best backing glue?

[deermaster]

what is a good glue that does not require heat to cure for backing bows with hickory or bamboo? thanks for any info!

[Pat B]

Urac 185 is the best wood/wood glue and it doesn't require heat but it is helpful. Urac will cure at room temp. 
Tite-Bond III is another that works well. I would recommend either for use with hickory or boo backings but depending on what your belly wood is, one might work better than the other.   Pat

[Hillbilly]

Any of the tightbond wood glues apparantly work well, a lot of people use the TB 3 because of it's waterproof properties. I don't think smooth-on epoxy requires heat curing either, but I'm not sure. Maybe someone with more laminated bow experience will chime in soon.

[Hillbilly]

Looks like we were typing at the same time, Pat.

[Justin Snyder]

Smooth-on  does not require heat.  I like smooth-on with boo.  They all have good and bad so the best is a matter of oppinion.  Justin

[ridge]

 My opinion on glues is wood to wood urac. Smooth on instructions call for at least 150 to 180 degrees cooking time. If you let it cure at say 70% it may fail if it gets hot. I make a lot of glass bows and wood to wood urac, wood to glass smoothon is best for me.My bows stay together so i,ll stick to my way. Good luck whichever you use.

[Justin Snyder]

My smooth-on says standard dry time is 16 hours at 25*C or just under 80*F.  It cures faster at higher temps up to 100*C.  I use it in the house at 72* all the time. Justin

[Jesse]

Im a beginer but resorcinol seems to work great for me. Im pretty sure it only has to be 70 deg.

[Wolfgang]

Hi over there,

what the heck is urac / urac185??? Probably not Utilization Review Accreditation Commission, a nonprofit organization promoting healthcare quality (Wikipedia).

By the way, I took Titebond (I) for backings, but as a 1:1 dilution with tap water to make it less viscous & better soak and attach the sinews, and to have less  glue remaining in between the sinews. Anybody else having experience with that idea?

Is there anybody having experience with flax or other plant materials for backing purposes? We don't have easy access to sinews from deer and so in Germany

Cheers,

Wolfgang

[PatM]

It is fair to say that ALL Epoxy glues benefit from elevated cure temperatures. The misconception is that you need to complicate matters with a heat box and precise  temp control.
 You can obtain very good results by just letting the glue cure overnight and then "post curing" by placing the bow in a higher temperature area for several hours.
 This could be in a car left in the sun etc.
 As long as you expose the curing glue to an elevated temperature during the curing phase you can obtain the maximum benefits.
 Full cure of Epoxy usually takes about a week and you can apparently post cure in this window of time.

[Jake Levi]

Years ago both Dean Torges and Jaap Kopedrayer told me their first choice for backings is Urac, that was good enough for me, both at times use/have used hide glue but now its all urac.

Since then I have used Titebond, and now use Titebond 3 for most all non critical jobs, or small jobs, the T3 cures slower so has advantages, it does want an overnight drying time to be safe. Two days to be sure.

For backing most of my bows I use sinew with hide glue.

[The Gopher]

i use titebond II for cloth backings such as linen, titebond III or Urac for wood to wood.