Primitive Archer
Main Discussion Area => Bows => Topic started by: BoisBrule on October 05, 2020, 10:11:28 am
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Forgive me, I'm a rank noob at making bows.
This is a red oak pyramid bow, 58" from nock to nock (was longer, but an early mistake led to removing a few inches). I've backed it with one layer linen and TBII. It's only half tillered, currently about 35 pounds at 16", I'm shooting for around 40 at 28". I've got a long way to go.
The right limb is the lower limb, and if you look closely, you can see that it's twisting slightly toward the camera. Looking at it from the end confirms this.
Now, my gut says this is due to scraping the limb with uneven pressure on the scraper, and it's twisting towards the "stronger" edge of the limb. Before I go taking anything more off, though, I just wanted to ask for advice.
Thank you.
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Have you read this
https://www.primitivearcher.com/smf/index.php/topic,27206.0.html
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I have not. Didn't even see it up there. Thank you.
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I have actually had very little luck trying to tiller out twist. I think you have to be sure it is actually a side to side thickness problem. Make sure of that before you start scraping or you will just be wasting time and wood. Most of my twisting problems have been string alignment problems.
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When braced, the string seems to be centered along the limbs, the nocks appear evenly cut. So you're saying that limb may be... off to the side a bit? The way to fix that would be trim the opposing edge of the limb, opposite the twist, then?
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Like I said, I've had very little luck with this so I don't want to give you bad advice. I usually use heat to twist them in the opposite direction, if you can follow that.
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Appreciated. Thank you.
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Check the thickness from one side of the limb to the other on the twisting limb. If the limb is flat when relaxed but twisted under strain then your limbs are probably uneven in thickness from side to side.
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Check the thickness from one side of the limb to the other on the twisting limb. If the limb is flat when relaxed but twisted under strain then your limbs are probably uneven in thickness from side to side.
So if the limb is twisted as it lays flat it's probably twist from the tree itself?
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Yes.
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Side note. Your fades could be longer,and more gradual.
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It will twist towards the weak side sore move wood from the other side. Just a few passes at a time and exercise at short pulls 10 or so times. Jawge
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Looks like a natural twist since it appears to start right at the fade. Just me, but I'd bulbous that handle so that the bow would bend a little more for the draw length you're asking from it....Art
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I haven't even begin shaping the fades or the handle yet. I should get to that before proceeding, then?
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Del has an excellent video about limb twist and propellor twist and how to deal with each. https://youtu.be/RT1gSNyuP0w
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You should be working your fades into the limbs as you tiller. Reshaping later in the process can change tiller and draw weight.
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2x
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At 58" you are gonna have to maximize your working limbs for a 28" draw, that means making your handle as small as possible
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that handle looks really long... mine are 4 " with 1 1/2 fades. 7" total... I tend to build short bows also... so I try to get as much working limbs I can... start to work right out of fade...but not too much.. as for twist.. sometimes they don't affect your bow..I also trashed the tiller stick for a tiller tree cable set up.. ...can reduce so much unnecessary stress and set while tillering .. you can take a quick pic and attack then...... gut
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The handle is 8"from start of fade , to start of fade. fade are 2".
I'll start working on them ASAP, before any more work on the limbs... just gotta find time, between work, getting the 'stead ready for winter, and running after a 9 month old.
Thank you all for the advice, and taking time to put up with my questions...it's appreciated.