Primitive Archer
Main Discussion Area => Bows => Topic started by: lenador on September 11, 2023, 01:22:57 pm
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I've been gone for 10 years from the forum and I'm finally going to work on my Osage hunting bow. I harvested and split them about 10 years ago and they have been drying for quite some time so I think they are ready. I shot the heck out of my red oak board bow and even killed a squirrel with it.
I do hate to admit it but 6 years ago I moved I to a new house that's on a corner and I don't have a place to shoot so I have not shot the bow more than 3-4 times. I'm sort of focused on how I can make a safe place to shoot my bow without upsetting the neighbors. I think I have a plan that I can make a good safe back stop.
For the Osage bow I'm thinking like 64" and something like 50#. I want to have a proper arrow rest on this one also.
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Better late than never!!! :OK A piece of old carpet is a good back drop for arrows with blunts or field points but not for broadheads.
Get as many thoughtful shots as you can between now and hunting season but concentrate of each shot as if it were the one at Mr. Big.
If you want to have a narrow arrow pass you can use a floppy rest. I use them on most of my bows and love it.
(https://i.imgur.com/StRCH2C.jpg)
You can see one here on this bow
(https://i.imgur.com/yVSs5vW.jpg)
these are the how to directions that Mickie "the ferret" Lotz sent me on how to make a floppy rest.
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I like it! I have a half peice of 3/4 ply wood and some used carpet scrap so I might be able to make something work. I don't know if I'll be confident enough to seriously hunt this year but I might get some tags and get in the woods just in case the right shot comes along.
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Having a hard time getting pictures to work. I suppose I'll have to host them somewhere.
Either way, I have 4 staves and 3 of them look like I could get 2 bows each. 1 was a little skinny and was perfectly straight but hase a left right kick on one working limb area and a bulge right in the ha for area. Since my first bow was a nice straight peice of red oak board I am going to use the less than left stave for this first attempt. It'll be a bit of a challenge and if it doesn't work out at least I'll learn something.
I'm hoping the bulge in the handle area works out to be nice way to get a close to center shot rest. We shall see.
I took it down to sap wood last night to get a better look. I'll post pictures once I figure it out.
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If you can figure out how to post photos there’s lots of guys on here that can give good helpful thoughts. Remember Osage is very receptive to heat corrections, and there are several ways to go about it. Good luck, looking forward to following your progress.
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Lenador, Imgur is a good hosting site, it free and it will resize your pics for posting on forums. I've used it for a few years with good results.
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(https://i.imgur.com/cI0bjAO.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/xC2WNuI.jpeg)
(https://i.imgur.com/0XfQwT3.jpeg)
(https://i.imgur.com/J9WkqCm.jpeg)
(https://i.imgur.com/MwY6sWM.jpeg)
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My first impression was that the stave to too skinny. I'm the type of person who over thinks so I'm just sort of working on it until it doesn't work... or does.
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You will want to follow any wiggles in the grain, not your straight string line for your layout in case that was your plan.
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Yeah I was planning to follow the grain. The string was for photo reference. That what I was getting saying I felt like the grain might allow me to have a close to center shit at the arrow rest.
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Was looking at the car first trying to figure out what it was. Hope you don’t have any bug issues under the bark on that Osage. The rings look good on the picture showing the end of the stave.
Hope it all works out for you.
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It's a 53 Ford customer line club coupe. Still has the flathead too. I killed the transmission in it so it's a little dusty right now.
The bark on was something I didn't realize was a big issue. Being a newbie it's hard to find solid information on the internet. For every yes there is a no. They have been stored in a heated garage for 10 years so hopefully there isn't any bug issues.
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I'm liking that snakey stave. They don't come around often. Save that one for later, if you are a little out of practice.
Any short or skinny staves might not make a full draw bow with a stiff handle. They will make great narrow longbows that bend through the handle.
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I'm liking that snakey stave. They don't come around often. Save that one for later, if you are a little out of practice.
Any short or skinny staves might not make a full draw bow with a stiff handle. They will make great narrow longbows that bend through the handle.
My last bow was a bend through the handle bow. Trying to make a work horse of sorts with the next one. This one is plenty lkg tmat 70" of stave to play with. I don't want to waste it though for sure but I have back ups I suppose. I like to work the hard way. All the staves are from the same log so I'd imagine they will be similar.
