Primitive Archer
Main Discussion Area => Bows => Topic started by: Buckskinner on March 30, 2022, 09:18:44 pm
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I'm working on a hickory stave that I cut in early February. I cut out basic outline and then dried in a redneck kiln above my shop furnace until it stopped losing weight a few days ago. During drying it developed a pretty good bend on both ends causing the string to set up off center. I've just put a very long string on it so haven't done anything but floor tillering. Is there any remedy for this or is what it is?
Thanks for any input.
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I'd keep tillering and get it to first low brace then see how the string tracks.
Your tips look wide so you can move the tips over by removing wood from one side of each tip to move the string over toward center.
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Your best bet is to build a reflex form, and give it some reflex to even up the limbs. Dry heat, with a heat gun.
You can also correct any string offset at the same time.
+ what Pat said.
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You have enough tip width to push the string across to the right. If that solves the problem, then just shave away the left edge of the limb tips and position the nocks accordingly.
Just realized the photos are horribly distorted, but you still probably have room to try it.
Del
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The reason it did it is because you reduced the width. When putting a stave up to dry like that it should be the same width all the way along its length. Also leaving the handle wide until it is strung allows you to shape the handle to where the string wants to lie.
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I would just straighten it with heat after the first low brace. :) They will do that a lot of times when cut to shape while still green.
Pappy
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Thanks for the help. I should have checked pics, for some reason they distort bad once in a while when posting.
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I decided to make a reflex form since the top limb had some already, worked well! Slight bit of propellor on one limb, hopefully that can be tillered out. Thanks again for the help.
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Always a good option is to leave the handle full width and the nocks an inch or so until the first stringing or full draw. That way the string can be tracked better. The nocks and handle can be prettied up later. Jawge
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All good options. I would have taken the route you took. Straightening with a caul. It may add some work in the short term, but I think it saves it in the long run.
I wouldn’t worry to much about the propeller unless you plan on recurves. I wouldn’t tiller it out unless it wasn’t there at unbraced and showed up as it was drawn. If it’s just there at rest and you want to remove it. Do it with heat.
I agree. I always leave handle wide till late in the tiller process. I can use it to clamp in vise that way and like others said it can be move side to side to help with string alignment.
Good luck. Keep posting pictures and asking questions as you go.
Bjrogg
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I will do that for future builds. I got tillering started last night and will put up some pics for input later this afternoon. You guys are a big help to us newbies...
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Tiller check please. Left limb is top and is one inch longer that bottom.
Both limbs have some reflex in middle when not strung. Do you take this into account when assessing tiller? Both middles seem stiff to me, especially the left.
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You want both limbs bending evenly and together no matter their side profile.
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Thanks, Pat!
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Your form is not ideal. Of course you can use shims to alter the shape. Your form has all the bend mid-limb - that is what is making tillering harder than it needs to be. A reflexed form should be straight through the handle and the radius of the bend decreasing as you move along the form towards the tips. EG. elliptical.
I would redo the form then heat treat again and bend the limbs into a btter shape. That reflex mid- limb will make it much harder to tiller correctly.
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Good job on aligning your string.Your eye is correct.There is a stiff spot midway on your left limb corresponding to that slight reflex there while resting.It is working though.I would just make that limb your bottom limb if possible.You could round that stiff spot out to look like your right limb too as it is'nt a great deal of reflex to harm that old hickory any.
Heat treat it and it'll hold up for years to come.
I also agree with bownarras' assessment of your form.I've found that a form that gives a slow ever increasing reflex just a couple inches out from the fades to the tips works the best for keeping reflex on a bow.No set on the inner limbs/a little midway/and none from there on out to the tips.
You want to keep your inner limbs healthy as that's where your power will come from.Your bow will do fine though with what you are doing.Just nit picking here,but it could do better is the point.
It should make you a fine bow.
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I was trying to copy caul found on this string.
http://www.primitivearcher.com/smf/index.php/topic,32832.0.html
After looking again, I can see what you guys are saying. The left limb has a significant natural reflex mid-limb and I think my brain was trying to replicate...
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I know Pearlie myself.That form is a good one,but Pearlie was'nt into reflex as much as I am.I've got the same form [not his] over here myself.His will give a flipped tip look.A look many are after.
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I know Pearlie myself.That form is a good one,but Pearlie was'nt into reflex as much as I am.I've got the same form [not his] over here myself.His will give a flipped tip look.A look many are after.
Do you have a pic of your form? Trying to decide if I should shim or cut new board.
My next project has quite a bit of reflex at both ends.
