Primitive Archer
Main Discussion Area => Bows => Topic started by: Doug509 on February 10, 2024, 07:36:11 pm
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I'm working on a stash of Yew that I got a permit to harvest two years ago. I am very much a novice and thought I would share my experience and hope I can learn from the experts here. Let's start by trying to post a few pics of the harvest.
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I field split the tree with wedges to follow the wood grain a ended up with some wonky staves and a few that I will save for graduation from Yew School. All the staves were sealed on the ends and dried in about 9 months based on weight loss.
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I estimate this tree was a sapling when the Mayflower landed. It has about 40 rings per inch. I choose the stave fourth from the right for this project. It's dipped, bumpy, twisted and bent. Perfect for learning. Here is the stave laid out with the bow following the grain
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Wow! Nice stash, brother!
Always start with the worst piece you have so you don't feel so bad if things go wrong, and you'll feel like the Big Boss if you get a shooter!
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Are you already proficient in building selfbows? If not, I would do any learning of tillering skills with board bows, or white woods. Like you said this is an ancient tree with premium wood and it deserves the absolute best you can do with it.
If you are proficient then what type of yew bows do you want to build?
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Are you already proficient in building selfbows? If not, I would do any learning of tillering skills with board bows, or white woods. Like you said this is an ancient tree with premium wood and it deserves the absolute best you can do with it.
If you are proficient then what type of yew bows do you want to build?
Totally agree with this. You got some nice yew there it would be a shame to cut your teeth so to speak on such premium stuff. Some white woods are much easier to come by. I started out on white woods way before I went to Osage and yew. I had stock piled my more premium staves in prep for when I felt more ready.
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I have cut my teeth with vine maple and feel I'm worthy of the challenge. In between chores and football I have reduced the stave down to the intended layout dimensions. I plan to use steam to correct the twist and straighten the limbs. My understanding and experience is I should start with steam to make big adjustments then fine tune with dry heat.
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Well then you are in the right place to get some solid advise when you need it. Keep us posted as you go and should be able to avoid some early mishaps. Looks like a decent chunk of wood with decent ring count. Best of luck on it. How thick is your layer of sapwood?
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I have only made one yew bow. So I can’t really help you. I know that del is probably the master on here when it comes to yew bow wood. Not that some of the other guys on here don’t know how to work it and make some beautiful bows with it. I actually have a stave on the way to me that my son got me for my birthday. So I’m gonna watch your build and glean what I can from it.
I will put one little piece of advice I got from my yew build on here. Yes wood is toxic. So use a dust mask or respirator, if you have one when you’re working on it.
This is off the internet
Is yew wood toxic?
Yes, Yew wood can be harmful due to the presence of taxine, a toxic alkaloid. Exposure to Yew sawdust might lead to breathing issues, skin allergies, and other health concerns, so proper safety gear is crucial.
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I have only made one yew bow. So I can’t really help you. I know that del is probably the master on here when it comes to yew bow wood. Not that some of the other guys on here don’t know how to work it and make some beautiful bows with it. I actually have a stave on the way to me that my son got me for my birthday. So I’m gonna watch your build and glean what I can from it.
I will put one little piece of advice I got from my yew build on here. Yes wood is toxic. So use a dust mask or respirator, if you have one when you’re working on it.
This is off the internet
Is yew wood toxic?
Yes, Yew wood can be harmful due to the presence of taxine, a toxic alkaloid. Exposure to Yew sawdust might lead to breathing issues, skin allergies, and other health concerns, so proper safety gear is crucial.
Good advise. Yes. Use a respirator if you got it at bare minimum use a face mask. Not as much a concern if outside doing most of your sanding and bulk wood removal but still good idea. It sucks to use a mask but getting sick sucks worse.
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I have cut my teeth with vine maple and feel I'm worthy of the challenge. In between chores and football I have reduced the stave down to the intended layout dimensions. I plan to use steam to correct the twist and straighten the limbs. My understanding and experience is I should start with steam to make big adjustments then fine tune with dry heat.
I don't think you need to worry about that slight twist.
My go-to primitive is called twister and it shoots just fine :)
Del
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I have cut my teeth with vine maple and feel I'm worthy of the challenge. In between chores and football I have reduced the stave down to the intended layout dimensions. I plan to use steam to correct the twist and straighten the limbs. My understanding and experience is I should start with steam to make big adjustments then fine tune with dry heat.
Okay, good to know. You are going to love yew, it is noticeably lighter in the hand when shooting than other bow woods.
What sort of draw weight, and draw length are you looking for?
Get the bark off, and thin the sapwood if necessary. Start floor tillering, to remove excess wood . That will make any potential heat corrections so much easier to do..
