Primitive Archer
Main Discussion Area => Bows => Topic started by: Justynwithay on August 05, 2023, 02:29:03 pm
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Hey All! I have a yew stave roughed out 54 "( pacific yew)
What would be the max draw lenght achievable? I've tried searching but can't find an answer.
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If I remember correctly it’s 2 times the draw length plus 10 inches is the bow length. I’m sure others will respond to this question but, I think that’s what I read on here or somewhere else.
That said I’m coming up with 22 inch draw length.
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A bend in the handle will allow more draw length. A solidly good tiller might get 26 inches out of that stave. We are not talking sinew at all, correct?
(However, I prefer to over build a bit. Luckily, I draw shorter, so that helps me with builds.)
What kind of design, draw weight, overall mission (purpose) of the bow, are you considering?
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It depends on the draw weight and handle design, but half the length of the bow is a sensible max for a bow that moves in the handle , with a good stave and good bowyer.
You can get much more than that at a low draw weight.
The bow in this vid is about 47" and being draw 27".. mind it is mostly sapwood with a thin strip of heartwood up the belly, just a bit of experimental fun.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SdDm_zOhkJk
Del
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47 at 27 is a well tillered bow. I built a 44lb. 54 inch sinew back Osage for my son for ground blind hunting that pulls 27 inches. My best non backed short bow is 50 long 47lbs. at 25 inch draw. It is an elm self bow, and some oak self bows much the same. All with reflex, and many other short bows with some degree of set. Good luck with your yew.
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The maximum sensible length for a bow that pivots in the handle is typically half the length of the bow, depending on the draw weight and handle design, along with a quality stave and skilled bowyer.
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I have an osage, 54" at 45# stretching to 28". It's a selfbow.
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This one draws 28" and could do more
http://www.primitivearcher.com/smf/index.php/topic,71186.0.html
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I know it can and has been done a lot by people here,but for me if it is a decent stave I double my draw length I am looking for and add the non moving part [handle and fads] that is usually pretty safe. :) It seems everyone is wanting 28 inches but don't know many that draw 28 so I guess I have to ask WHY ? ;) :)
Pappy
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Half the distance between the nocks, less a couple of inches where the handle stiffens up a bit and reduces the arc at that point. I’ve moved away from half the bow length to half the bending sections less a bit. The part of the bow just inside the nocks is often a little less bendy than you want, and so is the handle, so not all of each limb is doing the main bending. Distance nock to nock is 52”, the primary bending section will be about 48”, gives you a definite draw of 24”, a bit of faffing with tips and centre allows a little bit more, so maybe 25”, maybe 26” but that amount of bend is scary to tiller…,
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I know it can and has been done a lot by people here,but for me if it is a decent stave I double my draw length I am looking for and add the non moving part [handle and fads] that is usually pretty safe. :) It seems everyone is wanting 28 inches but don't know many that draw 28 so I guess I have to ask WHY ? ;) :)
Pappy
A 28" draw is standard and if you decide in the future to give a bow away that has a short draw then you are limited to giving it away to someone with a short draw. I know I've had some people ask me if I have a bow with a longer draw, like 29 or 30 inches. I was not about to let them have a bow with shorter draw just in case things go badly
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The bows side profile can be manipulated to get a longer draw length. First thing that is commonly done is to recurve or reflex the tips. That changes the string angle allowing the bow to draw further before the string hits that 90 degree mark at the tips. With the right amount of recurve, you could pull a bow back until it's a complete circle. Of course, that would lead to a slough of new problems.
Another thing to do is to DEflex the fades. It reduces how much the limbs have to bend to reach your draw length. This reduction in the limbs bend radius allows the bow to be pulled further without being over stressed. The downside is it also reduces the strings tension, and the bows early draw weight.
Combine the reflex with recurved or reflexed tips and you get a lot of that early draw weight back. This is how I build 54 inch long bows that draw 26 inches all the time. 28 inches of draw can be had from a 54 inch bow but I feel a 56 inch bow would pull 28 better, but yes, 54 will do it.
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Sorry Sleek, did you mean reflex or deflex the fades? Getting long draws out of short bows is something I’m struggling with at the moment
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I think he meant deflex through the handle.
Bjrogg
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Sorry Sleek, did you mean reflex or deflex the fades? Getting long draws out of short bows is something I’m struggling with at the moment
Sorry, I meant deflex the fades, autocorrect changed it.
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Sleek is what you are describing essentially a 5 curve design? I have a narrow 1" diameter Ocean Spray stave 56" long that I stare at wondering if I can get a 45#, 28" draw from it?
Glad this place is alive again.