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Took most of the sap wood down tonight and tried to clean the edges up a tad. Starting to worry it's too skinny from the way it split. The bottom part has some sections where it's shallow underneath. Hard to explain. Either way, I'm holding true to my word and I'm going to work it until I can't, even if it it's up being a bit of a novelty.
(https://i.imgur.com/1F5tiLD.jpeg)
(https://i.imgur.com/HIRvEo4.jpeg)
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I know exactly what you mean with those shallow parts, not uncommon with split osage.
What maximum width can you safely get out of this stave? Where abouts is the narrow, problem area?
For a 50lber, 64" long I like 1.5" wide, though you could go a little narrower say 1&3/8" and get away with it, without too much stringfollow.
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I know exactly what you mean with those shallow parts, not uncommon with split osage.
What maximum width can you safely get out of this stave? Where abouts is the narrow, problem area?
For a 50lber, 64" long I like 1.5" wide, though you could go a little narrower say 1&3/8" and get away with it, without too much stringfollow.
I measured It this morning and as long as I don't got to deep into the rings I'm pretty much no shallower than 1.5". The narrowest spot is just under 1.5... maybe 1.4 but that's 16" from where my nick would be so I might be able to taper there. I will try to get it down to a ring these next few days and get a look at it.
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Osage can handle a width of 1 1/4" or more without problems. I'd suggest make it as wide as you can and keep the limbs true to the design.
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Osage can handle a width of 1 1/4" or more without problems. I'd suggest make it as wide as you can and keep the limbs true to the design.
Now that I've skimmed down to wood do you think it makes sense to sort of take the sharp edges on the sides and belly to start to develope a more square profile? I feel like I need to do that to devlope a bit of a vision of the bow, then chase the ring and draw it out and shape.
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A rectangular profile with a slightly rounded belly works well with osage. You want no sharp edges so be sure to round off all edges before straining the bow while tillering. You may not be able to achieve the design you intended but go with a design best suited for the stave as it stands.
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(scratches chin for hours)
Well I just dig in and it's really thin in those spots once I tried to square the sides of until I had. Enough thickness. At 66" tmand a 18" taper from 3/8 to 1.5 it's not going to work. I don't think going down to a 1.25 width is going to make enough difference to matter either. I think my options are either go bendy handle and taper from tip to center and see if that fits or I can go to a 56" bow.
One thing I'm not understanding why this one spot won't peel off clean. It's has about of a tightly woven divers there and that's what sort of screwed this one side.
(https://i.imgur.com/35AB2vD.jpeg)
(https://i.imgur.com/jwOLKYg.jpeg)
(https://i.imgur.com/va5nlQi.jpeg)
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Further thoughts from the work day. I can either make a shorter bow for my daughter... she doesn't shoot but maybe this would get her interested. The other option is really pushing it as a narrow bow and see what happens.
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Make it as narrow as needed to make your 66" bow. The thickness will make up for that. Osage is VERY forgiving compared to any other wood in terms of width/depth ratio.
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Make it as narrow as needed to make your 66" bow. The thickness will make up for that. Osage is VERY forgiving compared to any other wood in terms of width/depth ratio.
Well that makes me feel better about it. That's sort of why I started this project because I knew it wasn't going to be cut and dry and there would be some decisions made about design. Sort of an exercise.
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Looking good to me so far. Hope your stave works out for you. I saw Clay Hayes using a template like the one in your picture. Did you make it or can you buy something like that?
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Looking good to me so far. Hope your stave works out for you. I saw Clay Hayes using a template like the one in your picture. Did you make it or can you buy something like that?
Yeah I copied that same technique. Too smart to pass that up. I made mine by traping two pieces of card stock together. Marking a center and marketing the taper over the distance I wanted. Then I marked and punched holes every inch using a price of rubber mat under it and a flux brush flipped upside down.
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Does that template allow you to layout along a snakey/wavy centreline, because It looks like a regular template that you might use for a straight grained stave???
For wavy staves I usually just draw the limb shape I want on a sheet of thin mdf, or scrap of plywood. It has a centreline, and lines perpendicular every inch.
