat B]

I built an osage ELB style bow with stiff handle that pulled over 50# and is a bit over an inch wide at the handle and tapered to 3/8" at the tips. This is a very accurate bow. The first 3 arrows out of it, before it was finished,  went into a 4" circle at 20 yards. I think the stiff handled ELB style bows were developed as target bows in the Victorian times in Great Brittan.      Pat

[Aries]

Thank ya kindly everybody. I think i am gonna settle with the bending handle, full length (77in.) bow. I will try to post some pics when it is done. btw its weight will between 50# and 60# when it is done.

[Pat B]

I just built a 48" bendy handle osage that pulls 54#@24". If you are gonna build your bow with a bendy handle you should shorten it. For a 77" osage target bow I would make it with a stiff handle area and whipy tips. You could safely have a 38" draw with a 77", bendy handle bow.     Pat

[Hillbilly]

Yep, listen to Pat. All that extra length you don't need is just dead weight slowing it down and adding handshock.