Author Topic: Staves sawn from twisted elm  (Read 2291 times)

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Offline snedeker

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Staves sawn from twisted elm
« on: June 25, 2009, 01:35:38 pm »
A friend gave me an elm trunk last summer, about 8" in diameter.  I split it then and it had  a 90 degree twist. i.e., the back at one end of the stave was fully perpendicular to the back at the other end.  To potentially get something out of it, I cut a few straight staves out of it with a circular saw.  These then have a continuous non-violated ring on the back, but obviously the grain runs off multiple times.  DO you think the interlocking grain of elm would hold for a selfbow?  Alternatively, a fabric backing would probably work.

Dave

Offline John K

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Re: Staves sawn from twisted elm
« Reply #1 on: June 25, 2009, 01:38:01 pm »
I think it will. Elm is some tuff stuff !
The only way to fail is to never start !

coyote pup

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Re: Staves sawn from twisted elm
« Reply #2 on: June 25, 2009, 01:46:02 pm »
I wouldn't worry about the grain running off if it's red elm. Elm's grain interlocks like mad. (if you've never worked it before try filing it- it's nearly impossible to get it smooth until you sand it). And with a draw knife you are constantly having to turn your knife around and go one way, then turn and go back the other. 

Offline snedeker

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Re: Staves sawn from twisted elm
« Reply #3 on: June 25, 2009, 02:03:11 pm »
Thanks. 


Pup, its American (white) elm

Dave

Offline JackCrafty

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Re: Staves sawn from twisted elm
« Reply #4 on: June 25, 2009, 02:16:40 pm »
If the bow will be on the longish side, it's probably not a problem.  Personally, I would not use it for a short, high-stress bow.  Elm is pretty tough....but not nearly as tough as hickory, for example.
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DCM

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Re: Staves sawn from twisted elm
« Reply #5 on: June 25, 2009, 02:22:10 pm »
I think the problem will be limb twist when you tiller it.  I would not assume without testing that the limbs will need to be equal thickness across their width, depending upon how the grain runs.  You can move elm around quite a bit.  If the handle is fairly straight, you can work the limbs back to straight enough, given enough patience, heat and correct cycles.