I mark out along the wavy centreline of the stave in inches, then rule perpendicular lines every inch, to match the drawing. Then I transfer the measurements from the drawing onto the stave with a pair of dividers. Hey presto ...an accurate layout on a wavy stave.
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Does that template allow you to layout along a snakey/wavy centreline, because It looks like a regular template that you might use for a straight grained stave???
For wavy staves I usually just draw the limb shape I want on a sheet of thin mdf, or scrap of plywood. It has a centreline, and lines perpendicular every inch.
I mark out along the wavy centreline of the stave in inches, then rule perpendicular lines every inch, to match the drawing. Then I transfer the measurements from the drawing onto the stave with a pair of dividers. Hey presto ...an accurate layout on a wavy stave.
This sounds sort of similar. It is a straight price if template and could be used on a regular stage but it has a centerline and holes punches every 1" so you can see through the template aligning it with the center as you work down. Picked it up from watching Clay Hayes make a snakey bow
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No pictures that would show much today but I did take it down to 1" of width. Everything was perfect until right at the end I should have stopped but I had a bit split off the top. I think I can make do though.
I also traced out my tapers. 3/8 to 1" over 18" and I traced out my handle at 4" with 3" tapers to w thick ess of 3/4 as a preliminary. Plan to leave a good crown on the belly.
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Well as I worded my way down to the size on the width and thickness I realized I made some mistakes.... or learned some lessons I should say.
1. Is I should have taken more care recognizing the grain because this is the main reason I kept taking deep chunks out of the sides. I misinterpreted the grain and I'm not sure if the bow will like that's.
(https://i.imgur.com/qsXDs7N.jpeg)
2. I took most of the width out of one side of the bow rather than splitting difference and side the stave was so skinny from the start I have drying checks on one side of the bow.
(https://i.imgur.com/IST2O1I.jpeg)
(https://i.imgur.com/Il7meKO.jpeg)
Additional to those I also found a check in the belly. At this point I'm. Going to finish it how er it comes out. So far it's been a good learning tool.
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Looks kinda bad to me but, I’m a novice so you can’t go by me.
I know I’ve seen plenty of posts on here about the checks in the middle of the limb and they fill those with the thin ca glue/ superglue.. can’t say about the one on the edge of the limb.
I always get scared using my draw knife when taking a limb down to width and file everything. Probably way more than I need to but I get nervous once I get to about a 1/4 inch of it. Not to say that’s what happened on yours. Hope it works out for you.. good luck with it.
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Looks kinda bad to me but, I’m a novice so you can’t go by me.
I know I’ve seen plenty of posts on here about the checks in the middle of the limb and they fill those with the thin ca glue/ superglue.. can’t say about the one on the edge of the limb.
I always get scared using my draw knife when taking a limb down to width and file everything. Probably way more than I need to but I get nervous once I get to about a 1/4 inch of it. Not to say that’s what happened on yours. Hope it works out for you.. good luck with it.
Yeah I do the same thing. My draw knife is pretty cheap and it's sort of hard to control. I bought a carrier rasp to finish the little bit down to the line. Yeah I agree it looks bad but I'd say I'm close enough now it's worth making something out of it. I started this out to be a practice stave to get me back into the feel before starting on one of my good staves. If I learn a few lessons from it I'll call it a win. The next one will be from a nice full hunk with plenty of meat. I also have another small one like this and a short small one too.
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My draw knife could be better too. I’d like to find a nice Greenlee or one of the nice older ones. I’m slowly getting better and more tools for working on bows with. I like my Shinto rasp, and I have a couple ferriers rasps that are okay. Now if I can just learn how to use them :BB
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The checks on the belly are no problem at all. I'd fill them with super glue and keep on. You may need to fill the checks in a few sessions.
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The checks on the belly are no problem at all. I'd fill them with super glue and keep on. You may need to fill the checks in a few sessions.
Does that mean a little at a time to give it chance to cure furhter in?
What's your thoughts on the side?
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Yes, put some glue in the checks, give it a while to cure and add more. Like I said it may take several sessions. Also, watch out for the fumes. Sometimes in situations like this the super glue will flash off emitting dangerous fumes.
