Author Topic: When to sinew a bow  (Read 10094 times)

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Offline bubby

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Re: When to sinew a bow
« Reply #15 on: January 25, 2010, 02:52:14 am »
their is a video on you tube, asian style bows, and the ol' boy laid the sinew on the bow and combed it out quite a bit, smoothed it up nice
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Offline ricktrojanowski

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Re: When to sinew a bow
« Reply #16 on: January 25, 2010, 09:51:29 pm »
JW Halverson. Thanks for sharing that tip on the combing technique.  Do you use a plastic or metal comb or does it matter?

I've only sinewed one bow it was an ERC stave. I only took it to lightly floor tillered because I was nervous about the fragile nature of ERC. Unfortunately it blew up shortly after final tillering was complete.  I'm ready to start a short sinewed Osage, I plan on getting it to about 3/4 of intended draw length (20"or so) then sinewing.  I figure it will be that much closer to final tiller than if I sinewed at floor tiller stage. 
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Offline El Destructo

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Re: When to sinew a bow
« Reply #17 on: January 25, 2010, 10:36:19 pm »
Rick....I use a Dog Flea Comb that I bought from Pet Smart...it's Stainless Steel...and it works good to straighten out the Sinew Fibers once soaked in Glue
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Offline hedgeapple

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Re: When to sinew a bow
« Reply #18 on: January 26, 2010, 02:26:06 am »
A backstrap sinew question:  I have a short, 53" hickory D-bow, width 1 1/8, 47# at 26".  I made this from a scrap piece I split off a stave for another bow.  It's a straight taper from handle to 1/2" tip.  From what little I know, I think I've max-ed out this little piece of wood.  I'm thinking of putting 1 layer of sinew on the back for protection, mostly.

If I use backstrap sinew can I just glue whole backstrap piece on the bow ?
Dave   Richmond, KY
26" draw

Offline JW_Halverson

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Re: When to sinew a bow
« Reply #19 on: January 28, 2010, 07:34:54 pm »
Ya know, Hedgie, I been wondering that myself for some time.  I have never heard of it or seen it, but that does not mean it will not work. 

I think the problem will be in how some of the sinew is thicker and stronger than other areas, hard to get a consistent tension and it may mess up the tiller really badly.  But since you are using your own sinew and stave, and not one of mine, I will "let" you try it out providing you post your results here!
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Offline hedgeapple

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Re: When to sinew a bow
« Reply #20 on: January 28, 2010, 07:49:26 pm »
JW, haha  Thanks.  I see what your saying about the sinew being thicker/stronger in some areas.  Like it tend to be somewhat thinner toward the shoulders than it is nearer the hips.  I've never used sinew at all, so it's all new to me.  Is it normal practice to really watch the individual strands to alternate thick and thin areas?  After all the individual strands would have a thick end and a thin end also?    What might be an option would be to split the wider backstrap sinew piece into 4 strips.  Then I could easily alternate ends.  ? ? ?
Dave   Richmond, KY
26" draw

Offline FVR

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Re: When to sinew a bow
« Reply #21 on: January 28, 2010, 11:43:02 pm »
I did that once.  I had two long pieces of back sinew and put on on the top half and one on the bottom half.  I worked okay but I did not get the results that I wanted.  This is why I usually use leg sinew on the back of the bow.  I will use back sinew when I wrap the limbs or after I've already put a few layers of leg sinew on the limbs, I will finish up with a layer of back sinew.

I don't comb out my sinew but rather use a plastic pen and run it down over the sinew.  It will straighten out the sinew nicely, not as nicely as a comb.  I like a more rough look on the back of the bow because I don't cover the sinew with snakeskin.

As far as sealing, 7 coats of clear spraypaint followed by 4 coats of wax.  This seals the sinew real good, to the point where I hunt in the rain with my sinew backed bows.
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Offline JW_Halverson

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Re: When to sinew a bow
« Reply #22 on: January 30, 2010, 09:02:55 pm »
Jay Massey was famous for hunting sinew backed bows in the rain, but his finish of choice was the 2 part epoxy thinned down with acetone.  I imagine he had a pretty good handle on checking moisture content BEFORE laying up the finish!
Guns have triggers. Bicycles have wheels. Trees and bows have wooden limbs.