91
Bows / Re: Is this a suitable way to attach siyah? Updates
« Last post by jameswoodmot on February 28, 2026, 02:48:47 pm »Hopefully you can see here how I shaped the siyahs
Recent Posts
92
Bows / Re: Is this a suitable way to attach siyah? Updates
« Last post by jameswoodmot on February 28, 2026, 02:45:19 pm »With the string, are the long loops beneficial to how the bow works? I can’t see it making any difference but I’m not 100% sure
Also, it had a twist in it from the inner tube wraps but amazing it didn’t get glued in and straightened when I took the wraps off.
You can see in the pic that I didn’t get a great reflex curve, something to remember next time
Also, it had a twist in it from the inner tube wraps but amazing it didn’t get glued in and straightened when I took the wraps off.
You can see in the pic that I didn’t get a great reflex curve, something to remember next time
93
Bows / Re: Is this a suitable way to attach siyah? Updates
« Last post by jameswoodmot on February 28, 2026, 02:40:06 pm »It’s a bow!
It’s mostly finished now.
So, for a bow made out of belly drops from a material combination and bow design I’ve never done before it ain’t too bad! Good enough to be worth finishing nice.
The tiller isn’t perfect, it’s working too hard in the inner limbs but it was all the wood I had. I didn’t get rid of the last of the glue from the glue up on the belly of the inner top limb until I got to 400 grit sanding it.
I was hoping for 35-40 at 28 and it turned out at 34@32. Again, couldn’t get any more weight from because of the thickness of the Ipe so I’m not too worried.
The actually tillering took no time at all.
I think if it was an inch shorter in each limb it would have been spot on. Really pleased that I’ve got all the information I need now to make another.
Siyah angle was spot on for 28” but not quite enough for 32”
I’ve shaved all the weight I feel comfortable removing from the tips. I could probably get some more off but I’m going to leave it as it is as I’ve ruined a couple of good bows by over thinning them. It’s nicer with a heavy arrow but think the long thin limbs cause a bit of vibration and the extra inch of unnecessary Ipe on each outer isn’t exactly helping.
Sheep horn (yes I’ve got sheep horn already) for the string bridge and nock plates.
145fps with 13gpp, couldn’t get a reading on the lighter arrows as light was fading. Not fast but not too bad.
Need to make a string but I don’t have one of the jigs for doing the conventional strings with the long loops and serving so I’ll wing it with a Flemish.
It’s mostly finished now.
So, for a bow made out of belly drops from a material combination and bow design I’ve never done before it ain’t too bad! Good enough to be worth finishing nice.
The tiller isn’t perfect, it’s working too hard in the inner limbs but it was all the wood I had. I didn’t get rid of the last of the glue from the glue up on the belly of the inner top limb until I got to 400 grit sanding it.
I was hoping for 35-40 at 28 and it turned out at 34@32. Again, couldn’t get any more weight from because of the thickness of the Ipe so I’m not too worried.
The actually tillering took no time at all.
I think if it was an inch shorter in each limb it would have been spot on. Really pleased that I’ve got all the information I need now to make another.
Siyah angle was spot on for 28” but not quite enough for 32”
I’ve shaved all the weight I feel comfortable removing from the tips. I could probably get some more off but I’m going to leave it as it is as I’ve ruined a couple of good bows by over thinning them. It’s nicer with a heavy arrow but think the long thin limbs cause a bit of vibration and the extra inch of unnecessary Ipe on each outer isn’t exactly helping.
Sheep horn (yes I’ve got sheep horn already) for the string bridge and nock plates.
145fps with 13gpp, couldn’t get a reading on the lighter arrows as light was fading. Not fast but not too bad.
Need to make a string but I don’t have one of the jigs for doing the conventional strings with the long loops and serving so I’ll wing it with a Flemish.
94
Bows / Re: 150# recurve
« Last post by Marc St Louis on February 28, 2026, 02:20:11 pm »Alan
I have made bows like this with both heat-treated wood and non heat-treated wood and definitely the heat-treated wood was superior in both holding reflex and performance. I don't know how much more draw weight could be achieved, it will have to be someone else doing that. I have a hard time pulling back a 40# bow these days, shoulders are shot
I have made bows like this with both heat-treated wood and non heat-treated wood and definitely the heat-treated wood was superior in both holding reflex and performance. I don't know how much more draw weight could be achieved, it will have to be someone else doing that. I have a hard time pulling back a 40# bow these days, shoulders are shot
95
Bows / Re: 2026 Junior Bow Trade sign up and trade thread
« Last post by stuckinthemud on February 28, 2026, 12:03:59 pm »Six so far then, well, that's double last year! I'm going to draw names on Monday, so not long left to join the fun; all you have to do is build a bow. Even a broom handle can work if you're short on bow staves. Go on, you know you want to 
96
Around the Campfire / Re: Going out on a limb
« Last post by M2A on February 28, 2026, 10:46:36 am »As i recall they are 3" min. in width and 64 long each, for those reflexed ones Sleek. I did eyeball 2 of them up at one point to see how they'd line up for a spliced R/D layout. Got a good year at least while they season to think on that.
