Primitive Archer
Main Discussion Area => Bows => Topic started by: Piddler on October 26, 2020, 05:54:35 pm
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Fellas,
I have never worked Hickory and need some advice. Should I go down to the darker rings or just start under the cambium.
Thanks in advance.
Piddler
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Use what's under the bark if you can easily access it. What time of year was it cut? If summer you might be able to peel the bark off in one piece, if not then you'll need a draw knife and some elbow grease. :BB
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I would use what's right under the bark, those are two good rings right at the top
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I used the bark off back as is. Added a "Meare Heath" style rawhide wrap.
Hawkdancer
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Thanks for the replies fellas. Just under the bark it is.
Pat it is an old stave so no peeling this one without any elbow grease. I actually have the bark off, except for a dip in it, and working on the cambium layer.
Allyn T, Yes the first two seem good but my first with hickory so thanks for the input.
Hawkdancer, I'll have to check into the Meare Heath style wrap. Not familiar with it.
Probably have some more questions later on but for now thanks again.
Piddler
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where you are located has a HUGE amount of influence on how to treat hickory... first off use back under bark no need to chase a ring.. if out west get to at minimum under 12% or it will take set 9 % is better but not under 8% too dry...... if in South or anywhere with high humidity it is a challenge...will not get below 15% outside no matter how long it sits... must be roughed out and put in controlled climate for at least 6 months.. getting hickory dry enough before tilling is critical to making hickory as good as osage.... it is much lighter in hand than osage and every bit as fast when done right...gut
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Just out of curiosity does anyone know why Hickory is so hygroscopic? Must be some chemical responsible.
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good question that I have no answer for... I know bamboo is pretty much the same way... pecan too I would imagine... however I have yet to fool with pecan... gut
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I did a google search but got no joy.
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I've never seen any concrete evidence that Hickory is actually more hydroscopic than other wood species. When looking up numbers on wood movement compared to other commonly used bow woods, hickory has more movement than other woods at higher moisture levels so that might have something to do with it.
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having worked hickory numerous times I can firmly stand by it is just a sponge when it comes to moisture... and it will take set easily above 12% ... when below 12% not below 8% it is as good as osage. IMO...it will not get below 15% no matter how long it sits outside in the south..I have had roughed out bows sit in barn for over 8 years and not drop below 15 %.. dang bugs got to them before they would get dry... all my hickory bows spent at least 6 months in a heated closet space... gut
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having worked hickory numerous times I can firmly stand by it is just a sponge when it comes to moisture... and it will take set easily above 12% ... when below 12% not below 8% it is as good as osage. IMO...it will not get below 15% no matter how long it sits outside in the south..I have had roughed out bows sit in barn for over 8 years and not drop below 15 %.. dang bugs got to them before they would get dry... all my hickory bows spent at least 6 months in a heated closet space... gut
What do you use to seal your hickory bows and how do you keep them dry for years after finished
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Allyn T watch Keith Shannon on utube on fire hardening white woods, and listen to his claims. You may want to give that a shot. I have 2 Hickory green bows on forms right now to experiment with fire hardening using his method. It is raining , but when we get some dry weather I am going to fire harden those 2. I have tried Walnut ,and Elm so far, but can make no real claims yet.
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Allyn T watch Keith Shannon on utube on fire hardening white woods, and listen to his claims. You may want to give that a shot. I have 2 Hickory green bows on forms right now to experiment with fire hardening using his method. It is raining , but when we get some dry weather I am going to fire harden those 2. I have tried Walnut ,and Elm so far, but can make no real claims yet.
Wasn't there a big uproar on here a few years ago about this? People were saying it was just like Marc's heat treating method? I'll check out the video.
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That was a cool video, I can't believe how fast they made that bow. Dear lord you can tell when someone knows what they are doing
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first off when fire hardening or heat treating hickory it better be good and dry or will check incredibly bad... every time I work my hickory bows they go back in closet .. till done.. after final tillering and shoot in... I seal with a spray varathene .. after sealed its done.. I can take it out and hunt whatever... all my bows are stored in my basement .till I decide to use one... when sealing anything you have to leave at least one side raw... so it can breathe..(ex. when sealing a stave you seal both ends and back.. you leave belly raw).. at least till completed.. and down to the moisture content you are after then you can seal it completely... it then shouldn't gain or lose any moisture... if sealed properly... gut.
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Thank you gut
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Some good info guys.
Gut I will use the parameters as suggested. I am in Oklahoma which is pretty wet right now. I did watch the video of the guy making one in three days. This stave is a seasoned stave but still has a pretty high moisture content. I will work it down to rough measurements and get it dry to the specs mentioned. Kind of looking forward to a new type of wood I haven't worked before. Work is getting in the way a bit though.
Piddler
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get it dry enough.. 1 1/2 wide to mid limb taper to 1/2 to 3/8 nocks.. recurve or flip tips... no need to sinew.. sinew and hickory are not a good combo... no need to back period... you will love this wood... I do.. and its a pain but it is worth it. .. gut
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Thanks for all the info Gut and the rest of you guys. Ill keep you posted.