mulberry advice

[PirateSurferDude]

Hey everyone,

I would appreciate any and all advice on preparing some mulberry logs in varying sizes from 3'' to 8''inches in diameter that I cut the previous two weekends.  The biggest logs are straight and have very few if any knots.  The smallest are straight but had branches growing off the sides.  I have sealed the ends with Titebond II glue and placed them in my outdoor shed.  Due to time constraints, (family, work, etc.), I don't have a lot of time to dive right into them with the "fast" curing methods so I would rather take a methodical slow approach.  However, I would prefer to get them down to a somewhat stave size over a period of several months or six months and then finish them out over the next couple of years.

My biggest concerns are insect damage and overdrying, cracking, warping, etc.  My outdoor shed is not shaded and gets pretty hot during the summer.  It is ventilated pretty good, has a window and open soffit around the rafters.

Should I split, remove bark and sapwood and seal the backs?  The smallest couple of logs would be useless to split, but I definitely will split the largest logs at some point.  I would like to make the typical flat bows with some handle and D-bow designs and might even make one ELB.

Any advice would be appreciated.  I have made some really nice hickory bows about 5 years ago before some family circumstances took top priority.  Sorry for the long post.

[mullet]

  I treat Mulberry just like Osage. I'd remove the bark and sapwood and seal the backs. If my staves are  going to sit outside for a long time I spray them with a bug spray.

[Pat B]

I do the same as Eddie. If you can't get the bark off soon use an insecticide on the bark to kill any bugs that may hatch and start eating.  Try to at least split the bigger logs in half to help with moisture elimination.    Pat

[Auggie]

Spray to kill! Like said split bigguns in half, seal the ends,stave size stuff you might even think of clamping to a good strait board,Ive had mullberry,and persimmon twist up, wished I d takien the time to clamp it now.Oh, I take the bark off everything before storage,and spray to kill!

[PirateSurferDude]

Thanks for the advice guys!  My next task will be to split the bigger logs into halves.  Could anyone please tell me what they usually spray onto staves or logs to keep pests from penetrating and damaging the wood?  Thanks.

[mullet]

  I still have Diazanon and Malathion. Ran out of Clordane Any good bug spray works.

[ozarkcherrybow]

As already said, take off the bark and sapwood.  I would just like to stress how much less work it is to take them down to heartwood while still green.  The bugs can be dealt with easy enough with insecticides, but If you have taken off the bark and sapwood from a cured stave of Mulberry, you will appreciate the effort involved in taking it down on a green stave. Just be sure to seal the freshly exposed heartwood with a good sealer, like shellac. My favorite bow is a Mulberry.  Oh, and those limbs may just go away the further down you get into the growth rings......Terry

[kayakfisher]

I have several mullberry stave's left,the ones I didn't take to mojam last year.Take the bigger logs drive a hatchet into one end to get split started,drive wedges to split. Split in halves,then quarters if big enough. If quarters are still to big place in bow vise and run skill saw down the middle of the back. Place wedges in this groove or crack to split quarters wont ruin them that way. After they all are split place one at a time in bow vice take draw knife remove bark. paint all ends and back good [I used polyurathane varnish neigbor gets it by 5 gallon bucket full] place in your shed. Thats about two hours work for me doesn't take that long.My shed gets pretty hot in summer time didn't hurt them abit. They will turn a dark nasty color on top when they really start to dry out,if they do just scrape them off and recoat. The smaller logs make good billets especially for trading,cheaper shipping.
                                  note!!!! if there still green should be able to wedge draw knife under one end of bark and just peel it right off like a bannana             

Dennis

[Pat B]

Hey Dude. I have made successful bows using some sapwood with mulberry so that is also an option, especially with the poles.    Pat

[shamus]

treat it like osage. I'd get the bark and sap off if you can, then seal it. If you can;t get the bark off, then spray it with malathion.

More of my thoughts here: http://analogperiphery.blogspot.com/2008/08/drying-and-seasoning-wood.html

Mulberry is a favorite wood of mine. Design it like osage, but a touch wider. Design considerations: http://analogperiphery.blogspot.com/2008/05/osage-flat-bow-dimensions.html

[PirateSurferDude]

Thanks for all of the great tips and advice.  I feel better now that I have seen a good consensus about how to treat and proceed with mulberry.  I was wondering one last thing though, has anyone seen major differences from one mulberry log or stave performance wise after all was finished and shooting as it related to the early-late wood ratio?  I was looking last night at the various pieces I cut from the same stump/tree (the logs were shoots if you will off the same tree or root) and I noticed most did not have a very good early-late wood ratio.  However, one of the 4.5"" ones had an excellent ratio.  How much does this matter if you still have pretty good growth rings?  Just wondering.