Recent Posts

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91
Bows / Re: boo backed bamboo bow
« Last post by superdav95 on February 21, 2026, 03:28:22 pm »
Ya Arvin the pics don’t show it clearly.  It’s glued to the wood handle and then wrapped with strong cord. Artificial sinew actually.  I’ll switch this up to flax cord later.  Similar to my other boo bow builds like the one you have it’s also got the relief ramp at the end of the handle on both ends.  I’ve got a 26” flight arrow to test out this bow to see how it does at 28” draw.  I’ll try to post more pics. 
92
Bows / Re: 48" osage shorty bendy handle recurve build
« Last post by bentstick54 on February 21, 2026, 03:15:28 pm »
Turning out great. Bow is looking great. Really like the smooth sinew job.
93
Bows / Re: Propeller bow
« Last post by Selfbowman on February 21, 2026, 02:39:52 pm »
Eric I agree all Osage is not equal! Dense Osage is better bow wood. Having less early wood will make Osage more dense . I to had a bow that took no set and broke flight records. It blew doing a stretch test to see how much the wood would stretch in the draw process. Clamping metal strap material to the back of the bow letting one end move as drawn. The strap moved about the  thickness of the limb. Assuming the bow took no set I feel compression and tension must have been close to the same. Now I think that the distance that happened in stretch should be divided half in compression and half in tension because there was no set. I only say that because I’ve been told that Osage is pretty even in compression and tension. Eric you have built bows longer than me and probably more so I respect your opinion. But any time we have to remove crooks and bends and we can’t get it all out I think it affects the performance. Both in shock and speed. Can they be beautiful bows of course. Now some of you guys are probably better bowyers than me and can tiller a bow with character Better leaving the mass exactly even in both limbs. Leaving virtually no shock . My hat is off to guys that can achieve that! I can’t see limb twist being a advantage to power stroke in a limb. Jim admitted to having extra mass on the outer limbs not helping in speed after building the slowest bow in the world. I think that was done at mojam. Long before my time. Maybe a bit off subject but hopefully interesting!
94
Bows / Re: Propeller bow
« Last post by Eric Krewson on February 21, 2026, 09:59:23 am »
For me it has always been wood density what determines how a bow performs and osage density varies a lot. We all have had that one tree that made bows that were head and shoulder above any other wood we have used.

This is a billet bow was was made from very twisted but hard as rock osage with tiny early wood rings. It took at least a dozen heat correction sessions to tame it but it was a super performer as bow. I put two billets of this wood back for to make my personal bow out of but old age got the best of me and my bow making journey fell by the wayside.

The bow was just getting it's skins in the picture. Another strange thing about this bow, I made it as a 65# bow for the buyer, the billets had been in my shop for years, I have a pinless moisture meter that is spot on all the time, the wood was bone dry.

The owner called me about 6 months after he got the bow and said the bow felt more like 70# than 65#, I checked it and he was right, I dropped the poundage to 62# for him. The owner stopped at a public archery range on his way home from work, and put 100 arrows 4 or 5 times a week through the bow so it was well broken in.

Through the years the owners health declined and he had me drop the poundage several times, first to 57# then to 52# and finally to 47#. The bow never developed ANY string follow and continued to be a performer. I am still scratching my head about this spectacular wood. In 26 years of bow making I had one other bow gain poundage after it was finished and shot in, I suspect it is from relieving stress from the wood with a heat gun and having the stress come on its own later.

I have straightened the heck out of some hickory staves with heat only to come back to them later and find that they went back to their pre straightened crooked condition several days later. I have one hickory stave that I have straightened at least 6 times and it always goes back.

 
95
Bows / Re: boo backed bamboo bow
« Last post by Selfbowman on February 21, 2026, 03:49:10 am »
Dave if you have a shelf how are you going to keep the bow together at the handle attachment? I must not understand what I’m seeing in the photos.
96
Flight Bows / Re: First flight arrow.
« Last post by bjrogg on February 21, 2026, 02:52:38 am »
Can’t wait for spring Dave

Bjrogg
97
Bows / Re: 48" osage shorty bendy handle recurve build
« Last post by superdav95 on February 21, 2026, 02:26:19 am »
Superdav, thank you for sharing, I never liked some of the sinew finishes I’ve done because of how rough it turned out, this is very helpful.

Thanks walski
98
Bows / Re: 48" osage shorty bendy handle recurve build
« Last post by Wallski on February 21, 2026, 01:21:15 am »
Superdav, thank you for sharing, I never liked some of the sinew finishes I’ve done because of how rough it turned out, this is very helpful.
99
Bows / Re: Preparing horse sinew for drying
« Last post by JW_Halverson on February 20, 2026, 10:55:32 pm »
As you get to pounding them out, be sure to save every little scrap of sheath or short fiber that gets combed out. Get yourself a baggie and just keep sweeping up these bits and bobs, adding to the bag as you go. When you get about a quart/liter baggie packed full then you are ready to start cooking.

Wash them in barely warm water with a drop or two of Dawn dishwashing liquid, rinse, repeat. This helps get rid of residual fats and greases. Simmer these scraps in distilled water below boiling for a couple hours, adding more distilled water if it gets low. Strain out whatever solids remain. The liquid should be a very firm gelatin at room temp. You can cook it down more to firm it up, or add warm water to thin it down. I like to cook mine down so that it gels into a pretty tough gelatin at room temp, then I run it though a cheese grater, spread out on cookie sheets, then set it where there is good air movement to dry the hide glue down into pellets. I store mine in the freezer no matter how dry it gets because 1) any moisture at all and it MOLDS, 2) I got clever dogs in the house and this stuff is irresistible.
100
Flight Bows / Re: Flight Archery Projects
« Last post by superdav95 on February 20, 2026, 09:36:33 pm »
I like the Osage jig.  I’m isinvv hv an old piece of tung and groove plank of hardwood flooring I had left over.  I’m measuring about an 1.25. Ack from center mark towards the nock for my thickest point on barrel.  Then I slightly taper to the nock about .245” diam.  towards the tip it’s more a gradual taper to about .180”.  I may go less yet we shall see the plank of wood seems to keep good hold of it for me.  I’m sure there must be a better way but for now this is working for me.
Here's my tapering jig:-
https://bowyersdiary.blogspot.com/2017/04/reusing-stuff-and-improvements.html
Del

pretty cool Del!  you can tell a lot about a man by seeing the effort put into his jigs!
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