Experiment to fix a bow problem......(Results are in)

[hillbilly61]

Un Friggin real. Honestly, I can't tell the 2 pics apart.

[johnston]

Looking at the pic's very closely I can't help but notice that this is what is meant by "perfect tiller". Way cool experiment old dog you 'da man.

Lane

[ken75]

thanks for the post Rich answers some questions. great bow and excellent full draw !

[Bow Nut]

Very interesting never would have thought to add a lam to the belly my self either.  lookes like it worked out great.  Thanks for posting this.  Learn somthing new everyday on here.

[toomanyknots]

Damn Rich that turned out great.

[George Tsoukalas]

Looks great, half eye. Jawge

[half eye]

Thanks for the gratious comments, fellas....we'll see what the new owner thinks, eh?

[fusizoli]

Learning something again. Like this kind of post a lot!

After glue up, how much time it needs to start the work with again?

The maple lam was heat treated?

[half eye]

fusizoli,
      I all ways let my Tite-Bond II cure out for 24 hrs before I stress the glue joint. If I glue on a grip riser etc. I'll rough cut it to shape maybe 4-6 hours after glue-up but that is it.
      I do not heat treat wood (like with a heat gun) weather it lives or fails, I allways use the wood just the way it is. The only thing that I do to help the belly withstand compression (or the back with tension) for a longer time is apply a mixture of pitch and grease (50/50 mix) just prior to tillering and for as long as the bow lives after that.
      Also if you use any of the titebond glues, and then try to heat treat you will make the joint go weak or come apart alltogether.
That's just how I do it.....maybe some of the other fellas know more "tricks" than I do.
rich

[MWirwicki]

Great idea!  Will have to try this myself.  Great post.

[fusizoli]

Thanks Rich for all the information from your methods!

I ve meant pre treated, not after glue up.

Cheers Z