About to splice - help

[Pat B]

If you can, seal the back of the area you steamed or at least watch it well because as the moisture leaves the wood it could cause checking. Pat

[Badger]

  Couple of little things to remember when cutting splices, I always get the belly side of the splice perfectly flat and square before I cut, I also use a square on the bandsaw blade before cutting, if the wood is crooked I aim the center line of the splice at the tip of the limb and draw my lines from there. I do a lot of splicing and got tired of going for a perfect fit on all of them so I switched to smooth on epoxy for my glue and use four clamps. I am going to try Marks method for more center shot bows, presently I cut my splice at 7/8 wide 4" long and dont narrow the arrow pass much afterward. Steve

[ravenbeak]

thanks guys,

I think for the future I will look into getting some urac 185. 

for this one I used regular carpenters "yellow" glue,  after reading it would be ok in tbb vol 1.  I hope it works out.

I am considering doing a build up on the back or belly, or both to add some more strength as I really don't want this one to come apart.

I was also thinking of tightly wrapping the splice with linen string and soaking in wood glue,  hoping this will add a bit.

[DCM]

If your joints are good, carpenters glue is stronger than the surrounding wood.  But I have always used URAC.  I prefer W splices too, for the extra surface area, which is absolutely essential and basically "free."

Steves comments about flat surfaces, properly angled for the setback or deflex you want I'd add.  Also having a perfect 90 on your bandsaw.

I don't pin splices, but the rationale is to get the fit just like you want, deflex/reflex or whatever, then run the pin holes.  Then when you assemble w/ glue it's easy to get back exactly to that config w/ the dowels as an aid.  Anybody whose done many splices knows they can get pretty squirrelly once the slick glue gets on.  Pins do not improve the joint necessarily, but should not much impair the joint either.  Least not enough to matter, on a properly fit W.  Some really good bowyers do pin, but for the aforementioned reason.

Right or wrong, I try to put my arrow pass at the top, if you will, of the W.