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91
Bows / Where to lose 2 or 3#
« Last post by bentstick54 on January 16, 2026, 11:38:10 pm »
Working on an osage bow and need to lose the final 2 to 3# of draw weight. Limb on the right is the top limb and has a little bit of twist between verticle lines 1 and 3, right out of the fade. It feels good in the hand at release.
1-3/4” wide at the fades, straight tapering to 3/8” tips. 66” ntn.
Would you tweek the tiller somewhere at this point, or sand the edges down to just lose the weight?
92
Bows / Re: Osage orange design?
« Last post by bentstick54 on January 16, 2026, 08:08:42 pm »
I’m with Arvin, aka Selfbowman. I wood trim the ends enough to see what the rings look like, mark how you want to try to split, and reseal the ends. I like 67” ttt , or 66” ntn flat bows. 1-1/2” to 1-3/4” wide at the fades tapering to 3/8” to 1/2” tips. Produces a durable, good shooting bow at about any draw weight. Once split, bark and sapwood removed, and the back sealed, set aside to dry. When you get ready to make a bow, get the limb thickness thinned to 5/8” to 3/4”, and dry heat will take out the bend in the end.
93
Bows / Re: Broken Bow
« Last post by simk on January 16, 2026, 05:23:12 pm »
superdave, the hideglue repair I did use sucessfully for the repair of sinewbacking that lifted certain spots. for fine woodcracks i'd consider you need to thin it well. then you have very minimal glue and probably not fill the gaps after drying?

sleek, Glue are a interesting topic. I didnt say west systems is a bad choice for bowmaking - so many people using it sucessfully, cannot be bad. I havent used that one. but these glues are made to stay in place after application. you can cheat them with heat a little. then the resin is made to instantly creep and spread. you cannot make a bow unless thicken it with "thixotropic agents" - ;D thats what they sell them as. In my case I use cotton flakes to adjust viscosity. makes my cheap goto epoxy for almost 10 years now. resin l by r&g, germany. the resin must be mixed very precisely by weight. I use the expensive stuff only for the very critical parts, like tips and hornjoints.
94
Bows / Re: Broken Bow
« Last post by Arrowbuster on January 16, 2026, 04:54:19 pm »
Lots of good intel on this site I knew you guys would have some ideas. I think I will try the resin, that never crossed my mind it should work fine. Arvin if your bows are even better you are going to have to put me on the list for another one. I have made a few trying to get close to that one but I still don't have the skill. That bow shot amazing and was pretty dang fast. I broke it a few years ago and put it on a shelf thinking I might get back to it and try to repair, now is the time, I now have confidence in trying to fix it.
95
Bows / Re: Broken Bow
« Last post by Selfbowman on January 16, 2026, 04:51:07 pm »
My dates aren’t lining up . Can you still see the numbers on the bow?
96
Bows / Re: Broken Bow
« Last post by Selfbowman on January 16, 2026, 04:15:51 pm »
That bow was built in July of 2015 I think. Serial number should be 175715 bow number 175. I gotten better since then . I’m on 341 now.🤠🤠🤠
97
Horn Bows / Re: Horn bow x 2 build along.
« Last post by superdav95 on January 16, 2026, 03:26:37 pm »
Impressive Dave...they look great.   :OK

Thanks Bob.  Much appreciated
98
Horn Bows / Re: Korean horn bow. while im waiting...
« Last post by superdav95 on January 16, 2026, 03:23:32 pm »
It looks like a museum quality piece Dave...it's amazing.  It's even better since you designed it to be more easily strung and used.  A hunting bow.     :OK

Thanks Bob!  Very kind.  I may try that.   
99
Welcome to the dark side of bows!   We don’t get much action over here but when we do it’s on! That’s an ambitious list of bows you got planned.  I can do what I can to answer some of your questions where I dare to.  I’m no expert either but have made some horn bows over the years.  Adam’s book was my main resource actually and made some of my own personal tweeqs along the way.  Here are a few thoughts from your list.  As for a single core wood sections I would say for sure would work but need to make sure you have the thickness needed where you will need it.  Maple is the preferred core wood for many makers.  I know elm has been used also with success.  I’ve not yet tried elm but do not doubt it would work.  Using multiple pieces of horn on the handle areas may be fine but I personally would not do it extended into any portion of bending part of the bow.  If I were to hazard to guess though I would say you may be better to test this multiple piece horn belly on a more conservative build like a Mongolian or relaxed ottoman bow perhaps then on a Korean which are typically very very reflexed and under a lot of strain on belly.  I would stick to one solid piece of horn on each limb on the Korean.  I have experimented with horn spliced bellies with some success and some failures. It’s mixed bag and I still have yet to determine what went wrong for sure.  I use bamboo for my Korean builds.  I carefully choose either matched spacing in nodes for each limb or a single piece and add the handle build up section later on the sinew side.  I’ve done builds with rind side in and rind side out.  On the Korean builds I score only with very fine grooving tool.  They are not matching grooves.  I use only sturgeon bladder glue for this.  Not a mix.  I make this glue from the the inner bladder scrapings of air bladders of the sturgeon.  Croaker bladders also work well too but I have better access to the sturgeon bladders fresh.   The sinew layer I use a mix of home made sinew only glue and sturgeon glue. About 30% mix glue 20% sinew glue to 10%sturgeon glue.  The steam bend of rind side out builds with bamboo are possible but the bending is easier to make with rind side in (belly side).  I am actually testing a couple of these now with rind side out bend limbs to see if any difference in strength or cast.  Grooving is important on bows over 50lbs.  It would be a shame to put all that effort in to only find a lot of time and resources wasted.  Ask me anything you like and if I can answer I will do my best.  Again I’m not expert but have learn a bit over the years of breaking and making which is the best way.  Best of luck on your builds.  Lots of guys here to help.  Adam’s book is where you can get your measurements and details on dimensions.   Persona message me too if you want.  I just posted some update progress pics on my build yesterday so there may be infor over there that may be of some help to ya.  Welcome to the dark side.  lol. 
100
Around the Campfire / Re: Life on the Farm
« Last post by bjrogg on January 16, 2026, 03:02:18 pm »
Thank you Thomas and Pat.

Every serious primitive morel hunter should really have one or two.

Bjrogg
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