fixing the stress on the back of red oak bow.

[Terrible_Savage]

Howdy yall

I am on the final legs of a self bow someone is paying me for, it is red oak with grain and rings quite straight from one end to the other (since this guy is paying I pillaged two home depots and a Lowes to find this damm plank).

It was still a bit heavy maybe 80#? and I am creeping up on the target weight (45-50) not yet pulling to full draw when I notice a slight, almost non existent hinge and on the back right there are little splinters rectangular in shape about a sixty second wide by maybe three sixteenths long, two, one popped off, I left the other, there is another that kind of loosens up about the same size. This all becomes visible only when I draw, at ease all is smooth.

I worked it down close to my desired weight and the tiller is almost perfect so I left the thing under my bed where the hot air vent makes a nice hot box, heated up some tightbond3 in a bowl of hot water to get it nice and runny, then I rubbed that glue in while the bow was strung rubbing it all the way nock to nock so whatever effect it has on stain will be uniform, unstrung it and it's back under my bed.

now I'm wondering, is all lost? will it work?? tomorrow I'm going to sand it smooth with 220 grit but if that glue is stronger than wood it should work right? this is the glue I use to make curved handrails (that's what I do for a living) and I'm just hoping.... >_<   

of course there is nothing new under the sun so some one here has had to try this before, did it work? do you live in Timbuktu now?

[George Tsoukalas]

Sure you could wrap it with art. sinew, etc set in glue. It's a board. Just get another board. I wouldn't fool with it especially if someone is paying for the bow. Jawge

[makenzie71]

First, even though I do it I still suggest against it...never pull your bow beyond your desired draw weight and length.  That being said...if a few splinters have lifted without any cracking or anything else, it should be fine with a good backing.  Laying glue on it does not constitute a backing.  I'm always going to suggest bamboo from now on...but anything continuous will work.  I would avoid the lighter stuff like paper.  Go straight for rawhide or bamboo or hickory.

Of course, your description is vague...pictures would help.

I also would be leary of giving a board with lifted splinters away.

[sulphur]

pics would help, but i am with Jawge, start another.  I know sometimes its hard to find good boards but if someone is paying you....i have stress even when i know a bow is good and strong and shot several hundred arrows.