It's arrow time.

[billmac]

Well, Justin and I turned out our first bow this weekend.  Got a string made and shot it a few times with arrow I have for my compound.  So now I guess we have to turn our attention to arrows, so I have a bunch of questions.

I have the 3/8" dowel maker from Lee Valley.  I'll probably start with some pine or spruce 2x4s for shafts.  3/8 is a little large so I'll probably barrel taper to reduce weight and adjust the spine by sanding the center of the shaft.

For barrel tapering, is there a particular angle that is recommended?

I'll probably start with some glue on field points and nocks.  What's a good, inexpensive glue?  What taper should I use for them (assuming the vendor doesn't specify)?

Anyone have plans for a good homemade fletching jig?

Any other tips are welcome.  Thanks.  Bill

[Pat B]

Bill, The taper for the nock and points are 11deg and 5deg respectively but self nocks are easy and don't cost anything but time and a little thread. A good glue for points and nocks is Duco, available everywhere and cheap. Works for fletching also...depending on your arrow finish. I also use hoy melt archery glue.
   I have never done a barrol taper but I think the length of the taper is easier to figure than the degree of taper. For your arrows, use the straightest stock with the straightest grain you can find.
   I have a JoJan fletching jig but have hand fletched with good success. Someone, a year or so ago, had a small gizmo to aid in hand fletching. Might have been Jamie or Jamie.  It is a piece of cardboard or simular stuff with a hole in the center and slits cut where the fletchings go. Simple to make and easy to work.   Pat

[Dustybaer]

yep, here it is: http://www.primitiveways.com/fletching_jig.html

[Pat B]

Thanks Marius. That's the one!   Pat

[Justin Snyder]

Barrel tapering is larger diameter in the center of the shaft and smaller on both ends. This will increase the spine of a shaft.  If you wand to decrease the weight and spine you either need to taper front to back so the extra weight is up front or decrease the whole shaft.  Look at the plate that Dana made for making shafts. He sent me one and it is really cool.  It will reduce the shaft by 1/32" at a time. You could reduce the shafts to a more appropriate start size.  http://www.primitivearcher.com/smf/index.php/topic,1854.0.html     
I have been experimenting with his shaft maker and when I get a little more time I will post more info on how I'm using it.   Justin

[Hillbilly]

Yeah, 3/8" is pretty big unless you're shooting a 75# bow. Most of my hardwood shoot arrows are 5/16" for mid-50's bow weights. I only draw 26" though.

[StanM]

I'll try to post a link to a build-a-long that I did a little bit ago.  I hope it works.

Stan

http://tradgang.com/cgi-bin/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic;f=1;t=043864

[billmac]

So do you folks adjust spine on the bare shafts, and then again when the nocks and points are on?  I assume the point at least alters the spine.

Also, what end tapering dimensions do you use if using self nocks and your own trade points?  I assume that it is different than with glue on nocks and points.

Thanks again

[Pat B]

Bill, The standard for testing spine on arrows is with an arrow cut 28" then placed on a tester with uprights spaced at 26" apart, and a 2# weight hung in the center. The standard is also with a point that weighs 125gr.  Any thing under or over 28" you add(or subtract) 5# per inch of length. All of this is done on a bare shaft(not necessary).
  For trade points, I use the same taper as with a glue on point and slot it to accept the trade point. I leave the nock end as is, cut in the self nock and trim that area to be comfortable then wrap with thread set in glue.  Pat

[jamie]

bill if you have the large dowel cutter it should have the 5/16th collet included. get some hard maple with straight grain. it averages between 40-45lbs for a 5/16th shaft. as for the taper grinding would be best but a tapertool from an archery supply like 3 rivers would work.

[jamie]

as for tapering i prefer sanding the tapers in but a block plane will work . just take off as little as possible with each stroke so as not to tear the grain. mark the shaft in 3" intervals from the end of the shaft with a pencil completly around the shaft. do 3 of these marks from the tip end and 4 from the nock end . remove one set of marks at a time and you will end up with a smooth taper. after removing a mark check the diameter of the shaft before proceeding to the next set to make sure you dont undersize the tip. always do your point tapers before tapering the shaft or you will have a hell of a time getting a point to fit properly. peace