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91
Bows / Re: 150# recurve
« Last post by Marc St Louis on February 23, 2026, 08:19:07 pm »
I had a special jig that I used to brace heavy bows, nothing more than a 2X8 with several 3/4" holes drilled down it's width and a support for the handle.  Even with that it was a nightmare to brace it for the first time.

As far as dimensions go I didn't really keep track of the information but if I remember right it had 1 3/4" wide limbs and the length would have been in the 67" range

The backing was sugar maple and I found that maple is a more reliable backing than hickory and it was quarter sawn, or edge grain.  I had access to high quality sugar maple from land I owned.

I'll try and upload picture to the site, I'll have to crop and reduce their quality to do that.
92
Bows / Re: 48" osage shorty bendy handle recurve build
« Last post by willie on February 23, 2026, 06:59:39 pm »
Like any sturdy backing added to an existing bow it moves the neutral plane further towards the belly.  The neutral plane is generally in the middle of the bow limb but this can be manipulated with laminate backings or sinew or linen even on the back.

Thanks for replying. There is indeed quite a bit to consider when working with materiels of different stiffnesses. 
I like to think that a laminate of two materiels of different stiffnesses, when bent, the neutral plane will move towards the stiffer side. It shouldnt matter whether the stiffer materiel is on the "back" or the "belly" or rather, which way the laminate is bent.

I may be thinking of neutral plane little different perhaps… in my mind the neutral plane would move the other way.  Towards the weaker side.  As an example take a bamboo backed hickory bow.  The boo strip will most definitely overpower the hickory if not made very this and appropriate tapers.  On early boo backed bow builds it took some experimenting to get this right.  I even had to trap the boo backing to even this issue out.  In my mind the neutral plane had moved too far towards the belly (weaker side) causing stress compressing fractures.  The sinew is great in that it is much less harsh to mitigate this issue.  It’s a more gradual softer transition than a hard backing like bamboo for example.  I hope this illustrates my point on this. 

Quote
I’ve built self bows in the past and backed with heavy layers of sinew and glue only to find it was slower then before
Did this a bow have a long working length bend and have sinew applied thruout?   Yes it was and it was in my early days of sinew backing and still learning.  Placing the sinew in the right spots like bending portions of limbs makes a difference in the cast of the bow.   I learned with each bow that I sinew.  And still learning. 

Sinew is wonderfull stuff that can stretch much more than other bow building materiels, but because it is not all that stiff, it needs to be stretched alot further to store the same energy as wood. Which is to say the most energy storing part of the sinew is furtherest away from the middle of the laminate.  If only there was a way to place the sinew even further away from the center of the bow limb.   Agreed!   It is great stuff and it turns a regular bow into something alive feel to it.  Almost magical.   

as you mention, a layer of sinew 1/3 the total thickness might work out well with a wood bow without a horn belly. (I have no reason to doubt the experience of those who have built with sinew more than I have)
that said, limiting the use of sinew to the short working limbs of a lever bow might be a better placement for the magical stuff.
Have you looked at any crossections of turkish bows?
here are some pics of a chinese bow
https://atarn.org/chinese/visible_bow/visible.htm




93
Bows / Re: 2026 Junior Bow Trade sign up and trade thread
« Last post by stuckinthemud on February 23, 2026, 05:31:12 pm »
All righty then, there's a week left to sign up. Don't overthink it, six months or so to build a bow.. go on, you know you want to  ;D
94
Bows / Re: 48" osage shorty bendy handle recurve build
« Last post by superdav95 on February 23, 2026, 05:28:39 pm »
Like any sturdy backing added to an existing bow it moves the neutral plane further towards the belly.  The neutral plane is generally in the middle of the bow limb but this can be manipulated with laminate backings or sinew or linen even on the back.

Thanks for replying. There is indeed quite a bit to consider when working with materiels of different stiffnesses. 
I like to think that a laminate of two materiels of different stiffnesses, when bent, the neutral plane will move towards the stiffer side. It shouldnt matter whether the stiffer materiel is on the "back" or the "belly" or rather, which way the laminate is bent.