It won't hurt to add glue to the sides too. Are they cracks or wind shakes?
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Yes, put some glue in the checks, give it a while to cure and add more. Like I said it may take several sessions. Also, watch out for the fumes. Sometimes in situations like this the super glue will flash off emitting dangerous fumes.
It won't hurt to add glue to the sides too. Are they cracks or wind shakes?
I'm not too sure how to tell the difference but once I got the limb near the final shape I eliminated most of the issue. There is the one very large one on the side near the handle that I'm most worried. Going to try the glue and see what comes of it.
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How about a pic.
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Hope it works out for you. Stick a picture of your bad spot on here, someone might be able to help. I’d like to see it for my own endeavors in case I run into something similar.
Good luck
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How about a pic.
On the previous page the middle picture is the one in the side. I can update an updated picture tonight. The check doesn't look as bad now the material is removed around it. After tonight I should be able to start doing some tillering. I'll have to get the checks glues up first but that will give me time to build a new tillering rack. I also need to improve the rest on the red oak bow before opening day in about a week.
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Good luck with your bow and your hunting.
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Good luck with your bow and your hunting.
Thanks. I made some progress the past few days. Getting ready to post the pictures. I went out scouting the past few weekends and my favorite spot has gotten popular so I need to find another spot. There is a prairie/ marsh area not far that's about 2800 acres. I'm going to scout that tommorow night and see what it looks like.
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(https://i.imgur.com/VqUKvwq.jpeg)
(https://i.imgur.com/YqehP3y.jpeg)
(https://i.imgur.com/Y0pEXr7.jpeg)
(https://i.imgur.com/w41J9R7.jpeg)
(https://i.imgur.com/cU93otB.jpeg)
(https://i.imgur.com/II6uVpN.jpeg)
Well here we are. Not perfect but I'm committed to finishing the bow no matter how perfect or imperfect it turns out.
I filled the belly and side cracks with CA glue. The belly crack is right near the nock area which worries me a little. I have the belly a rounded profile and and the floor tiller looks pretty good so I'm doing a few rounds of glue and then I'll work on the handle and tillering. The one side of the handle I ran out of material so I'm going to sort of finish it with it's imprefections and see how it turns out.
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I like your commitment and wish you the best. It’s lookin like a bow to me. Some good advise on here and I think you should be ok in the end. I’ve had worse as I’m sure others here have had and still turn out to be fine bows. Anyway I like your attitude with it. We must prevail and forge ahead. I’m following this one to the finish line!
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Looking much better than I had anticipated to be honest. .good job so far.
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Looking much better than I had anticipated to be honest. .good job so far.
Thanks! I am building a tillering area today. Actually it turned more into an area to work on bows and arrows.
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:BB )P( (-S
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Thanks! I am building a tillering area today. Actually it turned more into an area to work on bows and arrows.
We all need one of those. Hope the bow is working out for you.
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Thanks! I am building a tillering area today. Actually it turned more into an area to work on bows and arrows.
We all need one of those. Hope the bow is working out for you.
I've not touched it until I get my tillering area done. The tillering area is done but I need to finish the stuff around it. My wife does glass art and she has an exhibition coming up so we've been installing fragile glass pieces for a week straight. I have some freedom this weekend though.
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I have finally finished my bow working area and my tillering rack. I did have a bit of oversight on the design because I can pull it to full draw and I can use it to pull the bow weight scale. Anywho... I can finally move on to tillering my Osage bow.
Btw, my red oak bow in the tillering rack is my read oak D bow and it pulled 41 lbs ant 28".
(https://i.imgur.com/ybPhjni.jpeg)
(https://i.imgur.com/dgfcw4N.jpeg)
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That will work.
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Because every bow I made with a side checked stave failed, I toss every such stave in the future tool handle pile or burn it outright. I hope you have better luck with your stave than I had with a bunch of mine.
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Because every bow I made with a side checked stave failed, I toss every such stave in the future tool handle pile or burn it outright. I hope you have better luck with your stave than I had with a bunch of mine.