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Appreciate the advice. I was under the impression that only the bark contained toxic substances once harvested for cancer treatment. Del I like your use of sticks to help visualize the twist for adjustment. I'm targeting a draw of 45 to 50 lbs at 28". I have left the upper limb 1" longer and NTN should be 64". Sapwood is not very consistent and ranges from 2mm to 12mm. The handle has a big dip on the right side back, and feels awkward. I removed bark and glued an extra piece of Sapwood to even out the handle shape. I think with a leather handle it's going to work out just fine. Besides the handle the limbs are very inconsistent in sapwood which will challenge me along the way. I hate to violate the beautiful white sapwood but I know it's going to need it.
I would like to clarify the tree I harvested was doomed and marked by forest service for removal.
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I have cut my teeth with vine maple and feel I'm worthy of the challenge.
If you can tame vine maple, then you can handle yew wood.
My understanding and experience is I should start with steam to make big adjustments then fine tune with dry heat.
Definitely.
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I have been able to progress to floor tiller with the limbs evenly consistent in width and depth. One limb has a big bend and a twist. I steamed for 60 minutes then clamps and wedges to get fairly straight. I then used dry heat to remove the twist. Del's suggestion to use sticks really helps visualize the limb twist and to know when it's straight.
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Lookin good.
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I haven’t used it yet but, I thought Del’s use of the sticks was a great way to get a really good visual of what your limbs are doing..
Looks like you’re coming along nicely..
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Thanks for the support. I have moved to the tiller tree with a low brace. I have string alignment through the handle but the limbs are far from vertical. Tried heat bending but the limbs just won't budge anymore. Should I be happy with what I have and keep tillering or do I need to stop and correct the string alignment?
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Doug. Looks good so far. I’d get those outers working little more. I wouldn’t worry about the non perfect parallel limbs. It’s better not to fight it too much. I’m dealing with the same situation right now on a wonky yew bow that I sinew backed. string alignment and tip alignment is good but it is not straight or parallel in the limbs. So long as the tips are aligned and string is close to intersecting middle of handle like you have there you are in good shape. Just be cautions on your wood removal and scrapes. Yew is easy to work and removal of belly wood can go quickly! Be sure to scrape evenly along the belly to maintain good depth on both edges of belly and follow the contours best you can checking often with fingers for dips and high spots. It’s hard to tell from pics sometimes with slight twist in limbs but your right limb may be bending little more on the inner compared to the left one. All in all looks pretty good at low brace. Keep us updated
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I have been doing some more tillering and have a working bow. I estimate it's at 60lb draw at 28". About 10 lbs more than I would like. The upper limb on right is 1" longer and has taken about two inches of set. Not sure if I keep removing wood if the amount of set will get worse. Tillering gizmo tells me to remove more wood from the end of each limb.
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Looks good Doug. Yes I would agree the outers could bend a little more to my eye anyway.
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Awesome work! If it was me I’d get the right limb bending more mid limb and into the fade a little more. I see a slight hinge but nothing to be worried about if you’ve got weight to reduce. But looking great!
Where abouts are you located?
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Thanks for your feedback. I'll keep after it and work on the final tillering. Home for me is Cliffdell, WA.
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Was almost done with my project and she blew up on the tillering tree pulling 45 lbs . The good limb that didnt break was Z spliced to another short stave. That also broke while only pulling 40lbs. Ive since tested wood moisture and everything i have is 3-5% moisture. Maybe thats why these wonky bumpy yew bows keep breaking?
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Ahh dang! Thats too bad. where did it break exactly? inners?
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The original bow and the Z spliced bow both broke about 4" out from the fade. The limb that survived two explosions should be unstoppable if I splice another good short stave. From this point forward I plan to sinew back for protection. Im now using my A grade staves that are straight and free of lumps and knots. This one is ready for sinew and is 75" long with steam bent tips. Im thinking will shorten to 69" with NTN of 67". Definitely getting schooled by yew
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Did the splice hold up ok? I’m working on a sinew backed yew right now for my trade bow. I’ve got a back up too that I’m also going to sinew at same time. This way I can just pick one of the two if both survive. The last couple I built held up very well and really turned out nice fast shooters. When they don’t blow up they work really well. The sinew seems to be a great combo. I plan to cover my sinew with goat skin. I just processed a bunch of sinew so will be doing this tomorrow in fact. Highly recommend sinew on yew. Looking back at the pics of your bow… it’s possible that you may have had too much concentrated bend out from the fades. Did you use any heat on that bow?
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I think moisture 3-5% is too low for yew. Hickory can handle that but my yew bow, which blows, was also on a moisture of 5%. Yew is better with 8 - 12% - that`s my opinion...
Greetz
Cord