I may be thinking of neutral plane little different perhaps… in my mind the neutral plane would move the other way.  Towards the weaker side.  As an example take a bamboo backed hickory bow.  The boo strip will most definitely overpower the hickory if not made very this and appropriate tapers.  On early boo backed bow builds it took some experimenting to get this right.  I even had to trap the boo backing to even this issue out.  In my mind the neutral plane had moved too far towards the belly (weaker side) causing stress compressing fractures.  The sinew is great in that it is much less harsh to mitigate this issue.  It’s a more gradual softer transition than a hard backing like bamboo for example.  I hope this illustrates my point on this. 

Quote
I’ve built self bows in the past and backed with heavy layers of sinew and glue only to find it was slower then before
Did this a bow have a long working length bend and have sinew applied thruout?   Yes it was and it was in my early days of sinew backing and still learning.  Placing the sinew in the right spots like bending portions of limbs makes a difference in the cast of the bow.   I learned with each bow that I sinew.  And still learning. 

Sinew is wonderfull stuff that can stretch much more than other bow building materiels, but because it is not all that stiff, it needs to be stretched alot further to store the same energy as wood. Which is to say the most energy storing part of the sinew is furtherest away from the middle of the laminate.  If only there was a way to place the sinew even further away from the center of the bow limb.   Agreed!   It is great stuff and it turns a regular bow into something alive feel to it.  Almost magical.   
95
Bows / Re: 48" osage shorty bendy handle recurve build
« Last post by willie on February 23, 2026, 05:00:02 pm »
Like any sturdy backing added to an existing bow it moves the neutral plane further towards the belly.  The neutral plane is generally in the middle of the bow limb but this can be manipulated with laminate backings or sinew or linen even on the back.

Thanks for replying. There is indeed quite a bit to consider when working with materiels of different stiffnesses. 
I like to think that a laminate of two materiels of different stiffnesses, when bent, the neutral plane will move towards the stiffer side. It shouldnt matter whether the stiffer materiel is on the "back" or the "belly" or rather, which way the laminate is bent.

Quote
I’ve built self bows in the past and backed with heavy layers of sinew and glue only to find it was slower then before
Did this a bow have a long working length bend and have sinew applied thruout?

Sinew is wonderfull stuff that can stretch much more than other bow building materiels, but because it is not all that stiff, it needs to be stretched alot further to store the same energy as wood. Which is to say the most energy storing part of the sinew is furtherest away from the middle of the laminate.  If only there was a way to place the sinew even further away from the center of the bow limb.
96
Bows / Re: 150# recurve
« Last post by JW_Halverson on February 23, 2026, 03:43:06 pm »
I had a few requests for higher poundage bows over the years but nothing over 65#, that is why I started putting double nock grooves on the top limb an a wider one the bottom limb, so I could  could use a simple cord bow stringer to string those bows when they were first strung up at probably 75#+ pounds. At first I left the overlay chunky and filed it down to one groove as I finished the bow. Later I started incorporating the second groove in the finished bow as a way for the owners to easily and safely string their bow with a two loop piece of parachute cord.

A chunky stringing groove that has almost been filed away and one on my later bows;

That's exactly the upper tip overlay that I am doing these days for EXACTLY the same reason. My bows now go out with a bowstringer that has a leather cup for the bottom limb and a leather tab with a little hole to slip over the tip and fall into the uppermost smaller groove. Someone that bought his first bow from me back in 2011 just got a another (his 3rd or 4th, cannot remember) just commented on how much he loves using a bow stringer. The latest bow was 59# @ 27" and he said it was a bear to string the push pull method, but even his 8 yr old daughter could string it with a little effort.
97
Bows / Re: Propeller bow
« Last post by Jim Davis on February 23, 2026, 02:55:46 pm »
I prefer my big monkey wrench.  :)
98
Bows / Re: Bamboo/Yew/Maple/IPE/Horn 50# @ 28"
« Last post by Bob Barnes on February 23, 2026, 02:25:13 pm »
Incredible looking bow.   :OK  I have made several 2-piece bows using a joint like that, and I don't see how you left so little wood on the back side of the socket.  Did you build up the sleeve under the leather?  Also, with so many laminations, how thin is the horn?  It's crazy nice and looks like a great hunting bow.
99
Bows / Re: Bamboo/Yew/Maple/IPE/Horn 50# @ 28"
« Last post by Badger on February 23, 2026, 02:24:35 pm »
 Beautiful!
100
Bows / Re: Bamboo/Yew/Maple/IPE/Horn 50# @ 28"
« Last post by superdav95 on February 23, 2026, 02:10:09 pm »
Wow.  Very nice indeed.  Nice glue lines too. 
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