As far as I'm concerned it's already been successful. This little project forced me to finally acquireich needed tools for proper bow building such as building my work area and tillering rack, it forced me to finally take my shooting more seriously and learn how to tune an arrow. I've this thing pops on the first pull I have the confidence and tools to make something nice out of the pile of staves next to it. 👍
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Good attitude. Junk staves will teach you 10x more than good ones. But, learning how to drive in the winter on bald tires can be tricky :)
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Slowly but surely tillering. I'm to the point I need to put nocks in and get a string on it. It at about 38 lbs in this picture. So I'm confident I have room to bring it down to 45-50 at my 28" draw length.
(https://i.imgur.com/aFCsOf1.jpeg)
I am worried about the checks in the tip. The one seems to have opened up during the tillering because the glue wasn't able to oentrate deep enough. I'm going to try to get the bow tillered to a lowe weight and get nocks done and see what the crack looks like after that and try to clge them and not touch them.
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Looks good to me so far. Bend looks like it’s even. I’ve had sore spots disappear as I kept working the limbs down. Maybe once you get the limbs thinner you can get some glue into the check on the tip.
Good luck with it.
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Looks good to me so far. Bend looks like it’s even. I’ve had sore spots disappear as I kept working the limbs down. Maybe once you get the limbs thinner you can get some glue into the check on the tip.
Good luck with it.
That's the plan, the seem to be only on the side so I think I can get it to a brace and get a string on it today and glue the checks after I tiller it the rest of the way. I need to build a jig first. My tips need some straighting. I can feel it in the handle when you pull back. Might even reflex the tips a bit.
The back is very rounded. Seems to be tillering fine so I'm rolling with it.
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Fake workshop.
Too clean.
I said what I said.
:D
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Too funny! You’d like my shop then! I call it organized chaos. Lol
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What my shop needs is a dust collection system. Everything is covered with dust and the floor is taking on a Osage orange cast to it. It did start out like the picture above but that didn’t last. Started out a shed for me and my wife but I kinda took it over and now my wife says I have to build one for her. :BB
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What my shop needs is a dust collection system. Everything is covered with dust and the floor is taking on a Osage orange cast to it. It did start out like the picture above but that didn’t last. Started out a shed for me and my wife but I kinda took it over and now my wife says I have to build one for her. :BB
Dust collection is great investment. I will never go back to a shop without one. All that dust your breathing in will be hazardous to your health.
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I try to stay pretty organized but it always turns chaotic. I have to stop myself and put everything away and start again.
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Cut in nocks and put a shorter string on it with basically no brace and continues tillering. One side doesn't seem to want to bend further towards the tip despite taking material only from the past half this while time. I think it may be because of the slight twist in the tip so I'm going to attempt to straight that and see what it looks like after.
My goal was 50# and I'm at 50# at 25" right now so I should be around that as long as things don't go arstray.
(https://i.imgur.com/pNjUUJn.jpeg)
Here is one at my 28" draw with no brace. The bottom limb is what I'm not liking.
(https://i.imgur.com/8Vu8dZR.jpeg)
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Jumped into some straightening of the limb before I moved forward tillering. I probably should have done this earlier but my inexperience is showing. First I wanted to straighten both tips out because both had a good flip to them that made the limbs want to twist when tillering.
(https://i.imgur.com/qzqUiUh.jpeg)
Next I wanted to fix a prop twist on one of the tips. Used an old pipe wrench and some leather with the heat gun for this.
(https://i.imgur.com/4RlI7J5.jpeg)
Right now it's on the bench clamped and cooling doing the final alignment of the tips.
(https://i.imgur.com/obwbuYt.jpeg)
Then my main focus is going to be getting the outer limbs working more and getting some shape to the nocks. I ordered another cheap Amazon string to atleast get it braced to finish the tiller
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Looking good so far. For me bending limbs is kind of scary. I’m starting to get a little more comfortable with it but it still freaks me out a little.
Good luck.
