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Offline fishfinder401

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  • noel laflamme noellaf2@cox.net
stave help
« on: October 11, 2011, 12:54:58 am »
the questions are about two staves, one is the stave i needed an id on, and the last 2 questions are on a red maple stave i took the same day

#1- on the spice bush( or at least that's what it looks like it is) is was bent and  has 3ish inches of reflex in it, i was wondering if i should use the naturally reflexed side as the back, or because it was bent should it steam it straight and use the other side?
#2- does anyone have any info on if it is stronger in tension or compression and if not will i be fine with a 28 draw if it is around 5-1/2ft long with a bendy handle without knowing?

#3- the red maple didn't have much bend in it but when i was looking at the end grain the center seems to be shifted to one side, what does this mean for how i should orient the back to it?
#4- what are red maples strengths, i am going to try to see what weight i can get out of it and i am keeping it very long, but i am curious about known limitations

thanks allot- this site is a fountain of knowledge

noel
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Offline PEARL DRUMS

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Re: stave help
« Reply #1 on: October 11, 2011, 01:12:05 pm »
I have no clue on either. Just try and find out Noel. Just that simple! Have fun.
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Offline Elktracker

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  • Josh
Re: stave help
« Reply #2 on: October 11, 2011, 01:24:38 pm »
#1 I would use the reflexed side as the back, I am not familiar with the wood so I would take some of the reflex out to maybe one inch of reflex instead of 3.

#2 The best way to determin the tension side it to mark it before it is cut, the side facing up or the side that gets the most wind or if it has any lean to it before being cut the side oposite that it is leaning is usually the tension wood.

#3 I would use whatever side works best for the layout of the bow so that everything lines up nicely.

#4 cant help on this one.

Josh
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Josh Vance  Netarts OR. (Tillamook)

Offline Pat B

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Re: stave help
« Reply #3 on: October 11, 2011, 01:29:32 pm »
Remove the bark and find the best side to be the back. That is where the strength of a wood bow is so that, IMO is the most important area to concentrate on.
  When dealing with unknown woods always work on the safe side by making the bow as wide as you can(within reason) and as long as you can(also within reason)!
  Red maple is a marginal bow wood at best. Try to set up your red maple so the thicker rings are centered down the back.
  A few years ago one of the new guys cut a spice bush bow stave but I'm not sure if he completed the bow. It may have been Youngbowyer but I'm not sure of that either.
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Offline fishfinder401

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  • noel laflamme noellaf2@cox.net
Re: stave help
« Reply #4 on: October 11, 2011, 02:58:34 pm »
thanks for the replys, i think i ahve enough infromation to start ruffing them out with a hatchet  ;D ;D
one other question though, from what i understand with a normal stave it takes 6months to a year to fuly dry and season, is it the same with a sapling that has been rughed out, or is it less
thanks
noel
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warbows and fishing, what else is there to do?
modern technology only takes you so far, remove electricity and then what

Offline Elktracker

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Re: stave help
« Reply #5 on: October 11, 2011, 03:07:05 pm »
Noel with white woods I have roughed out a bow and let it dry for 3 months and it was good to go but it depends on the conditions you are drying it in. I had mine in my front room and my wood stove is in there so it tends to be pretty dry in there. I also leave my ceiling fan on durring the day to circulate the heat around the house. If you have a scale weigh it and see when it stops losing weight.

Josh
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my friends think my shops a mess, my wife thinks I have too much bow wood, my neighbors think im redneck white trash and they may all be right on the money!!

Josh Vance  Netarts OR. (Tillamook)

Offline Pat B

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Re: stave help
« Reply #6 on: October 11, 2011, 05:06:36 pm »
To begin with you don't want to dry it too fast. Remove the bark and seal the back and ends. Then shape your stave to floor tiller stage. It will dry in as little as a few weeks with most white woods. Ideally you want to season any bow wood for at least a year and more is better but you can force dry a stave with pretty good results.
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Make the most of all that comes and the least of all that goes!    Pat Brennan  Brevard, NC

Offline fishfinder401

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  • noel laflamme noellaf2@cox.net
Re: stave help
« Reply #7 on: October 11, 2011, 08:05:52 pm »
 :'( :'( :'( :'( :'( :'( :'( :'( :'( i sealed the ends the same day i cut it, and debarked it a day later, and now it has a crack running the entire length of the spicebush sapling, if it were just this, i would split it out and still be happy, but here is the thing that amazes me....... it made a 360 degree turn,  guess this thing was under a huge amount of stress, was it somethng i did, or was this destined to happen
i think i will split it out and try to clamp it straight while it is still green, but i don't ave high hopes
is it possibly still salvageable
thanks
noel
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warbows and fishing, what else is there to do?
modern technology only takes you so far, remove electricity and then what

Offline Pat B

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Re: stave help
« Reply #8 on: October 11, 2011, 08:51:17 pm »
It must have grown spiraled. That is common on lots of trees and shrubs. Studying the bark carefully will generally indicate this spiral growth. On smooth bark trees it is more difficult.
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Make the most of all that comes and the least of all that goes!    Pat Brennan  Brevard, NC
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