Primitive Archer
Main Discussion Area => Bows => Topic started by: organic_archer on April 03, 2021, 11:51:05 am
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This osage stick had a little bit of character. Nothing too crazy, just a handful of wiggles and knots and a tiny bit of deflex throughout the inner 2/3 of the top limb. There's nothing out of the ordinary to mention about the build. It went really smoothly and shoots like a dream! Sometimes a piece just wants to become a bow. There's a 61# Hackberry Selfbow next to it in the group photos. Hope you all have an awesome weekend!
Osage Selfbow
64# at 28"
66" overall length
Buckskin grip
D97 Flemish string
(https://i.imgur.com/DdTZT1v.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/oZWvNXi.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/3tsROK7.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/881kSd6.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/jXOL0UO.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/nXy6rUJ.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/SiktChE.jpg)
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Nice work and my kind of bow (except I couldn't pull it).
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Nice rig. But no where to hang an arra from the stand. When leaves are gone, nocking am arra will gets dicey.
Looks asymmetrical or is it the knotty spot on bottom throwing me off? Elk killah right there.
Hedge~
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Nice bow!! Love the dips and wiggles in that character osage stick. Should make you an awesome hunting bow.
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Very nice work.
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Beautiful bows and tiller. Excellent stuff as always
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Beautiful - and that tiller looks textbook!
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Now that is a nice bow :) Sweet as a nut :)
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Really clean work and excellent balance on that full draw...Always enjoy looking at character bows...They are perfect in their own way and one of a kind... Don
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Good stuff, like always. Sure enjoy seeing your work. Thanks for posting.
Mike
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Outstanding! Nicely done. Jawge
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beautiful, congrats,, (-S
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Nice bow, your finish work is top!
Congrats!
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Very handsome bow :)
Del
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I just love the simplicity! Simple handle and no crazy profile... absolutely amazing :OK
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Thanks everyone! I appreciate the kind words. ;D
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Great work overall, superbe tiller (-S How do you make that grain pop out so clear on that osage? heat gun?
cheers
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Got to love that, beautiful work. :)
Pappy
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Beautiful work as always! I’m wondering if you can tell us more about your design process. It’s clear that you’ve nailed down a beautiful and effective design that you can produce successfully across multiple wood species. I’m curious how you treat each wood/bow differently to get low set and good draw weights. The bows look pretty consistent dimensionally. I think you’re doing something very right!
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Great work overall, superbe tiller (-S How do you make that grain pop out so clear on that osage? heat gun?
cheers
This one has a mild heat treatment that made it pop a little more than usual. It really depends on the tree too. Some have really cool looking ring separation, and some are a little harder to see.
Beautiful work as always! I’m wondering if you can tell us more about your design process. It’s clear that you’ve nailed down a beautiful and effective design that you can produce successfully across multiple wood species. I’m curious how you treat each wood/bow differently to get low set and good draw weights. The bows look pretty consistent dimensionally. I think you’re doing something very right!
I spent about 6-7 years fine-tuning something that had my own style and would work well with many wood species. Once I got it dialed in, I've rarely strayed from it over the last 2-3 years or so and it's never let me down!
I use the same design for almost every bow, unless there's some character that changes things. The only thing I really adjust for each species is the length, and slight adjustments in width. The modified pyramid taper of the limbs remains the same but the ratios can vary like 1/8" in both width and thickness tapers between different species.
26" Draw : Whitewood 64-66" - Osage 62-64"
27-28" Draw : Whitewood 66" - Osage 64-66"
29" Draw : Whitewood 68" - Osage 66-68"
30" Draw : Whitewood 70" - Osage 68"
Whitewoods : 2" wide at fades, no matter the species - 1.5" mid limb - 1/2" nocks
Osage : 1.5" wide at fades - 1.25" mid limb - 3/8" to 1/2" nocks
Always stiff-handled with a 4" handle section and 2" fade-outs for customer work and for my main hunting bows.
These are pretty close approximates but I do a lot of eyeballing after a blank is roughed out and during tillering to make sure everything has clean, fluid lines. I especially like long flowing lines in the handles and fades. No sharp angles. Lots of time spent holding it up into the light and running my fingers over it like a micrometer.
I try to make the outer 1/3's as light as I can go for a selfbow with double-cut nocks. They usually finish pretty narrow, and pretty thin. I just make sure I don't remove so much from the outers that they bend. I prefer the outer 1/3 to be remain somewhat stiff so they don't get whip-like. I'm always surprised how thin I can make them and still not get any bend, and that's really what brings the performance up in my opinion!
Anyway, I feel like it's a pretty basic design that meshes together many of the favorable characteristics I've read in the bow building books. I just put my own personal style on designs that have been tried-and-true for a long time! Hope this helps! ;D
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Great information thanks for taking time to post this
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I spent about 6-7 years fine-tuning something that had my own style and would work well with many wood species. Once I got it dialed in, I've rarely strayed from it over the last 2-3 years or so and it's never let me down!
I use the same design for almost every bow, unless there's some character that changes things. The only thing I really adjust for each species is the length, and slight adjustments in width. The modified pyramid taper of the limbs remains the same but the ratios can vary like 1/8" in both width and thickness tapers between different species.
26" Draw : Whitewood 64-66" - Osage 62-64"
27-28" Draw : Whitewood 66" - Osage 64-66"
29" Draw : Whitewood 68" - Osage 66-68"
30" Draw : Whitewood 70" - Osage 68"
Whitewoods : 2" wide at fades, no matter the species - 1.5" mid limb - 1/2" nocks
Osage : 1.5" wide at fades - 1.25" mid limb - 3/8" to 1/2" nocks
Always stiff-handled with a 4" handle section and 2" fade-outs for customer work and for my main hunting bows.
These are pretty close approximates but I do a lot of eyeballing after a blank is roughed out and during tillering to make sure everything has clean, fluid lines. I especially like long flowing lines in the handles and fades. No sharp angles. Lots of time spent holding it up into the light and running my fingers over it like a micrometer.
I try to make the outer 1/3's as light as I can go for a selfbow with double-cut nocks. They usually finish pretty narrow, and pretty thin. I just make sure I don't remove so much from the outers that they bend. I prefer the outer 1/3 to be remain somewhat stiff so they don't get whip-like. I'm always surprised how thin I can make them and still not get any bend, and that's really what brings the performance up in my opinion!
Anyway, I feel like it's a pretty basic design that meshes together many of the favorable characteristics I've read in the bow building books. I just put my own personal style on designs that have been tried-and-true for a long time! Hope this helps! ;D
I really appreciate the thorough response. That makes a lot of sense. I guess it depends on how you take your orders but it seems like those design parameters would easily accommodate a wide range of draw weights for your market and make it easily repeatable. Basic is one way to put it. Meticulous seems a better fit. ;D
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Keep 'em coming Correy! Beautiful work again.
Jaap