You made some good points Eric. I just started shooting in one from a stave that was all knotted up. its looks cool but a pretty average shooter. took me forever to work around all the flaws. I sometimes wonder if i should work on some of my better material instead of continuing to save it for that rainy day. The branches i pictured dont have too many knots however some of the first ones i cut are full of knots. I do get using good material for good results, but is fun trying to figure out the puzzle.
I did buy a couple early on too BJ. Also have been gifted a few logs over the years. Even made a few but never kept any finished osage bows for myself. I have a couple somewhere between roughed out to just needing a finish on them. If this tree gives me some good staves from the trunk I'll start on some of my best seasoned material. Not getting any younger
They dont know it yet but going to get my boys lined up for next weekend to cut and split up the trunk. With any luck i'll be able to get 3 full length rounds from it. Going to have to work around some knots and flaws but thinking positive. Part of the fun trying to make the best use of what you got.
Mike
You made some good points Eric. I just started shooting in one from a stave that was all knotted up. its looks cool but a pretty average shooter. took me forever to work around all the flaws. I sometimes wonder if i should work on some of my better material instead of continuing to save it for that rainy day. The branches i pictured dont have too many knots however some of the first ones i cut are full of knots. I do get using good material for good results, but is fun trying to figure out the puzzle.
I did buy a couple early on too BJ. Also have been gifted a few logs over the years. Even made a few but never kept any finished osage bows for myself. I have a couple somewhere between roughed out to just needing a finish on them. If this tree gives me some good staves from the trunk I'll start on some of my best seasoned material. Not getting any younger
They dont know it yet but going to get my boys lined up for next weekend to cut and split up the trunk. With any luck i'll be able to get 3 full length rounds from it. Going to have to work around some knots and flaws but thinking positive. Part of the fun trying to make the best use of what you got.
Mike
97
Bows / Re: Bamboo/Yew/Maple/IPE/Horn 50# @ 28"
« Last post by Bob Barnes on February 28, 2026, 09:58:51 am »simk~ thank you. I made this bow about 25 years ago and the plans for the 2-piece grip came out of a 1960s Popular Mechanics magazine. Carbon fiber was not a choice for me. All I had was fiberglass cloth and resin or rawhide and sinew. I only cut it in half so I could carry it on a motorcycle back in my younger days. 
What glue do you use for laminating?
What glue do you use for laminating?
98
Bows / Re: Loo – Maple – Black Cherry – Osage, 39# @ 28”
« Last post by simk on February 28, 2026, 08:53:22 am »another fine bow Tuomo - your attention to detail and finsh works is stunning. what do you put on as a finish?
I notice you ramp up the bellylam the fades
well done. It looks better imho.
...and yeah, that Loo Bamboo is tempting...bamboo is a very cool material and I always thought it would be just perfect if we wouldn't have to mess with these nodes all the time!
I lately bought a 100 moso strips which now makes me hesitate a bit to buy even more backing-material.....
I notice you ramp up the bellylam the fades
well done. It looks better imho....and yeah, that Loo Bamboo is tempting...bamboo is a very cool material and I always thought it would be just perfect if we wouldn't have to mess with these nodes all the time!
I lately bought a 100 moso strips which now makes me hesitate a bit to buy even more backing-material.....
99
Bows / Re: Bamboo/Yew/Maple/IPE/Horn 50# @ 28"
« Last post by simk on February 28, 2026, 08:43:48 am »thanks BJ
Bob: You got a gem there for sure. high-end-lamination work! did you present this bow on the forum? did I miss that one? A few more additional pics please BOM candidate for sure.
On the back of the bow you can fade the sleeve towards the end to get a smooth transistion to the wood - only in the middle of the grip it must be pretty strong and thicker. its different on the bellyside: here you need the material where the sleeve ends.
and: for anyone that might wanna try the carbon fibres - its very abrasive and will destroy tools within minutes. So either use very cheap disposable rasps or buy expensive wolfram-carbide tools to work it. its much worse than glass-fiber stuff.
Bob: You got a gem there for sure. high-end-lamination work! did you present this bow on the forum? did I miss that one? A few more additional pics please
BOM candidate for sure.On the back of the bow you can fade the sleeve towards the end to get a smooth transistion to the wood - only in the middle of the grip it must be pretty strong and thicker. its different on the bellyside: here you need the material where the sleeve ends.
and: for anyone that might wanna try the carbon fibres - its very abrasive and will destroy tools within minutes. So either use very cheap disposable rasps or buy expensive wolfram-carbide tools to work it. its much worse than glass-fiber stuff.
100
Bows / Re: Ash board bow... pic heavy!
« Last post by medicinewheel on February 28, 2026, 02:01:54 am »Many thanks to all of you!
Early morning here in Germany, and a day in the workshop is ahead...
Early morning here in Germany, and a day in the workshop is ahead...