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Can’t remember if you mentioned if you used heat correction on the belly of this bow yet. Also was the prop twist there before you started scraping? If not then be aware that your scraping may be the cause. Uneven scrapes can cause twist. Just something to be aware of. It looks good at 28”. The bottom limb is a tad stiff in the mid-outers. It’s a challenging stave so congrats on getting to this stage ! If you corrected some already on the belly use caution. Best of luck. Lookin good
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Can’t remember if you mentioned if you used heat correction on the belly of this bow yet. Also was the prop twist there before you started scraping? If not then be aware that your scraping may be the cause. Uneven scrapes can cause twist. Just something to be aware of. It looks good at 28”. The bottom limb is a tad stiff in the mid-outers. It’s a challenging stave so congrats on getting to this stage ! If you corrected some already on the belly use caution. Best of luck. Lookin good
I have not corrected it before and yeah the prop twist was pre existing. I'm using a counting method to make sure I'm tillering nice and even.. or as even as I can get with my experience.
Yeah the outer limb especially on the bottom limb is pretty stiff. It doesn't help that it has a natural deflex near the handle area. Either way I'm excited that I e made it this far and I'm looking forward to trying to keep the natural handle look.
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Got the tips perfectly where I wanted and I also worked the natural delfex out of the one limb. Tried like hell to tiller the outside of the bottom limb. Ran out of poundage. I called it off at 42#.
(https://imgur.com/a/fMGtjxU)
(https://i.imgur.com/mlIpayE.jpeg)
I'm not happy with that bottom limb but it was pretty even side to side so figured I'd put a strut on it and see what it did. Slowly pulled it a few times until I got it to full draw. Pulled it to full draw a few times and put 20 shots though it... WOW! No tuning at all and this thing feels amazing compared to my red oak D bow. I didn't know what I was missing. It is so smooth and feels fast. 8 paces and 3 under and I was point on. Good groups right out of the gate. Also no string slap like my other bow.
New string will be here tomorrow and I'll shape the nocks and handle. If I'm lucky I'll be hunting with it this weekend.
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Congrats man. Looks great. Well done. Osage is wonderful stuff.
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Congratulations, looks really good to me. A lot of people like having the outers a bit stiffer. Now go out and kill a deer with it and it’ll be perfect..
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Too much celebrate too soon! 20 shot last night and this morning I strung it and started to work the limbs and it made some pop noise. I inspected it and didn't see anything. Figured... Might as well see what happens. First full draw and BOOM!
(https://i.imgur.com/Bve2h5g.jpeg)
(https://i.imgur.com/IQzhfMC.jpeg)
(https://i.imgur.com/fbDOKIm.jpeg)
I'm pretty certain this is due to 2 things, 1. I had my lowers working too hard from the start and tried to chase it with tillering and ran out of room. This is a lesson to be spot on with your thickness and that was challenging with this stave. The stuff lowers may work but with this bow 1.25 width I think I pushed it too much. I bet you could get away with the skinny width with a better tiller or lower weight. 2. I left the tillering string on too long and my tiller looked better with it. One I went to a proper string I could quickly see my problem was worse than I expected.
Hopless bastard taught me something's and those 20 shots we had were enough to hook me into another one. Failure isn't an option but it is a great learning tool.
In hindsight I wish I would have not been so set on the weight of the bow for myself and let the bow be lighter but atleast working.
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Congratulations, looks really good to me. A lot of people like having the outers a bit stiffer. Now go out and kill a deer with it and it’ll be perfect..
We celebrated too soon. 😂
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That's unfortunate but when they break its a good learning experience.
Side note....as a guy in the electrical trade, I am wincing at the sight of that panel in the background lol.
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That's unfortunate but when they break its a good learning experience.
Side note....as a guy in the electrical trade, I am wincing at the sight of that panel in the background lol.
100% agree. To me this bow was nothing more than a learning experience and a very good one.
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Well that sucks. I kinda thought you were home free. On to the next one
Side note....as a guy in the electrical trade, I am wincing at the sight of that panel in the background lol.
Never even noticed it SD but being in the trades myself I do understand why you picked up on it. Masonry is my curse.
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Oh man ya I’ve been there way more then I can count at this point. Good attitude with it anyway. Forge ahead. I think your assessment is likley correct. With those snaky staves each scrape is a calculated curl. Too bad that would have been a very pretty bow. There was a thread on here by bjorge who posted about his finger calipers. I believe is comes into play here with these snaky staves. When I work on a very challenging stave matching thickness is important. Belly ring counting helps too to get it right. Consider too that This may have just been too much to ask of this piece of wood. Very tight ringed Osage can be a gamble at best. I’ve had more of these end in disaster. On those tight ringed Osage bows I back them with rawhide as a little insurance. Another thing. Keep that lower limb and think about doing a socket tenon or sleeve 2 piece bow. Just saying.
