Primitive Archer
Main Discussion Area => English Warbow => Topic started by: african man on April 23, 2008, 08:07:29 am
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I am wanting to make a war bow 70-80# @ 32"
I have a nice stave of black locust and am wondering if it will work as an English war bow, if so what are the rough dimensions. Could I also change the design slightly to accommodate the wood, lenticular or flatter cross section instead of D shaped ?
Thanks
Chris
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Hi...i dont have verry much experience with warr bow....but i now that black locust its weack in compresion,. so i think that an Elb design its not the best design for this type of wood....but maybe im wrong...so you should see whatt others have to say aboute this///
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there was a post on paleoplanet a while ago. A big bad Bl warbow drawing around 100lb, and no frets!
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Thanks guys ;)
have started one will see how it goes
Chris
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Just finished it the other day seems to work ;D
Just made it a bit more flatter than a traditional D section
Chris
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Is that bow still alive and how's it shoot ? Frank
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If african man allows it I will answer in his place.
The bow is still alive, 84#@30".
Black Locust can definitely make a warbow.
Tom
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Thanks Tom (how's your new Ebay stave doing)
Yes my bow is doing well, I think due to the fact that I gave her a flat belly. I'm going to make two more war bows out of B.L, one will be a full D limb and one will be half way between a D limb and what I made now, I will then know what B.L can take
The spec :- 76" ntn 1 1/2" at handle tapering to 1/2" at tips started with 2 1/4" reflex, now + - 1/2" reflex(http://i278.photobucket.com/albums/kk87/africanman2/war%20bow/DSCN0798.jpg)(http://i278.photobucket.com/albums/kk87/africanman2/war%20bow/DSCN0794.jpg)
(http://i278.photobucket.com/albums/kk87/africanman2/war%20bow/DSCN0795.jpg)
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suberb bow! very nice tiller :)
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HI....verry nice bow and nice tiller.....this is the proof that you have to try it for your self first ,and see what happens....im verry curiose what will happent with a true D section....aniway you did a gr8 job,
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My hat is off to you sir. Both Locust bows I tried to build have failed. I still have 2 or 3 staves, and with your success I will try again.
You have done a very nice job there. Congratulations.
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Thanks majsnuff
I think some of the success was due to the flattened belly and also I think something to do with where the tree grew??? I have heard said that the growing conditions play a part in how the wood will react
Still busy with the other two bows, slowly, as I have an Ash war bow and a few others on the go at the moment
GOOD LUCK
Xris
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That bow looks nice, Do you know if cherry is good warbow stuff, i have some and all i know is it is good in compression but not so good in tension.
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Africa Man,
What poundage did it end up?
Did you chase a growth ring or leave the sapwood on?
Nice tiller.
Mark in England
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Bowbound - I think cherry will work maybe flatten the belly a bit and back it with hicory or raw hide
Mark - landed up at just over 80#, I didn't leave any sap wood on but went down about three layers into the hart wood as it was a nice thick ring. I have found that if you leave sapwood on it seems to make the bow a bit sluggish :-\
Xris ;D
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nice bow mate. But wouldnt it be faster minus the horntips, and isnt Black Locust hard enough not to need them?
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Anyone ever try black locust as a backing ?
Ralph
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I plan to, but I still need to wait a month or so for it to dry.
Daniel
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nice bow mate. But wouldnt it be faster minus the horntips, and isnt Black Locust hard enough not to need them?
Yes it would be faster with out the horn tips and less hand shock, but I want it to look traditional ::)
Anyone ever try black locust as a backing ?
Ralph
Haven't tried it but I suspect it will work (can't beat Hickory though )
Chris
PS have been making quite a few laminated war bows out of our indigenous woods and have had some good results, my other B.L war bow is still waiting to be finished :-\