helpwithash

[butch]

i just cut a load of white ash 6-10 dia. wide grain to tight . 6--8 ft.  straight to reflexed . now wich is most likely to make a bow..    i shoot 55 lbs. 26 in. draw.      i have most tools and some skills.  except typing... wanted to make my own bow for 60 yrs. now i have time.  ive split many cords for fuel and didnt know  how hard it is to come out with a good stave..   
 need to know how long --wide ect.   what design to try... just got bower#1.     
   really thank you folks for your help with us skralls..   oh.. where can i get the idiots guide to skrewing up a perfectly good stave....    mutch grass
             butch   

[Pat B]

Butch, I have only built a few ash bows and haven't been real lucky with them. If you have TBB#1 read Paul Comstock's "other bow woods" and Tim Baker's "design and performance" and you will be on your way. Anything else you can get here on PA. Sorry I can help more.     Pat

[Hillbilly]

I've made several white ash bows, really like it and think it's under rated as bow wood. Keep it dry like hickory, it's another one of those humidity sponge woods. 68" long, and 2" wide to a little past mid limb tapering to 1/2" nocks works great, as does a semi-pyramid tapering straight from 2"-2 1/4" or so at the fades. Ash also makes great Eastern Woodlands-style D-bows. Check out Yew archer's Potowatomi replica thread.

[SimonUK]

You've picked a good wood to start with ...simple, strong and easy to dry.

If it's anything like UK ash, it would be better to pick a growth ring deeper in the log for the back of your bow... say about 1/2 inch into the log. On the other hand I've heard it said that you can use the outermost ring if the wood looks good.

What's mutch grass? Muchas gracias?

Good luck 

[snedeker]

As a point of reference, I just completed a white ash selfbow from a stave, that is 69" long between the nocks, draws 62# at 31", thick ringed, and is 1 7/8" wide at the fades.  I heated treated in about 2" of reflex, after a lot of work out it had a touch of set now.   Here's what I would suggest for your needs.   Usea thick ringed stave, straight or with some reflex.  Go about 65" long from nock to nock, 7" handle area betwen 1 3/4" fades.  To start out, from mid limb, taper to about 5/8" wide 6" from tip, and then to 1/2".  Get the tiller going and later slim down the tips.

Dave

[butch]

thank you  thank you
it looks like i should start with comstock.....  horsefeathers??
will start splitting-shapeing - drying .
that will keep me going for an hour or two..
it shure is nice to have instant advise from true craftsmen around the world.

[TRACY]

Butch, I agree with hillbilly and Simon. I have followed Comstock's advice on building it long and wide-limbed and found it to be a great shooting bow. The only disadvantage I have found is that the woodboring insects like it also and waste no time trespassing on bow wood. I have made bows that are good shooters up to about 60lbs unbacked. Go slow when tillering, as with any wood, to reduce string follow. Good luck and have fun! 

[George Tsoukalas]

butch, nice to hear you are wanting to make a bow. You could take one of the staves and reduce it to near bow dimensions. I'm going to depart just a bit from the above though you got good advice above for sure. I just think first bows that bend in the handle are easier to tiller for the first timer. I'd go 1.5 inches wide   the whole length of the bow except for the last 10 inches where I would slowly taper to 1/2 inch nocks. I would leave the handle 1/5 inches wide. You could start making the bow now just leave the nocks wide about 1 inch. Start floor tillering and actually bending the limbs a couple of inches. it will dry faster. While you are waiting go get yourself a straight grained board and have at it. There's much more on my site and the url will appear below.  There are some buildalongs that may help you. Jawge