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I'll look Buckskinner.If I remember right I cut that form up making it into a different one.A half form one.Your future bow looks great.
The one I use for reflex is this one.A fair amount of reflex but not too much really.You can align the string on this one too.
Deep throated 3" C clamps used.
Longer bows will end up with more reflex on this half form one than shorter bows if used to it's maximum potential.You can give a bow as much or less reflex with this form balancing both limbs to look the same before tillering.
(https://i.imgur.com/xx9Az57.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/thdYQvB.jpg)
I've sent this pattern to a few people on here.I could send it to you just PM me your address.
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That looks good! I'll PM you.
I have another question. How much should I remove on the back of the bow? There are some remnants remaining of the inner bar as you can see. Should I scrap it, sand it, or leave it??? I'm guessing not leave it, but don't want to go too far. Looking forward to harvesting a hickory in late spring where the bark comes right off, this one did not to say the least!
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That's a personal preference question.I like to leave remnants of cambium on most and even on other white woods too.
Your well on your way there.
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I usually leave some, not worth taking the chance of violating the ring and looks good also after it is finished, it won't hurt a thing . :) The bow is looking good so far. :)
Pappy
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Well good because I kinda like the contrast and how a test piece of wood stained. Pretty much done with it, unfortunately my shoulder is still bugging me so I can't post a pic with me drawing it.
I figured out that how I was standing while tillering was bothering my shoulder. Had stave in vise on edge of my bench so when scraping my left arm has to cross over too far causing my rotator cuff tendon to inflame. Very irritating that I can't draw a bow. Hopefully I can find a different stance to tiller that put less stress on my tendon.
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I hear ya about that rotator cuff pain.Maybe I did'nt have an extreme case of it.It sure was very painful to shoot a bow though.The pain came directly from where the rotator cuff is.I've seen a couple other bow shooters that I shot with at 3D shoots damage theirs.They went and got an operation.Arm in a sling for months etc.
I did'nt.It took almost year to get tolerable and there were certain movements that my arm just could'nt do in normal work a day life.
Like reaching straight up overhead.
Looking into the problem it seems the tendon is tore from the bone with this problem.In bad cases it needs to be stitched back to the bone.Since it's a tendon it has no blood flow.For that reason it takes a long long time to heal.
Good luck with your healing.
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Some great advice here. Lots of experience to keep you heading the right direction with a good reflex. Second bow is looking to have a good start. Keep it up.
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Buckskinner I’m not a doctor or a physical therapist.
About 8 years ago my shoulder was hurting and I like Ed couldn’t raise arm above head without considerable pain.
My doctor said it was probably a torn rotator cuff and would probably need surgery but I had to go to physical therapy first.
The physical therapist said he was sure it was a torn rotator cuff to. He gave me several exercises to do and I visited him once a week for several weeks. He said if I did these exercises other muscles would take over and strengthen.
Everyone else told me it was a waste of time.
Well for me it wasn’t. My shoulder is fine now and it doesn’t bother me at all.
Might be a fluke but it worked out great for me.
Hope it works for you.
Bjrogg
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I hope I'm in your realm of recovery! It's getting better somewhat but still get a sharp pain every once in a while, and certainly can't draw a bow yet. Seeing an ortho next Thursday and my wife is an occupational therapist and she's got me on a strengthening routine. I had this issue about 10 years ago and got a cortisone shot that really helped, so hoping for that as well.
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I am also not a doctor, but my understanding from personal experience is that it depends on the degree of tear (if you do have a tear). Microtears can be painful but will usually wear down eventually and stop catching; bigger ones require surgery. Small ones can get bigger if you aren't careful. A couple of years ago, I had something going on in the shoulder where I couldn't throw a baseball to my kids all summer. The next year it was fine. It didn't effect shooting a bow though.
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I didn't do myself any favors yesterday by finishing the tillering on this bow, shoulder is real sore this morning. Not the brightest bulb I guess...
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Thanks for all the help again, the stave is no longer off center! Needs a few more coats of finish, but it's all wrapped up. 66" n/n and 51# @28", right about where I wanted it to be. Wanted to knock down the red tone that hickory can give off, so I stained with a black aniline dye which actually made it kind of purple and then a nut-brown antique stain that I used on one of my flintlocks. The black calmed the red and brought out the figure in the wood. Unfortunately, my shoulder will not allow me to show a pic with it drawn, but I had my buddy draw it for me the other night and tiller looked real nice.
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Very nice work...Love the looks of a cambium stained hickory bow.