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That's unfortunate but when they break its a good learning experience.
Side note....as a guy in the electrical trade, I am wincing at the sight of that panel in the background lol.
I'm an Commercial light industrial HVACR tech. I'm re wiring the house but also making the panel larger so there are a bunch of temped in circuits. Between all new plumbing, moving the water heater, the doing the electric, and building this bow I've been busy lol.
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Well that sucks. I kinda thought you were home free. On to the next one
Side note....as a guy in the electrical trade, I am wincing at the sight of that panel in the background lol.
Never even noticed it SD but being in the trades myself I do understand why you picked up on it. Masonry is my curse.
I had the outside tuck pointed and show them the basement and they didn't even want to touch it basically told me I'd spend an arm and a leg tuck pointing and trying to get the paint off the brick. I can't remember what paint it is but he said it was good to be a lot more work than it's worth..
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Painting brick is never a good idea.. brick needs to breath and painting traps water inside and will cause it to deteriorate. You can stain it and be okay. That said, I understand a lot of people paint brick
And it doesn’t happen overnight. I’ve actually got a brick front on my house that’s painted 😁 If it’s painted you need to keep the paint in good shape so water can’t get to your masonry. Paint is very difficult to remove from brick for sure.
I’m like you and always working on my house and trying to make bows can be difficult to find time for.
Good luck on that next piece of Osage. I’m sure you’ll find some better pieces in the staves you have left.
26 years in business for myself and 20 before I started my business. Off topic here but just trying to help a bit if I can. Feel free to pm me if the mods don’t like it.
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Sorry to have gotten off topic about the electric panel. Makes me want to go to work on it. I am in the fire protection industry and mainly do low voltage fire alarm/security work and data center fire protection. I know what you mean with balancing the work on the house and fitting in time for hobbies.
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Painting brick is never a good idea.. brick needs to breath and painting traps water inside and will cause it to deteriorate. You can stain it and be okay. That said, I understand a lot of people paint brick
And it doesn’t happen overnight. I’ve actually got a brick front on my house that’s painted 😁 If it’s painted you need to keep the paint in good shape so water can’t get to your masonry. Paint is very difficult to remove from brick for sure.
I’m like you and always working on my house and trying to make bows can be difficult to find time for.
Good luck on that next piece of Osage. I’m sure you’ll find some better pieces in the staves you have left.
26 years in business for myself and 20 before I started my business. Off topic here but just trying to help a bit if I can. Feel free to pm me if the mods don’t like it.
Yeah that's exactly what the guy said. Since it's a 100 years house it's going to weep from the outside so painting it was a major mistake. Like you said it's deterituong in some areas but others it won't come off. I tried using a heavy duty paint remover and wire brush and it took 6 hours to do maybe a 10 sq ft area on my entry way.
He recommended redoing the foundation block and installing a drain around the perimeter. Said it would cost more but would be a better solution than dumping money into the brick that was already compromised.
I've got two staves picked out, plan ing in starting a thread soonish. I've been hunting this past week.
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Sorry to have gotten off topic about the electric panel. Makes me want to go to work on it. I am in the fire protection industry and mainly do low voltage fire alarm/security work and data center fire protection. I know what you mean with balancing the work on the house and fitting in time for hobbies.
As an HVACR guy it gets stuck with everything from high voltage to low voltage to plumbing to computers etc... Fun stuff lol. Now days I'm 99% heavy commercial light industrial so I do a lot of talking and organizing people and permits etc... I still get to get dirty here and there but it's not as much grunt work as often.
I think we can talk off topic as long as we still have some on topic over post 😂.
Btw I looked back at this post and remembered I had a check near the handle. After investigating the break I found infact that's where it started. I think if my tiller was better it would have lasted longer but I thing eventually it would have let go. Glad it was in my basement and not in the woods when I had it pointed at a deer.
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Maybe soda blasting would work. Anyway, good luck with the house and with the hunting. Hope your next stave is a good one..