Swamp,
The cable can be tensioned to any degree you wish. Basically it is a matter of more turns equal more draw weight/ tension. Most of mine were only about 3 to 5 turns. That means the string spoons which only get a half turn at a time so ya got to go between 6 to 10, 1/2 turns. On shorter bows that's usually enough to go upward about 10-15 pounds of "weight".
Your second question: The cables are wrapped to bind them down (except for the four passes at the grip which pass through the cable) so they have winding tension on them.....pull the four wraps in the grip area and the cable will will un-wrap by it self. I can only assume this was done with the bow unbraced to minimize the the overall cable tension.....but couldn't swear to it.
The grip brace (belly side) is simply an unglued "belly lamination" and is used to change the profile of the bow. Mine was too thin and allowed too much bend in the center....a thicker one would have put more bend toward the outer limbs. But overall I think if you went with 1/4 to 1/8 inch thick pieces you would be pretty close to what ya need....since they are tied in, you can tweek" @ one to suit the particular bow.
You will find it easiest to wrap your main cable first, then place your rawhide, then do the cable wrapping and soldier hitches. The main cable adds weight and the hitches keep the limbs bound together (stabilize the wood) and locate the cable on the long axis.
hope that answers your questions.....if not please email me at
rousseau.rd@att.net....happy to help if I can.
rich
