Primitive Archer
Main Discussion Area => Bows => Topic started by: Russ on March 27, 2022, 07:23:11 pm
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It’s been a whiiilllleee… I don’t trust my eye… but I have my hunches. What do you guys think?
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I don’t know why the last one is upside down… lol
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If it were me I’d start with scraping the inner 1/3rd of left limb and see where it’s at. Then see you may need to scrape a bit from the outer 1/3rd of same limb. Looking good so far. Best of luck with the build.
Cheers
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so just checking... when you say left limb... do you mean the left limb when its upside down? or the left limb when its right side up?
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Ok hopefully this fixes it
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this is what i see... i feel like it could bend more in that right area... but it could just look like that because the bow starts twisting.
the left might need to bend more but its also reflexed so i think its ok.
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Deer hunter. I mean left limb in pic of bow where back of the bow is facing the ceiling. It’s easier to see and get idea with right side up pic. I stand by my suggestion on that left limb. In the past when I’ve had one limb with more reflex (natural) I would still get it to where I wanted on the tiller tree so that it looks balanced full drawn. To me it dose t matter as much at rest what it looks like as it does at full draw when it’s at max stress. I believe it will be a more balanced bow on release as well. Other option is to make that your bottom limb and shoot it a bit at 1/2- 3/4 draw and then finally full draw to see how it feels in the hand. It may be like you say that it just looks this way due to the more reflex in the left limb. I made an iron wood bow last year that had the same thing going on as your bow here. I made that slightly stiffer limb the bottom limb and shot it a bunch. After about 150 arrows I noticed that the bow balanced itself out. No scrapes needed. Still shoots good. It also had a wicked twist with string favouring the right side with this stiffer limb at the bottom. Worked out well for that bow. Every piece of wood is different and getting what you want out of that wood is working with the natural twists and reflexes to your advantage sometimes. Best of luck
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I think, with these different profile of limbs, one deflex one reflex, it‘s a good tiller - both limbs are bending „equal“ - based on the profile.
Greetz
Cord
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The reason I prefer a symmetrical bow is it is easier to see proper tiller and especially for a newby bow builder. One other thing is to never pull a bow being tillered past good tiller, meaning if you are uncertain about the tiller don't pull it farther just to get a look at it. This can over strain the weaker limb and lead to hinges.
It looks to me that the outer limb in both limbs needs to bend more, especially the left. If the right limb is twisting when drawn that is a situation that should be remedied before you progress farther.
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Looks to me like the right limb is bending a lot in the inners and not much elsewhere. The left limb looks like it has a pretty nice even bend so far.
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I think the unbraced profile is from where we have to start.
The tiller can't look even on full draw because the shape of the limbs is not even.
To geht both limbs bending even would cause in a huge amount of wood removal and won't fit in the unbraced profile.
That's how I would deal with the bow.
Greetz
Cord
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just a little context on this bow. This was a finished bow that is for someone. I heat treated it and now I feel like the tiller is a off. The problem for me is that the tiller looks good and bad at the same time. I just don’t have tons of experience with bows shaped like this haha!
Also, the picture is 50 lbs at 26” which is 1” away from full draw
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ok, but that doesn't change my idea. Unbraced profile is uneven - if natural or from heat treating is not the point - full draw must fit to unbraced profile to get even stress on the limbs...
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Thanks bambule, I know. I was just giving some more context about the bow since I’m gonna post it once it’s finished
And superdav, I think this bow is a lot like the bow you’re talking about.
i think im going to work on the left outer first... then re-evaluate and probably work on the right outer then.
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Another thing you can go off is how it shoots. It is possible to feel if one limb is strong relative to the other. If it is way off the bow will tilt/pivot in the hand with the stronger limb being the one 'coming back'. If the limb strength is off just a little it will have a bit of a thump, if the tiller is off it is more shocky...very hard to describe this accurately as it is a feel thing. Once tiller shape and limb strength are perfect it will be 'dead in the hand'.
Of course watching any set and its position when it shows up is the woods way of talking to you. An easy way to keep track is to trace the backs side profile onto your tillering board or something before it has ever been bent. Then during tillering periodically hold the bow up to its original profile and see where it has changed. You want to follow the TBB 'mantra' of no set in the inner limbs, a little mid-limb and the rest out towards the tips. Set like this should be your goal as it indicates optimal wood strain/tiller.
These things are valuable tools when you get odd shaped limbs, one deflex/one reflexed etc...
The wood always talks to you along the way....but do you understand the language?!?! :)
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I agree on the unstrung uneven profile, lots of reflex in the left limb and almost none in the right.
I would take it back to the bending form you used and match the right limb to the left then start over with your tillering.
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Eric, I would if I had a bending form. This is all natural.
I’m sure I can get this to bend right without it being perfectly straight. I feel like it’s pretty close already.
this is for a trade too and im super low on staves, so i would really like it to work out if it can.
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I raised the brace height to 6”
What’s bugging me is I can see there is something wrong with the left limb, but I don’t know how to go about dealing with it.
I took some off the outer left and I’ll take some off of the right soon.
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You don't have to have a form, use a vise. Heat the left limb and tweak it in your vise with jaws loose and not clamped down on the limb. I do this often with static tips that wander off to the side and don't align with the string groove. I put the heated tip in the vise, give it a quick sideways push and check my progress, It takes several tweaks but I can get the alignment perfect this way. I usually take out any propeller in the tip as well as alignment that happened when I initially bent the static recurve.
In your case you need to work up and down the limb with little thrusts, hot wood bends really easily and doesn't need to cool in a form to hold the bend. Let you limb cool before you move to another position on the limb and only heat that place.
Your other option is to put your gizmo(assuming you have one) adjusted to the weak spot out from your fade on the right limb and remove wood from the left after you mark it with gizmo.
I don't recommend this method because you will end up with a kiddie bow after matching the limbs because they are so different.
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Deer hunter. Just had another thought about this bow and figured I should share. All of the suggestions are valid and it’s hard to know sometimes which direction to go based on folks looking at a few pictures. The thought I had as another option is to do another mild heat treatment on that right limb. Especially on the inners. It may stiffen things up for ya and balance out the bow. I recently had to do this on a hickory build where one limb took to the first round of heat treatment better then the other. Not sure if you’ve already done a heat treatment yet but it may solve it. Just another thing to consider.
Cheers.
Dave
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Pretty sure I got it tillered out to my likings for now! Minimal hand shock, and the set it’s taking is pretty even throughout and has mostly stopped now! Thanks for all the help guys!