Primitive Archer
Main Discussion Area => Bows => Topic started by: crazy horse on July 13, 2008, 07:29:28 am
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After three failed attempts, this is my first successful bow. I applied deer antler tips and made the flemish string and leather grip. The bow measures 67" k-k and pulls 56# at 28". Open to any feedback or suggestions.
(http://i344.photobucket.com/albums/p327/hatcreekcc/IMG_0128.jpg)
(http://i344.photobucket.com/albums/p327/hatcreekcc/IMG_0126.jpg)
(http://i344.photobucket.com/albums/p327/hatcreekcc/IMG_0124.jpg)
(http://i344.photobucket.com/albums/p327/hatcreekcc/IMG_0111.jpg)
(http://i344.photobucket.com/albums/p327/hatcreekcc/IMG_0112.jpg)
(http://i344.photobucket.com/albums/p327/hatcreekcc/IMG_0129.jpg)
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3 Attempts and such bow! You have talent. congratulations ;)
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Looks pretty durn good to me, if anything a little more bend near the fades. You did a great job on the grip.
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What Dana says..........could use a bit more bend at the Fades....but other than that...Handle shape.....and Grip looks good.....I'm not much for Arrow Shelves!! Nice Tips too....I like the Bone or Antler better than Wood....Now go have fun shooting it!! ;)
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You have done a good job on this bow and especially with it being your 3rd attempt. It could bend a bit more near the fades but at the length of this bow, a stiff handle area is completely acceptable in my opinion. As far as hickory backed hickory, this can be an excellent combo as proven by Dan Perry, a world class champion flight shooter from Utah. Under the dry conditions of Utah, and other western states, hickory excels. If you live in a humid climate the tiller and draw weight can suffer with hickory. Saying that, hickory is one of my favorite bow woods. Pat
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Got your fine weapon bookmarked for July Laminate Bow of the Month. Congratulations!
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Looks pretty good to me. The tips are sort of bulky...I'd taper the antler into the limb a little bit more and remove some wood from the belly side of the over lay to reduce the added weight and thickness of the antler overlay.
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I will need to pay more attention to the fades area on my next bow. Thanks for all the feedback! Having only shot my compound with sights before, I find shooting this bow an adrelinine rush. "Freeing" yourself from all todays technology and simply shooting with a handmade stickbow is liberating. I have some elm drying that I am anxious to work with and would like to locate some osage as well.
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EBAY
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Very nice work,good for any bow but especialy for you 3rd.Good job,you will enjoy that one. :)
Pappy
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Looks pretty good, if that's your third attempt, you're doing well. Like Ryan said, if you would taper those tip overlays more, it would reduce tip weight and also make it easier to brace.
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Nice looking bow, for your 3rd try! If I was you, I'd round of the edges a bit more everywhere, especially at the tips. Your tip overlays are cool, but try tapering them to the back. They'll look better, and be lighter. Nice work. Your tiller looks pretty decent. Have fun shooting it!
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My first bow that lasted through breaking it in was also hickory backed hickory. To battle the humidity problem I stored the bow between work sessions in my attic. Super hot and dry. My finished bow after about 500 or more shots has settled at 2 inches of set and really shoots nice. It is also alittle stiff at the fades but zero handshock. Thats a nice bow you have there.
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Real nice bow. Hope you get a deer with it this fall.
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Looks pretty darn good. You could make a few changes like suggested. It doesn't have to be a high performance bow though, and you can shoot it just like it is. Justin
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Much of the feedback has suggested that the fades area needs to have more flex to it and the tips should taper down more. In your opinion how much draw weight will I sacrifice if I were to make these changes?
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Personally if its shooting good with little handshock I would leave it and enjoy it :)
Just keep the advice in mind on yer next one.
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I agree with Dana that you should probably just enjoy and keep the suggestion's in mind for your next bow. But to answer your question, getting the bow bending more out of the fades would probably result in a pound or two of weight loss. Reducing the tips shouldn't cause any weight loss and shoud make the bow a better performer.
You really should be very pleased with this as your third bow. You might keep it as is and use it as comparison for future bows you make.
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Very nice bow.
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I was not planning on changing this bow. I am very pleased with it. My first bow was a short time success but only shot at 30#. To increase draw weight I cut equal amounts from both ends and ended up turning it into toothpicks. I just wanted to know for future reference. Thanks.
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Remember also that draw weight without efficiency is deceptive. An efficiently designed 40# bow can easily shoot harder and faster than a 50# bow that has heavy tips, poor tiller, etc. Draw weight is just how much force it takes to pull the bow back. How much of that energy is actually going into pushing the arrow is what matters.
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thats a nice, clean looking bow. my first bow actually barely worked, i could pull it to about 20", and it was made from a pine 2/4. btw i think i saw that bow somewhere else...whispers(bowstick) ;D