Primitive Archer

Fantastic thanks Dave you’ve already answered many of my questions.

When you say is it clean are you referring to the oily/residue or how cleanly the stands come apart? It definitely has some oiliness to it it I don’t have a lot to compare it to as I have only used one piece of roe back strap before. I have pulled out the short strands where the tendon splits into branches and done my best to pull out any short bits.

I will strip it down further into smaller pieces and  I doing so sort them into length (currently between 5” and 8”)

What do you recommend washing with?

I like the Osage jig.  I’m isinvv hv an old piece of tung and groove plank of hardwood flooring I had left over.  I’m measuring about an 1.25. Ack from center mark towards the nock for my thickest point on barrel.  Then I slightly taper to the nock about .245” diam.  towards the tip it’s more a gradual taper to about .180”.  I may go less yet we shall see the plank of wood seems to keep good hold of it for me.  I’m sure there must be a better way but for now this is working for me. 

If it were me I would really clean the sinew very well. Your hide glue will work just fine.  Separating bundles of strands into short medium and long can work well if using a brick patters.  I would measure the amount of sinew you want for each limb.  The last couple I did that were a little longer then your bow here each took about 70 grams dry.  So basically equal mass in glue general rule of thumb.  Depending on your glue and how it’s done can be a little less glue but risky.  I always mix up a little more then I need at approximately 25-30% strength.  If using granule glue just start with small mason jar with 75 grams of water and then add your granules till you reach 100 grams.  This will give you 25% glue.  If preparing the back for sinew I use a fine toothed hacksaw.  And run parallel grooves up and down both limbs.  I then take a stainless wire brush to clean out any debris.  I size coat with 5-10% glue about 10 times. This allows the pours of surface to really open up to accept the glue and adhere well for sinew.  Basically coat with a brush letting it dry to the touch warming slight the wood.  It will be shiny.  It may be overkill for sinew but you won’t regret taking the time to get it sized well prior to sinew.  Measure each pile for each limb to be as prices as you can to not end up with way more sinew on one limb then the other.  I comb my sinew and clean it well with my fingernail its entire length dry first to pull into finer strands.  I then comb it with a dog brush to even finer strands.  Doing this will give a very clean surface.  These bundles when layed down can be smoothed out with fingers dabbed in some water.  I use a heat lamp to keep things warm aimed at my work.  Another trick I’ve done with brick pattern sinew to get a smooth finish is to let the sinew gel up well and start to just be dry to the touch on surface only and then wrap it is with a t shirt stripped out or some sort of bandage.  I don’t use tensor bandage as it has a little too much elastic but instead I use horse leg wrap.  This stuff is very thin and leave virtually no wrap marks and compresses just enough the sinew to make it smooth even with brick pattern or laying it down.  Works well.  I’ve posted on this method using wraps.  If you search my yew bow builds last year or so I show it.  I know it’s there I just sent link to someone else recently with similar questions.  Anyway.  Don’t be afraid to get messy.  The sinew will stick to you and be like playing with wet spaghetti noodles.  Is you sinew fairly clean when pounded up?  Leg tendon is good for giving clean sinew dry.  There will be some pieces that will have extra bit that would need to be washed and combed for best results. 

Very interesting. I will definitely be watching this.

That's going to be an interesting piece of wood to work on, should be unique if it works out. Looking forward to seeing it as you move along.
 Pappy